*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: The longest sentence in the English language: "I do."
The Pursuit 2550 WAC has a very large compartment in the rear deck ahead of the splash-well. It is currently not rigged as a live well although it was an option. The bottom of the compartment already has a through hull fitting with a small (about 1" diameter) opening with a screw-in plug.
I have a livewell pump (in place with a through-hull fitting, it used to be plumbed to a free-standing above deck live well, long removed) and would like to drill a hole in the side of the compartment for the inflow and make a pipe with a screen to screw into the bottom of the compartment for the outflow.
Is there a ratio for the size of the in and outflows that I should follow? Also, rather than just having water pump into the compartment, should it be a perforated PVC tube?
Simply run one inch reinforced tubing between the thru-hull and the pump and again with one inch between the pump and the tank. Just let the water jet in, the pump aerates it as it draws it in.
In the bottom where that drain is. I would put a ball valve in that line so you can close it to keep water in and open it to drain at the end of the day.
Install a thru hull with screen about 8/10 from the top for your overflow. Those stand pipe drains are a PITA. They fall out and your baits die,
Yes I know most boat manafctures use a standpipe. That doesn't make it right.
In the pix below you can see the drain at the bottom. It has a ball valve inline. You can see where the water comes in.
You can't see the overflow line. It's higher up and tucked away under the left hand side.
I can't do like you say. The drain at the bototm of the livewell is actually a through hull to the bottom of the hull. The compartmentis under the deck and most of it is below the water line. There would be little or no way to plumb the drain to go through a thru-hull and actually drain rather than fill. I have no choice but to use a stand-pipe.
On the other hand, my other question was answered. The pump will aerate the water for me. What do I put over the full tube to prevent small baits and scales from entering? Are there specific desigsns?
I disagree that the pump will aerate. If you are picking up water below the surface and discharging it below the surface in the live well, just where will this air be introduced into the system? Some makers claim that spraying the inflow onto the surface of the livewell aerates. but those bubbles sit right on the top. If you are constantly pumping fresh water into the livewell, aeration is less important. But, if you are re-circulating, you need an air pump to introduce bubbles from the bottom up.
I would suggest that you leave the fitting at the botton of the tank for its intended use as a drain, and use a snap down rubber stopper to plug it while it is being used as a livewell.
I would then buy the Kodiak Livewell Kit that includes the 3/4" venturri side wall adapter for inlet water and 1.5" screened side wall drain adapter with hoses, then drill and plum both of these fittings through the side of your compartment, as described on the same web site. I think this will set you back about $15 plus shipping, assuming that you have the $30 - 750 gph pump.
Just spray the water in a inch or 2 above the water level, and you will maintain 95% of the possible dissolved oxygen in you tank. Bubbles on the top of the water have nothing to do with available oxygen where the fish swim. Forget about the standpipe as you will get near perfect circulation without it it, and it will always be in the way when trying to net out fast swimmers in your tank.
I used to raise millions of salmon a year, and have constructed many fish hatcheries. The info on the Kodiak web site is correct and complete. Use it as your guide.
Very good site. I am just not sure that I can rig it any other way than with a standing drain pipe due to the location of the tank under the deck. Only the top 6 inches are above the water level (ocean), so the drain will not have enough of a downward direction to actually drain the tank. In fact, water may even come in through the drain if the boat rocks.
I e-mailed Kodiak with my concerns...waiting for their reply.
Scott
The rocking of the boat will not let water back into the livewell as its water level will always be higher than sea level when operating. This is the case whether you drain from the side or the bottom, rocking or not.
The livewell drain does not have to flow at a contant speed, but should be 2 times the diameter, or 4 times the effictive area, of the pressurize inlet hose, to keep up as it surges, and the keep down the velocity of the water so that it does not side suck and hold your bait healthy bait against plastic grating that also keeps the fish from escaping out the hose.
Weak or dead baits will sink to the bottom preventing this grate from clogging in its side wall position, and can be fished out easily when sppotted. Hope this helps in case Kodiak is slow to respond.
I have a 1998 boat and have always used a standing drain pipe. I have had zero problems with the pipe coming loose and killing bait. I also fish a lot with live bait. Dont be affraid of the stand up pipe, just be sure you have a tight fit...Good Luck
__________________ "I'm suing the THT and the guy that made it."