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Random Quote: you have to fish where they live...and be present to win.
In researching for a new boat I am confused by all the talk on deadrise.
I am about to put a deposit on a SeaPro 220cc with a dead rise of 18 degrees.
I understand that the greater the deadrise the less the boat rolls but what is the ideal
deadrise. It seems that everyboat is different some as little as 15 degrees and some as geat as 24 degrees or more. What is to little and what is to much? How important is deadrise in the real sense? How much can you tell difference? Can one degree change be felt?
Thanks
New guy new boat
Actually you have it backwards, the larger the deadrise angle the more the boat will roll while at rest. However, the sharper angle also cuts the waves better and generally provides a smoother ride in rough seas. (these are of course generalities).
If you plan on going offshore then you would probably want a minimum of around 15-18 deg. Less than that and you are going to get slammed pretty good when it gets rough. You will get alot of opinions on what is acceptable, always drive the boat in the conditions in which you plan to use it. You make think a boat handles rough water fine, where as I (with screws in my lower ****** might have to carry myself to the car after getting out. Everyone's tolerance is different. Good luck. PM
__________________ At least when Texans retire to Florida we don't wear black socks with our sandals!
the greater the deadrise the better (less pounding) the boat will ride through waves. the less the deadrise the more stable at rest (less rocking) and less fuel consumption. if you want to go fast in the open ocean you should consider a boat with more deadrise. if you cuise in more protected waters ie bays, lakes ect. you can go with less deadrise.
Another thing to remember is that deadrise at the transom (which you're talking about) is only one small part of hull design. All of the above statements about transom deadrise are true as generalities -- but can be shown to be false in specific applications on specific boats. Hull design is an art as well as a science, IMHO. If you ask a specific question about a specific hull design in a specific body of water you'll probably get a response from another THT member who has applicable experience. That's worth a lot more than brochure data.
I had a 21' cc with an 18 degree deadrise and it would beat your brains in. If you want to pick your nuts off the deck in the evening after a days fishing offshore go with a lower deadrise. I agree that deadrise is not the only factor but it is damn important. 18 degrees is considered a modified V hull. Deep V starts at 22 degrees I believe. Test ride and let it rip. IMHO I would rather have a boat be a little tender on the side than pounding wave after wave.
Keep a low deadrise boat with a sharp entry in the water and your fine. Take for instance my Baybolt. A 23 ft. hull with 14 degrees deadrise. Weighs 3400 lbs. dry.
With the use of tabs you keep the bow down and don't run fast enough to come off the waves. Granted it's not an offshore boat, but does quite well in the rough stuff considering its weight and hull design. Offshore boats with more deadrise(22 and up) are designed to run at speed offshore, relying on the sharper stern for a soft landing or"reentry". Where I'm making 20 mph comfortably, a good offshore hull is making 40 mph comfortably, literally flying through the seas.
__________________ Tommy D Hydra 2300 Baybolt E200
18 degrees and up is the starting point for small offshore mono hulls 19' and longer, but many test rides are in your future if you want to find something that really fits your liking.
So many other factors such as length, width, weight, weight distribution in the hull, bow entry angle, cruising and trolling speeds, forward-rear-high or low seating placement, mono or catamaran styles all combine to make this calculation less than predictable, so experience is your only true guide. When you narrow it down to 2 hulls, its great to test side by side to really see who can can go fast and drink coffee, and who is wearing their's.
Mick-
I had a TV 19 for a while. Great boat!Didn't you make the crossing to Bimini
in your TV 19? What was the stream like that day? I had mine in way over my head a few times(no pun intended). Folks around here seem to like to make me look like a jackass when I talk about small boats and rough water. Act like they've never been caught out?
__________________ Tommy D Hydra 2300 Baybolt E200
Honestly if your using the boat for fishing and less than 10 miles out you don't need much deadrise unless you make a lot of runs to different spots. Once your in a fishing spot the less deadrise the better. Also consider draft, less deadrise less draft. I have about 5 degrees deadrise on my hull and fish chesepeake, delaware, and of of NJ coast 10 miles. Very sharp deep bow gives me a smooth ride to about 18mph in the worst chop you would go out in, when I stop and start fishing it is extremely stable.
No one mentioned the angle of entry-----AKA forefoot of the hull. Look at where the bow of the boat will be taking the seas. The "sharper" the entry the softer it will ride in a chop. Provided that you can keep that part of the hull slicing the waves. When you see a hull from the front that looks wide and flat you will generally get a pounding ride in waves. Then look at a downeast lobster boat with say 5-10 degrees of transome deadrise but a knifelike entry--that will be one soft riding hull. But not too fast. JM2C
Deadrise 
Weighs 3400 lbs. dry. 
