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Quote:
Originally Posted by itwonder
...the problem is not the cooling system. ..
... the only other viable cause of overheating is an internal defect.
Turbulence or aerated water entering the inlet screens to the water pump has not been tested for or ruled out yet.
That is why the clear hose test is mentioned here often, to find out if there is air in the cooling system, when it starts, and how it develops, along with the water pressures at various rpms. The factory has a chart to show what the minimum pressures should be. It is a great help in troubleshooting temperature problems.
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I'm starting to lean more toward Cummins-Detroit-Catapiller-Man (Yanmar/Volvo? not yet anyway). I sure hope they straighten this out. I'm all for American Made motors, and it looked and sounded like Evinrude had finally come up with a winner and backed it up with new powerheads whenever there was a problem. If that extended warranty isn't worth anything then I ain't buying it. I had a minor overheat problem at low RPM (like 950-1000 on my analog tach) when trolling/crusing in gear with my new 2009 250HP E-Tec but they kept after it and it seems solved now. Overall I think it's a fantastic motor, as long as they take care of it as they should. I wonder if diesel owners go through the same BS to try to get something fixed when under warranty, extended or otherwise?
From a troubleshooting perspective (I do it a lot on computer networks), if you can eliminate something for sure, it's time to move one to the next. It truly sounds like you have eliminated anything on the cooling water flow aspect. I'll be watching this thread as I'm on the dge of my seat to know what the problem is and it's not even my boat. I am about to get a new boat with a 115 ETec. I have a buddy with a 150 a year old with zero issues.
This also sounds like a pretty rare occurence....but it also sounds like you'd need to
have a set of water lines for the engine where each one has a T and pressure sensor on it where you could see the pressure....maybe even a pressue and temp sensor. But then it might be a lot to put together for a one time use. A short piece of clear hose on a T would work as well as you could hold it down until full of water, then hold it up and if there are bubbles in the flow they would fill the tube with air. From a purely troubleshooting standpoint, you have to be able to positively elimiate something and move on. I think if you eliminate bubble in the water flow as previously mentioned you can check off cooling water flow. After reading every thing that's been done my gut says "somethin' else", but what do I know....
Is there a possiblity that exhaust gas is escaping through a water jacked in one of the heads? I'm thinking a cracked head could be the culprit here. Just a thought after thinking of all that has been done.
I was a mechanic for 15 years and did mostly diagnostics on issues that were hard to pinpoint. Granted my experience is in auto however I also understand the basics behind 2 strokes.
Just a guess here
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Another info question is how low are they engines mounted?? If not in the lowest hole you could always drop the motors as low as possible......not optimal but it should certainly put the intakes into clean water. You didn't say if your boat was a CC or WAC/express. I have a friend with the express and it tends to ride bow high which could let the hull interfere with water flow.
Just throwing out ideas.....but the fact that you had 300+ trouble free hours points to something else. That's about it for my brain work on this one.....
boat has arrived @ dealer # 3, who was highly refered 6 different ways. i know the heads were removed and inspected, no cracks were found, so i assume exhast into cooling has been eliminated as a suspect.
i dont know enough about it to guess where to look next. will post a status as soon as i hear from the techs.
For what it is worth. I had a 2001 Ficht-( junk motor for me) My engine started shutting down at mid rpm's. No lights, no horn--that turned out to be a faulty ECM. Nothing that $1,500. didn't fix. I hope that is not your problem. Good luck.
I think what seahorse has been saying with the clear tube to see the air bubbles (if they occur) is the last litmus test for the cooling system?
That would rule out hull interference, honestly, I can't see that as being the cause, because the ficht didn't have this problem, nor did these for 350 hours....this has to be something that was done during the service, or possibly an oil related issue, which could cause overheat....was there a difference in oil consumption per engine lately?.. I'm an etec fan, have twin 250's, but I'm afraid this would really piss me off.....BRP is obviously cutting back, like yamaha is....there was a time that both manufacturers would step up to the plate to make sure the customer is being treated fairly, BRP would send a fully dressed head (now I know this is a 3rd party warranty, but when is enough enough?)....and Yamaha is failing their clients with the F200-225 debacle...which could be huge.....Sad what a recession can do....I really hate to see this happen to people....you spend alot of money on these engines.....like I said, I blame the epa though....these engines are designed with such tight tolerances to meet the epa compliances....one wrong thing.....anyways, keep us informed.
Have you considered mounting a 30 inch lower unit on it and see if that helps. Also have you on any occasion test run it and it didn't overheat, but the problem comes back?
I'm beginning to think we have similar problems, but mine comes and goes. I'm starting to think removing and reinstalling lower unit fixes it temporarily because it will go away, but can come back weeks after. Also I'm staring to think it may run cooler at higher speeds/rpm. Not completely convinced on that one yet.
Yamaha or any other manufacture has nothing to do with this persons issue, so why mention them?? I really would appreciate if you would pass the BPR pipe that you must be puffing on as it must be top notch to be spewing such blatant krap. I honestly feel sorry for the person with the issues, but your lame attempts to explain them is quite...
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridarob
I think what seahorse has been saying with the clear tube to see the air bubbles (if they occur) is the last litmus test for the cooling system?
That would rule out hull interference, honestly, I can't see that as being the cause, because the ficht didn't have this problem, nor did these for 350 hours....this has to be something that was done during the service, or possibly an oil related issue, which could cause overheat....was there a difference in oil consumption per engine lately?.. I'm an etec fan, have twin 250's, but I'm afraid this would really piss me off.....BRP is obviously cutting back, like yamaha is....there was a time that both manufacturers would step up to the plate to make sure the customer is being treated fairly, BRP would send a fully dressed head (now I know this is a 3rd party warranty, but when is enough enough?)....and Yamaha is failing their clients with the F200-225 debacle...which could be huge.....Sad what a recession can do....I really hate to see this happen to people....you spend alot of money on these engines.....like I said, I blame the epa though....these engines are designed with such tight tolerances to meet the epa compliances....one wrong thing.....anyways, keep us informed.
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May be off base here. My 2001 Ficht (I know, different motor) kept shutting down at mid range rpms. After a few tries, mechanic determined bad ECM. Nothing that $1,500. could not fix.
Just a thought here, you can eliminate the water pump and pick up and all lower plumbing by simply swapping the lower units and going for a ride. Swap the lowers and props. The handles will shift backwards but who cares. Its one boat ride and will tell you for sure 100% if the issue is in the power head or water delivery system.
Hasnt anyone done this yet?
Good luck
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