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I understand your frustration, and you added a lot of important information to the discussion that should help.
Is this motor in the serial number range that needs the air bleed hole drilled into the thermostat housing?
If you are sure it is getting air in the cooling water at high speed, you may be on the right track with a corroded water tube. I haven't seen the problem myself but others have mentioned it.
Is the new gearcase a genuine Evinrude one or an aftermarket type like SEI or GLM make?
Run the clear hose water test and see exactly when the bubbles appear. Usually if they appear just on plane, the problem is in the water pump housing, gaskets, orings, etc. as it is then above the water line.
If you decide to try the 7# blow-off valve spring, you will also have to order a plunger for it as the parts are different from the 10# spring.
Does the water pressure on the gauge at various rpms read the same as the factory chart psi whose link I posted earlier?
What revision number is the software?
Hope this helps, and good luck to you.
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*... personally possessing more tools than talent !
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Great to hear from the mechanic, smart people on here but usually can't get enough good info - he was very good. The ait is not caused by the lower pressure spring, it just would open at lower RPM to allow free flow - they are designed to keep the motor warm enough at idle.
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The Boaters Mortgage guy
1976 SeaCraft 20 Master Angler/200 Merc XRi
[quote=slayride;2484482]2006 225 evirude etecs on 28ft hydrasport- 375 hrs - overheat problems with port engine @ planning speed. over 60 days @ certified evinrude mechanics shop !!!! - they have tried EVERYTHING !!! changed water pump and housing 2 times, removed transom mounted transducers, installed "scoops" on intakes, new lower temp thermostats, removed powerhead to look for blockage, removed heads to look for blockage, removed "low speed diaphram" on top of emm, adjusted engine "toe", and swapped lower units, (port engine still ran hot, but did not go into overheat shutdown, i had them put the lower units back as evinrude designed them, overheat immediatly came ******.
boat runs @ normal temp @ idle and slow speeds, 1 minutes into planning speeds (less than 1 mile on plane), the overheat alarm goes off and the engine goes into "safe mode" and slows down by itself. after idling for 2 minutes, the motor has colled down, and the process can be repeated - every time.
there have been a variety of other evinrude issues crop up, and get resolved during the 60 days - these all with port engine (the one overheating): bad shifter part in lower unit, blown gears in lower unit, adjust shift cable, blown prop hub, replace coroded thermostats, replace neutral saftey switch. then, in the stbd engine we had a bad computer, bad oil pump, and a "missing" gasket - that caused 4 prop hubs to blow.
for some reason, i dont think this is normal? or is it? i can tell you first hand that evinrude, and the extended warranty company could both care less about the issues.
the problems are not the mechanics shop, as this work has been split between 2 shops !!!! with the second redoing some of the work by the first shop.
if there is someone out there that could help with some advise, i could use some.[/QUOT
My best friend has twin 250 e-tec having the exact problem with over heating we have tried everything I'm at the point of repowering my boat and have decided not to repower with E-tec we are hard core fisherman and we been out of the water for over a month. I'm moving to Mercury Verado's. Good luck
mojo rider - what year are your engines? what kind of boat? is a certified shop doing the work for you?
i feel your pain. my boat is 60 days @ this shop, (but we are making good progress, and getting rid of my boat has been their top priority) 30 days @ previous shop, and 3 or 4 trips with blown prop hubs before that. have not had a good day on the water (in my boat) since january of this year.
we had to spend $1800 to rent a boat in the keys this year for the family lobster/fishing trip. the boat had twin 250 verados, the were very impressive.
i feel your pain !!! check back, big party when we figure this one out !!!
The reason im not pointing at the pressure relief valve is because i took it out of the equasion, i removed it with the same overheat results, the boat would be a fantastic drag racing boat, it runs a mile like a bat out of hell then overheats, the gearcase is a standard genuine M type gearcase.
I find the fuel flow issue curious, if there is a restriction or it is sucking air the scan might be mesuring bubbles and engine running lean. Just another wild guess.
Water tube is kinked 1/3 of the way up, more then half kinked. Plenty of carbon build up at area of kinking, Im 110% sure it was when the water pumps were put on by previous dealer because a new kink would be shiney and fresh looking, this kink is black. score 1,000,000,000 Away team 1 for the home team.
This is why when people have to repower, and they have their choice between 3 or 4 engines, I say servicing dealer is more than 50% of the equation......God, I hope that's the problem and this guy can get back out on the water and enjoy his boat.
So, does the third party warranty company have any recourse against the first service dealer?
I would think the claim would be denied due to incompetency.
I know everyone will expect BRP to talk to the other dealer, but I see this with all engine manufacturer's....choose your dealer and service department carefully.....
Those tubes arent strong, thin copper, Most dealerships dont have guys that are certified, or they have so much business the certified guy gets focused on major repairs and not water pumps, the assumption is that water pumps are easy, the case is they arent, alot can go wrong with installing one, for instance the Evinrude water pump kit is designed for models as far back as the mid 90s or farther so it has several pieces that the unqualified guy wouldnt know a 20, 25,30 model wouldnt need.
That is the one thing with diagnostic work, not everything is quick and easy to find. You have to check the basics first, then go digging if the obvious things are taken care of. Good call with pulling things down to inspect, Outboardkiller.
Because the overheating started after the other dealer replaced water pumps, there is your "smoking gun"
Was the water pressure for that motor lower than the other one at the same speed?
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*... personally possessing more tools than talent !
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Those tubes arent strong, thin copper, Most dealerships dont have guys that are certified, or they have so much business the certified guy gets focused on major repairs and not water pumps, the assumption is that water pumps are easy, the case is they arent, alot can go wrong with installing one, for instance the Evinrude water pump kit is designed for models as far back as the mid 90s or farther so it has several pieces that the unqualified guy wouldnt know a 20, 25,30 model wouldnt need.
Interesting, and I'm concerned. If BRP can't design their product for easy serviceability, then why should I buy another one?
i went to the shop today to look @ the engine in pieces all over the place. copper tube was definitly damaged, kinked on both sides, like the tube had been rocked from side to side, as the lower unit was being installed. the end of the tube that mates with the lower unit was also terribly "chewed up". obviously damaged from improper installation. it even looks chewed up enough that maybe this is where air can get into the system? but how would air enter the pressurized side of the cooling system? below is pic of the lower end of the tube, and a pic of where the tube kink would be in relation to the lower unit when everything is installed.
in my mechanics defense, there is no way to see the kink unless the tube is removed from the mid housing portion of the engine. i tried to look into the tube with a flash light, and could not see anything on the inside.
anyone know if the kink would cause enough of a restriction? and would the chewed end allow air into the system?
attached are pics of the current water pump installation. it looks good to me, but i dont work on engines for a living. there were no gaps on the suction side that i could see. anyone see any issues?
unit installation?
