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This is another pic of shoddy workmanship. Deep inside the etec engine "mid housing" is this plate. The plate has something to do with exhaust gasses on the way out, and cooling water on the way in. in the pic you can see where Certified Evinrude Dealer # 2 mechanic had broken off the bolts. There is some sort of plate attached to those bolts that diverts cooling water into the power head. The broken off bolts were left as you see them, with the required plate hanging by only 2 bolts. The entire engine was disassembled multiple times, looking for the cooling issue, which turned out to be an improperly installed water pump!!!! So when Evinrude Certified Dealer # 2 reassembled the engine, they left this obvious piece of poor workmanship behind. What you cannot see is the many MISSING nuts - bolts and washers that needed to be purchased from Evinrude, and installed, as they were completely missing!!!
This problem was discovered and rectified (at my expense, of course) by Rick @ precision out board in Delray Beach (who I strongly recommend to everyone!!!) Rick was involved with checking over and "re-doing" all of the crappy work done by Evinrude Factory Certified Dealer # 2.
After some shady troubleshooting from different Miami certified tech/dealers I drive all the way over to Delray, the 2 times I had problems with my E-tecs. Rick was unbelievable fast and reliable. He knows his $hit...
Highly recommend him too.
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After some shady troubleshooting from different Miami certified tech/dealers I drive all the way over to Delray, the 2 times I had problems with my E-tecs. Rick was unbelievable fast and reliable. He knows his $hit...
Highly recommend him too.
After some shady troubleshooting from different Miami certified tech/dealers I drive all the way over to Delray, the 2 times I had problems with my E-tecs. Rick was unbelievable fast and reliable. He knows his $hit...
Highly recommend him too.
PM Sent.
__________________ 1999 Hydra-Sports 230CC, 2009 E-Tec 250 HP
The photos below show the cause of engine overheat.
We have an oring that was crimped from not being properly installed, along with a grommet that got twisted when the lower unit was installed on the engine. The combination of water pump sucking air and twisted grommet blocking water pump output were the true cause of the etec overheat issues.
Evinrude Authorized Dealer # 2 installed new water pumps on both engines, then the overheat issue started. This Evinrude Authorized Dealer took the entire engine apart 2 times looking for blockage, replaced the water tube in the mid housing, had me remove 2 transom mounted transducers, and installed "scoops" for better water intake. The poppet valves were removed, then reinstalled, wire brush to clean all engine mounted hoses, bla bla bla....... everything anyone could think of. And over 9 seatrails and 60 days later, I finally involve another evinrude dealer, and he finds the water pump issue in about 15 minutes.
To make things even better, dealer # 2 damaged more items than they fixed.
We had to pay dealer number 3 to redo everything dealer # 2 touched.
Does anyone have a name for the person I should contact @ evinrude corporate?
I have little faith in most mechanics. I read more and more horror stories about crappy workmanship.
I have my own stories about "factory certified or authorized" mechanics. IMO, it means almost nothing. Some are good, some idiots. You just have to find your own that knows his $hit.
__________________ . . . . . . BALLYHOO PIN RIGS For SALE HERE 10 pack:
I would get the address of the corperate office for BRP and send a certified letter to the biggest name you can dig up in that office. All this information can actually be found with a little digging on the internet.
In the letter state in extreme detail everything that happened including names, dates, time frames, ect....and most important the amount of money and frustration it cost you.
Letters like this tend to get results, the extent of the results all depends. If noting else maybe they will investigate the actions of dealer #2 to prevent it from happening to someone else. They may even reimburse you some of your money.
Be sure to have the letter look very professional, type in Microsoft Word if needed. You have every reason to be pissed. After all this it wasn't the engine that was bad, it was one shit bag mechanic, and hopefully he didn't put a permenant sour taste in tour mouth. The manufactures have little or no control how the dealers do business and often these type of dealers will turn a boater off from that brand of engine.
one last pic of how the gromet fits into the waterpump. you can see how it ripped in half from being folding over. wonder why water pressure was so low ??????
I would get the address of the corperate office for BRP and send a certified letter to the biggest name you can dig up in that office. All this information can actually be found with a little digging on the internet.
In the letter state in extreme detail everything that happened including names, dates, time frames, ect....and most important the amount of money and frustration it cost you.
Letters like this tend to get results, the extent of the results all depends. If noting else maybe they will investigate the actions of dealer #2 to prevent it from happening to someone else. They may even reimburse you some of your money.
Be sure to have the letter look very professional, type in Microsoft Word if needed. You have every reason to be pissed. After all this it wasn't the engine that was bad, it was one shit bag mechanic, and hopefully he didn't put a permenant sour taste in tour mouth. The manufactures have little or no control how the dealers do business and often these type of dealers will turn a boater off from that brand of engine.
that will be my next project - thanks for the input -
mechanic # 2 (from the many posts above) lost the battle with american express, over the balance he claimed was due, and the other $$ i had given him for repairs. am ex sided with me even though mechanic # 2 claimed i was abusive and neglected the boat, and caused all of my own problems.
i had to prove i paid rick to redo everything, and that did the trick with am ex.
crappy weather kept us off the boat for a few months, went to use the boat, and the port engine was SIEZED !!!!! took the boat to the mechanic - flywheel had rusted solid to the stater !!! covered under extended warranty. 2 weeks in shop
took the boat fishing the next weekend - ran great for 2 hrs, then stbd engine gives "no oil"
alarm. drop of @ mechanic again, bad oil pump, covered under warranty. 1 more week in the shop
take the boat out again on saturday - runs great for 1 hour, then port motor just quits, no alarms. fool with fuel primer balls, and get it to restart. runs good for the rest of the day.
stop by marina today for a "cold start" engine stalls constantly, and revs intermittently out of gear. stalls immediately when put in gear.
will be dropping back @ mechanic on tuesday. hopefully, this is the last of the problems.
I'm starting to lean more toward Cummins-Detroit-Catapiller-Man (Yanmar/Volvo? not yet anyway). I sure hope they straighten this out. I'm all for American Made motors, and it looked and sounded like Evinrude had finally come up with a winner and backed it up with new powerheads whenever there was a problem. If that extended warranty isn't worth anything then I ain't buying it. I had a minor overheat problem at low RPM (like 950-1000 on my analog tach) when trolling/crusing in gear with my new 2009 250HP E-Tec but they kept after it and it seems solved now. Overall I think it's a fantastic motor, as long as they take care of it as they should. I wonder if diesel owners go through the same BS to try to get something fixed when under warranty, extended or otherwise?
Glad to hear you may have it solved for now anyways. My low idle overheat seems to have gone away last year after they replaced a blowout valve spring, after having had tried water pump, thermostat, and turning off some icommand thing (I don't even have icommand). But the low idle rough idle persisted and the motor shook more than the older ficht next to it. Well I figured out it must of had around 100 hours on it so i changed the plugs and guess what??:: #2 cylinder plug looked like brand new.... They came out last week and low and behold, a wire feeding the coil was not fully inserted from the factory into the plug feeding it..... Reinserted , fired up and tested - looked good to the tech. (I wasn't there) $75 for his time spent driving to the yard. Seems about right, if it wasn't that I reported it a few times before...Oh well - it's a boat. Launch this week and I hope it passes muster.
-Tight lines
I bought a evinrude 225 ficht that had sat for 4 years in the water. Didn't run. spent $1500 for new water pump and fuel pump, clean injectors and clean all the syrup out of the fuel tank & lines. It ran great except when going aroung tight turns at full speed. My friend said maybe it was cavitating and sucking air so I avoided those manuevers. Then one day it stalled and wouldn't start.Took it back to the mechanic.Turns out there is a cooling hose that runs through the computer module to keep it cool. Mechanic said the engine wasn't overheating just the module because the hose was partially plugged from sitting so long and it finally fried. $1800 for a new module and $600 labor. They had to send the old module to Evinrude to download the history into a new module and program it for this engine. Going to pick it up today and we'll see. Hope I'm not the one getting hosed but I really trust this guy so far he has been good to me. He says if I brought it in when it first started acting up he could have fixed it by just cleaning the hose out for MUCH less.
I bought a evinrude 225 ficht that had sat for 4 years in the water. Didn't run. spent $1500 for new water pump and fuel pump, clean injectors and clean all the syrup out of the fuel tank & lines. It ran great except when going aroung tight turns at full speed. My friend said maybe it was cavitating and sucking air so I avoided those manuevers. Then one day it stalled and wouldn't start.Took it back to the mechanic.Turns out there is a cooling hose that runs through the computer module to keep it cool. Mechanic said the engine wasn't overheating just the module because the hose was partially plugged from sitting so long and it finally fried. $1800 for a new module and $600 labor. They had to send the old module to Evinrude to download the history into a new module and program it for this engine. Going to pick it up today and we'll see. Hope I'm not the one getting hosed but I really trust this guy so far he has been good to me. He says if I brought it in when it first started acting up he could have fixed it by just cleaning the hose out for MUCH less.
Hey Handy Andy welcome to THT, I see that's this is your first post here...so all of us here will cut you some slack.
But this thread is over a YEAR OLD dude, were known to talk about a more current topic here.
Your post is interesting enough that you might want to start a new post on your subject versus going back a dozen pages to retrieve this old thread.
Just a tip, as this might confuse many seeing this on page one again.
I just replaced the water pumps on two 2000 Johnson 200 Ocean Pros. It looks like the water pumps on my engines are exactly the same as yours in your pics. The area where the gaskets (O-rings) 'kinked' is a tough little area. You're supposed to lightly glue that O-ring in the groove with special adhesive. I went to the dealer to buy some, and they said they used 'rubber gasket adhesive' that you buy in an auto parts store. If you don't lightly glue the gasket in properly it will kink when installing the pump. There is no way to install the water pump housing properly without doing this step, which is clearly indicated in the instructions. The dealership I bought the pumps from asked where I learned about this adhesive being required. I said it was in the instructions ... they said they never had anybody read the instructions before, and had never been asked for the adhesive. The sole purpose of the adhesive is to hold that long flimsy O-ring in the groove during installation.
Your mechanics tried to use a shortcut by skipping the adhesive is my guess. It takes about 5 minutes for the adhesive to 'tack up', then about 5 minutes of so to effectively stick the gasket in the groove. It has to be held there while the adhesive can set enough to hold the gasket in that shallow groove.
I'm glad I do this kind of work myself because I CARE how it comes out. I've never seen a mechanic that cared as much about my engines as ME. I had never done this type of work before, I had never even taken a lower unit off. I could now remove the lower unit, change a water pump correctly, and replace the lower unit properly in about an hour. I'm really glad I did all this myself because I KNOW that it is done properly.
Read the instrucitons that came with the waterpump ?? What a novel idea ...
REV
Bingo! We have a winner. You can use super glue for the adhesive. Very little though. Just tiny dabs 4 or 5 places around the o-ring to hold it in place. It is virtually impossible to get the o-ring in position if you dont glue it down.
Also when reinstalling the lower unit it really, really, really helps to have a set of extra hands and a strong back to lift it up squarely so the exhaust housing grommet doesn't get pinched. Trying to lift it and hold it up without twisting or tilting it while starting the bolts is tough even for a hoss.
Out of curiosity, why do you think they manufacture the o-rings small so that you need something to hold it in place? On my Yams, I can use heavy grease to hold it in the groove, but why not just make it a fraction of an inch larger?
Out of curiosity, why do you think they manufacture the o-rings small so that you need something to hold it in place? On my Yams, I can use heavy grease to hold it in the groove, but why not just make it a fraction of an inch larger?
Good question and sorry but I dont have an answer. It is a very thin and flimsy o-ring. It will not keep its shape even if you hold it with 2 fingers. Its like trying to lay string in place and there is no groove or lip to hold it in place either...
new challenge from Evinrude Authorized Certified Dealer
being sued by factory authorized and certified Evinrude dealer # 2. Losing with Am Ex was not enough for him. Now we have to go to court. This should actually be fun.
its not bad enough that his company cost many months of aggravation, lack of vessel use, and thousands of dollars to another dealer to redo their substandard work, now we have to hash this out in court?
Obviously Evinride does not have a Business ethics standard for its Authorized Dealers.
evinrude needs to re-evaluate letting these clowns represent them - i know i would.
See you in court.....................................
fyi - the following is an email sent to evinrude corporate regarding this issue
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 2:57 PM
To: 'xxxxxxxx@brp.com'; 'xxxxxxxxxx@brp.com'
Cc: 'roch.lambert@brp.com'
Subject: SHODDY DEALER !!! XXXXX Marine in Fort Lauderdale
Greetings,
This email is being directed to you, as you should know about the business ethics (or lack there of) of an Evinrude Factory Authorized dealer in Fort Lauderdale.
I have personally been an evinrude fan since my first outboard boat in the early 90’s, having owned a total of 6 of your engines. (I also have 2 BRP Sea Do Watercraft) My current boat is a 2000 28 ft Hydra sports center console, with 2 – 225 Etec’s.
The problem:
What started out as minor scheduled engine maitinence, (the dealer was recommended by your phone support techs) blossomed into a 6 month ordeal, of engine disassembly, major expense and complete lack of use of my boat. I completed 9 different sea trails across 3 months of your recommended certified dealer trying to resolve an engine overheating issue. The entire engine, including “midhousing” was disassembled and reassembled on multiple occasions looking for a phantom overheat issue (when the boat was on plane). Evinrude Factory reps were supposedly on site to assist with trouble shooting – and recommended removing electronic depth transducer sensors. (@ great expense, and this was not the problem). After much finger pointing, heart ache, and expense – I insisted that a different Evinrude certified mechanic look @ the issue. (this mechanic was also recommended by your phone tech support personnel) ***** IN A MATTER OF MINUTES**** the new dealer your phone people recommended found the source of the overheat issue !!!!!! the phantom overheat problem was caused by an improperly installed water pump !!!!!!
The dealer that did the faulty water pump installation ( XX Marine in Fort Lauderdale) refused to accept responsibility for the poor workmanship. In addition to resolving the water pump issue, the second mechanic resolved a host of other problems created by XX Marine including : missing parts, broken parts, poorly installed parts, water damage, and general abuse of the engine and boat while in their care. (Thousands of dollars to resolve the problems caused by XX)
To make matters worse – Your “Certified Dealer” XX marine – is now bringing a lawsuit against myself and partner in the boat !!!!!!!
All of my calls to XX go unanswered – including those to the XXXX XXXXX (the owner?) on his personal cell phone, including this morning. All of my calls have been unanswered for many months, since my last contact, when I tried to discuss the issues and balance due with XXXX XXXXX.
I cannot get XX to discuss the issues, and had to resort to disputing the charge on my credit card, to get any relief.
XX sends an invoice every month showing an unpaid balance due, but will not return calls to resolve the issue, and is now turning to the Florida courts as if they are his collection agency.
I would assume that Evinrude has required its representatives to agree to some sort of “dispute resolution” code of ethics?
Is this standard business practice for your Representatives?
As the problems were developing, I was posting the events and photos to a boating web site. As you will see, in the beginning of the issues, your Authorized Dealer/Service Representative was pointing the finger of blame @ evinrude, and I believed him. However, in the end, it became very clear that I was dealing with an unqualified, unethical, Evinrude Service Representative, and the resolution to all of my issues was to use a different service rep.
Is there some procedure for me to file a “Formal Complaint” against your Certified Service Representative?
Can someone from Evinrude please contact me regarding this matter?
If you have the time, please take a look @ the forum discussion
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