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Random Quote: Fishing: A jerk on one end of a line, waiting for a jerk on the other end...
You mentioned the engine always runs rough cold.... keep in mind that engine is designed to idle of 4 of 6 cylinders so it's always going to sound rough at idle. It' s not cold, that's just how it was designed. As soon as you put it in gear the other 2 cylinders kick in and it should smooth out.
Ok, but you still have to address the low engine in the water problem and the trim motor that won't go down all the way, and may have to put all you gear in the front locker.
Sounds like you are going to have to invite Andy down for an expense paid vacation.
It's not a question of "having" it fixed. I have to fix it myself. I wonder if this motor is still under warranty? I think the original owner bought whatever extended warranty he could buy at the time. He told me that the warranty passed along to the next owner.
Andy, what would I call the busted cover, a poppet valve cover, or a pressure control valve cover? Obviously, I ain't going nowhere in it til I fix it. I will need to find a part number.
I would have taken the electronics cover off this morning, too, but I packed my usual kit of tools to take down to the boat, all my metric sockets, screwdrivers, various pliers, ty-wraps, grease gun, etc. But it never occurred to me that I would need a set of metric allen wrenches to get that cover off.
While it was idling, I grabbed the lower right plug wire, and I could feel a little tickle. I unplugged it to see if it made a difference, and it did. I plugged it right back on and it smoothed out.
Dunk, that's not the fouled plug photo. This is one of the fouled plug photos:
Wow, now I agree about the saltwater. That looks like rust scraped off the cylinder walls. You better hope that engine is still under warranty....but you were suppose to have it transfered thru a Yam dealer when you bought it...
And Even if it were under warranty, what does that get me? The right to pay a boatyard to pull it off the boat, and then for me to arrange to crate and ship it to the USA, and then if they fix it, to ship it back and get it re-installed? We are talkilng thousands of dollars here for me to get a free warranty repair. And time. Lots and lots of time. Figure a week each way just on the transportation.
Warranty would only actually do me any good if it got me free parts to install. And warranties don't work that way.
If Gringo is getting that much water under the cowling from that leaking poppet cover, there is a real good chance that the large amount of incoming air into the cowling is picking up some of that water and its mixing with the air that the engine is using for combustion. I don't think we are talking about enough water to hydro-lock the engine, otherwise that would have already happened.
As I mentioned before his problem maybe 2 fold with the mean(or however its referred too) water level while planning. But until he gets that obvious cover problem fixed and then retested, its all speculation. As he mentioned the problem is a new one.....not one he has had all along.
What gets me wondering is how that cover even broke to begin with. I think it would almost have to be physical damage but where it is located its hard to see how that would happen.
__________________ Andy Munao Our new parts site: www.simyamaha.com Yamaha Outboard Sales, Parts and Service 1-800-213-3323 parts@shipyardisland.com Click the logo to see our THT Vendor Forum
Actually, I did look at it. Trying to figure out how the heck it got broken. There is no sign of impact on the paint that I can see. There has never been anything anywhere near it. Heck, it would take quite an effort to even find it, let alone hit it with something. Took me a while to even find it.
The only thing I could think of would be some stress defect in the casting, possibly together with someone mis-torquing it on initial installation. I am pretty sure it has never been touched since the engine was delivered. Heck, it's difficult to touch it even now, with it sticking out there an inch or so on that spring. I can ask the previous owner, but AFAIK all he ever did to it in the 80 hours he owned it was to have it serviced at 10 and 50 hours by his mechanic. I would not imagine that service would include anything to do with that cover.
Just to back up a bit, that motor also appears pretty low in that runing shot but its hard to tell. Once you get the problem squared away, take a pic of your cav plate at a fast cruise. With your bracket, the engine needs to be mounted pretty high.
You should go ahead and do a compression test while your at it. If the plug is rusty then its pretty likely your cylinder walls and rings are as well. Its really amazing that the intake looks so clean.
I haven't done a compression test since back when I was driving my 68 Mustang GT 390, and building a fiberglass bodied early Bronco.
I assume its still the same, a compression guage with a hard rubber stopper that you hold against a spark plug hole and crank the engine over?
I still do not think that water was getting into the intake.
I just got off the phone with my buddy here, who has confirmed that he does still have the carcass of my beloved Yamaha 150 carbed 2 stroke sitting in his back yard. Is the poppet valve in about the same location on the 150 as on the 300? He was looking while on the phone, but he doesn't know what he is looking for.
When you replace the cap get the NEW insert with the mushroom head (it will not get sand/shells stuck in it as easy as the poorly designed old ones.
I have replaced these on both of my motors, and that cap is strong the only way i could see it breaking like yours is if the power head has been off and was dropped on something with the cap taking the blow.
On my 200 hpdi's You have to strip the motor in the rear of everything to get access tot he pop-it valve (so bring your tools Allen 10mm, 8mm) it's not hard.
That spring is a strong one. Bring a 1/4 flex joint for your 1/4 ratchet/socket it will make it much easer.
I don't think I should let it sit that long. It would be another three days before I could get that part sent down here, if I used Fed Ex, which would add $ 50 to the cost.
called my local buddy up last night, and he confirmed that yes, the remains of our 150 Yammie ( with less than 200 hours on it) were still sitting in his back yard. He also invited us over for some conch and sea turtle. SO, we went.
I snapped a photo of my beloved 150, lying there oxidizing nine months now, in the tropic sun...
and looky what I see right there in front of God and everybody...a poppit valve cover! Peeking out from behind a vine..
He also mentioned that he still had the stainless Rev 4 prop that was on it, and asked if I wanted that for the new boat. I am guessing that whatever Rev. 4 Ken and the Propgods put on that Andros 22 would be too small for the 300 HPDI ?? I ask, because my three bladed prop on the 300 is slightly bent. And whatever it is, it never really got up to the WOT rev spec.
do you have any confidence that you are ging to be able to get this to work
i might be thinking about trying to talk someone into flying down, maybe make a vacation out of it after they fix your motor
Gringo, hopefully you can bring that 300 back to life.
On somewhat related note, what year is your hull? I have a '96 with a single Yamaha 250. Was curious how your boat ran with the 300 before you had the problems. Top speed?
Well, the hull is a 94 and the motor an 06. The top speed we have seen so far was around 48 mph, as I recall, but I didn't really worry about it because it was not the smoothest day that day and I always figured we could really open it up just to see once we had good smooth water etc. That never really has happened.
But we have never seen much beyond 4300-4500 RMP at WOT with it, so I would not say that was all it could do if everything was right. I also do not know what prop it has on it. It's been in the water essentially since the day we cleared it through customs, in mid November.
How does yours run with the 250? I am seriously starting to think about what I will have to do to replace this 300. I don't know whether to start thinking about another big single, or a pair of smaller outboards.
Our situation is that we only have to go a mile and a half offshore to be in deep water. We don't need a lot of speed. Range either, for that matter.We just don't have these start-before-dawn long canyon runs a lot of the guys have. We can be in five thousand feet of water in ten minutes. Also, its just about always choppy here, and we only ran our last boat WOT a few times in a year and a half.
Mine runs pretty good with a 250. The boat gets on a plane quickly even with a full load. Max speed I've seen is 43 mph. I usually cruise around 30 mph. The prop I'm running is a Yamaha stainless 19m prop which I believe is 15 1/4 x 19.
I also have a relatively short run as well to open water from Miami. Gulf Stream is usually about 7-12 miles offshore. No question its the best riding hull in a head sea I've ever owned. Some minor adjustments on the trim tabs and the boat rides great.
When the time comes to re-power mine I've also thought about twins but that would involve installing a new bracket since our brackets are built for a single outboard. So I would more than likely go for another single outboard, most likely a 300 for some more top end speed.
I've been noticing more and more Suzuki's down here. Yamaha owned this market for a long time. Watched E-tec come and go, there's a few Mercs and Hondas around, but it's been 90 percent yamaha.
I was sitting next to two Suzuki 300 four strokes on the back of an interisland water taxi a couple weeks ago, carrying on a conversation and amazed at how they were running. If I can't do something with this 300 HPDI, ...
