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It's now raised as much as it can be raised with this setup. We have the top bolts now in the fourth hole down on the motor. The bottom bolts are now against the bottom of the slot on the motor.
I would have to have someone make up an adaptor plate or something to get it any higher with this bracket.
We'll take it out this afternoon or tomorrow and give it a try.
It's now raised as much as it can be raised with this setup. We have the top bolts now in the fourth hole down on the motor. The bottom bolts are now against the bottom of the slot on the motor.
I would have to have someone make up an adaptor plate or something to get it any higher with this bracket.
We'll take it out this afternoon or tomorrow and give it a try.
No photos? Did you put a straight edge along the keel and measure up to the anti-ventilation plate?
My kid has my camera underwater at the moment. I'll get a photo when he climbs back out of the ocean.
I did not put a straightedge on it, but just figured I would go all the way as shallow as I could with this setup. it's only about 2.5 inches higher. I doubt that will make a huge difference, but one never knows. At least that should keep the ocean below the level of the gasket between the upper and lower cowling.
No photos? Did you put a straight edge along the keel and measure up to the anti-ventilation plate?
Okay, kid came back with some great underwater shots and I borrowed my camera back.
This is looking straight at the anti-ventilation plate, and it is about level with where the bottom most part of the bracket joins the transom now. You can also see the height holes we raised it since the last photo.
This is taken from lower, with the eye level being at the level of the keel. IF I extended the line of the keel with a straightedge, it would just about rest exactly on top of the propeller hub.
Or, in other words, the distance on the transom from the bottom of that bracket to the keel is about exactly the distance fromthe anti-ventilation plate to the top of the prop hub flange/housing. I mean the top of the round, stainless flange section, not the internal spline.
I hope this works for you but if not a manual or hydrolic jackplate will dial you in easier. The manual jackplate can be quit cheap if bought used.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringo
Okay, kid came back with some great underwater shots and I borrowed my camera back.
This is looking straight at the anti-ventilation plate, and it is about level with where the bottom most part of the bracket joins the transom now. You can also see the height holes we raised it since the last photo.
This is taken from lower, with the eye level being at the level of the keel. IF I extended the line of the keel with a straightedge, it would just about rest exactly on top of the propeller hub.
Or, in other words, the distance on the transom from the bottom of that bracket to the keel is about exactly the distance fromthe anti-ventilation plate to the top of the prop hub flange/housing. I mean the top of the round, stainless flange section, not the internal spline.
__________________ 2006 Skeeter ZX24 Bay
2006 Yamaha 300 HPDI
2010 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4
Team: EAT-SLEEP-FISH---~ <)))))<
Trying hard to become a 1%er www.ramseydoor.com www.raynoroverheaddoor.com
I'd clean that screen and put er' back in the water to put some load on the engine. Doubtful that running high rpm's on a muff would damage the engine, but no load will be put on that prop and engine doing it that way. BTW...Engine height looks much better.
yeah, I am working my way through all this. I think I need to run into 'town' to buy some muffs, anyhow. Just to make sure she starts and runs before I go through the hassle of taking it off this hill and launching it. After my whole thing with the loose connector for the VST pump before, I think I need to fire it up to be sure I hooked everything back up right each time I work on it. Lotta stuff on that motor.
Cleaning the screen was not that easy. I tried just back flushing with gasoline, then with acetone, finally soaked it in alcohol and used q-tips. Stiff brush with very fine bristles would have worked. Not sure compressed air alone would have done it.
And of course knowing that if I screwed it up I had to wait three or four days ( i.e. next week) to get a replacement Fed-Ex'd.....made me pretty cautious.
That motor doesnt like muffs. Dont leave it unatttended running as it will probably overheat. Get the muffs with a dual water feed.
__________________ 2006 Skeeter ZX24 Bay
2006 Yamaha 300 HPDI
2010 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4
Team: EAT-SLEEP-FISH---~ <)))))<
Trying hard to become a 1%er www.ramseydoor.com www.raynoroverheaddoor.com
I find this thread a joke, the engine has had water enter the cylinders it has not run right since and may have permanent damage yet the owner is adjusting the height of the engine?
Yes it might of caused the problem but its like fixing the brakes on a car that has bad body damage and might be a total. Yes the brakes caused the accident but it won't undo the body damage.
In addtion the engine has computer controls/engine managment that might provide error codes that would tell him what is wrong. But he does not understand or have access to diagnostic computer to read the codes. Instead of taking it to a Yamaha Pro who can diagnostic the problem he spends money on a new driveway and continues hacking away at the engine.
I find this thread a joke, the engine has had water enter the cylinders it has not run right since and may have permanent damage yet the owner is adjusting the height of the engine?
Yes it might of caused the problem but its like fixing the brakes on a car that has bad body damage and might be a total. Yes the brakes caused the accident but it won't undo the body damage.
In addtion the engine has computer controls/engine managment that might provide error codes that would tell him what is wrong. But he does not understand or have access to diagnostic computer to read the codes. Instead of taking it to a Yamaha Pro who can diagnostic the problem he spends money on a new driveway and continues hacking away at the engine.
This man lives in the middle of nowhere, and does not have access to a "Pro." If there was ever a situation where you "work with what you got", this seems to be it. A notoriously bad engine in a remote, island country. I hope he can fix it and run the snot out of it. Maybe one of our resident "Pros" can fly down to the island and bring a loptop with the Yamaha software.
With our 250 HPDI, much more than 1000-1200 rpms on the muffs pops the overheat alarm. I wouldn't be looking for high rpm's on the muffs, but it certainly will work to make sure it runs, and if your careful, let it idle in gear on the muffs so all 6 cylinders will be firing. As always, Good Luck!
We just took it out for a spin. Moving the motor up fixed that issue, no more seawater inside the cowling. Glad that is off the list, finally. Also changed the gear oil yesterday. This is the first time this boat has been out of the water since November.
Unfortunately, cleaning the VST filter did not seem to affect how it runs. It accelerated pretty well, right onto plane and got up to 5,000 rpm for about ten seconds, then got ragged and the rpms dropped back down to the 3800-4000 RPM range. So we brought it home.
You guys are right about the muffs. For starters, can't get them to seal up very well. Water everywhere. But at least I was able to verify that it starts and runs.
I am going to try to cobble together some kind of fuel pressure guage this afternoon. I was eyeing the wife's bicycle pump ( it has a pressure guage) but she put the kibosh on me using any part of that. and if the VST is giving me 50 psi then I am thinking about removing the canister filter between the VST and the HP pumps temporarily, to see if that is restricting fuel flow. I can put a straight piece of tubing or something in there. There are none of those filters in the country, either, so it's not like I can just run down and buy a new one.
As for that bozo in NY, I don't know why anyone would even bother responding to him. He obviously comprehends about 5-10% of what he reads. Not worth any time to explain it all to him. No potential upside to that.
I have a 300 HPDI that I just changed all those filters on. That cannister filter has a little trcik to it to get it off the fuel line. If you send me a PM with your email address, I'll send you a copy of the manual for that engine and an email I sent to some guys on how to remove and replace those filters. This may help you. Also, you'll need high pressure clamps to connect the fuel line.
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