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Random Quote: he ain't afraid of hard work, i seen him sit down right in the middle of it.
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Below is a link to my latest creation. It's not perfect, but it'll haul in fish! I built it for the shallow marshes here in Louisiana. It's a GF16 from plans that can be bought at www.boatplansonline.com
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Quote:
good_enough - 5/14/2004 4:43 PM
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inkahootz - 5/14/2004 6:44 AM
good_enough, what did you use to glue the starboard together? That looks really nice with the two different colors. I thought it was Corian at first.
The starboard pieces are held together by screws. There is no good glue available for the starboard.
Thanks
actually there is. 3M makes a urethane glue that will work and as long as it's not a structural bond like gluing two sides of a stair step together, gorilla glue will hold it quite readily.
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Quote:
redfishla - 5/14/2004 4:44 PM
Below is a link to my latest creation. It's not perfect, but it'll haul in fish! I built it for the shallow marshes here in Louisiana. It's a GF16 from plans that can be bought at www.boatplansonline.com
Your pics remind me of when I was 12. I tried to make a simple boat by nailing plywood together. Sure wish my dad would have turned me on to sealing the joints though. He said I needed to learn that one the hard way. It sank promtly
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Thom, that would really rock if...
You made it where it could attach/remove from a flush mounted base!
Is there any kind of fixture/mount that installs flush with the deck,
but allows a certain size pipe or conduit to drop in?
Maybe with a threaded plug to seal it when not in use?
Guess that would most likely be seen on boats bigger than what I'm used to!
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
inkahootz
Joinery!
On the legs and endrails I used mortise and tenon joints. The slats are assembled using 3/8 by 3/4 dado joints in the rails, with 3/4 by 3/8 by 1 3/8inch spacers between each slat. I used southern yellow pine, just plain old 2 by 4s and 2 by 6s. Planed them down with a 7" planer/joiner. I used a chisel and mallet to cut the mortises and a table saw to cut the dados and tenons. After fooling around a while with the assembly, I found that it was easier just to build a jig to hold the rails in place while I installed the slats.
The finish is Mimwax stain (Puritan Pine), with 5 very thin coats of Bullseye Clear Shellac.
__________________ Cape Horn 17, Yamaha F115
with
Elmo the Boat Dog
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Response to Sea Dad about my home-made "backlit" switch panel:
I had been searching wide and far for a fuse or circuit breaker panel that had the features I was looking for. It had to have backlighting plus illuminated LEDs for the circuit energized, and it had to cost much less than $180 or so the various chandleries are asking. I found one ... but it needs a little DIY modifications.
The panel shown is a 6-gang Circuit Breaker panel that I bought at Boater’s World for < $60; sized 5 ¼” wide by 7 5/8” tall. The LED in the rocker switch illuminates when the switch is ON. It comes with 30 pre-made labels that adhere over a cutout in the panel. The labels use white lettering that show through the label material, which makes them ideal for backlighting. I figure if they don’t have a label I want, I’ll simply make up my own using the computer.
The panel is made by UPM, Ultra Panel Marine out of Miami, FL. Here’s the panel from the front, note using labels at random ... these are not how I finally configured it:
For the backlights and box they’re mounted in I went to Radio Shack. The 12VDC lamps simply snap into a ½” hole, item # 272-335C for a pack of 2 @ $2, in red, green, or blue. I chose the blue on purpose, just to be different from the red "On" LED when energized. The box is a project enclosure, 6” x 2” x1”, item# 270-1804 @ $3. As you can see in this picture it is much too wide for this panel so I needed to trim it. I used 3 lamps and centered one vertically between 2 labels. Here’s the details of the backpanel "in process":
I put these switch "backlights" into the #1 circuit on the panel so I know exactly where it is, even if by “feel” only. My old panel had black text on a dark grey panel that can’t be read during the day from 5’ away! While the picture is fuzzy you can see it works slick! It also shows the LED from switch #1 lit when egergized ... apologizing in advance for the fuzzy photo !
__________________ [red]MISS TEAK[/red], 25' Parker mod-V Sport Cabin "Life's too short to own an ugly boat ..." www.classicparker.com
The second is 2 panel overlay companies Mid state screen graphics, and insta-screen. They will make your printed and translucent panel overlay for that new custom panel. So you can have a solid panel face instead of separate label areas. Have a look at their work, you'll see what I mean. http://www.midstatescreengraphics.com/overlays.htm http://www.bwind.com/inst.a.screen.htm
I will eventually be going this route for my dash panel and power distribution panel in the console when I finally settle on the layout configuration. I am going to try what I have now for this season, but I suspect I will recess the whole dash into a pocket with a clear hatch cover that locks. Notice my switches have no labels, man do I have a memory or what? (there are 16 of them on there) LOL
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Sea-Dad,
That's exactly what I was thinking about doing; the recessed dash. I now have a box in the console where your flat face is. I would like to recess mine in a pocket and flush mount. Please let me know how yours comes along. Thoughts drawings and ideas. I'm at the same stage.
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Fishin Spot, there are quite a few boat manufacturers that have been building consoles like that already.
Nearly all that I have seen are molded plastic tubs, for lack of a better name, and are screwed in to the cutout on the console. I suspect that buying the tub from one of them may be the easiest approach, as it will have a finished appearence without resorting to extreme efforts.
Another way to do it would be how they made the glove box for my console. It has a starboard bevel, and a metal cavity. What I like about it is the hatch cover slides up into the top of glove box itself and catches there so you dont have to have the hatch just flipped up and in your face. This is probably what I will do myself.
Then there is making the tug out of fiberglass. I cant see doing it this way because of the weight and thickness needed to make it strong enough would make mounting the switches a pain. But maybe it could be done with a sandwich construction with an aluminum sheet for the core on the tub. That would keep it thin and stiff.
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
What is the maximum mounting pad thickness for most switches? I had planned on using some black starboard as a new switch console. Strength is not a concern because the panel is so small.
I think starboard is available in 1/4" thick isn't it?
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
Okay, I guess this falls into the category of homemade as this was homemade in my friend's backyard. I made the website for him, along with the video and many of the photos. I helped him for many years building it, also helped for a few years fishing it! It's a fine boat, all from scratch: http://www.missrebecca.com
RE: Home-made...lets see some other home-made stuff!.
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inkahootz - 5/15/2004 7:59 AM
What is the maximum mounting pad thickness for most switches? I had planned on using some black starboard as a new switch console. Strength is not a concern because the panel is so small.
I think starboard is available in 1/4" thick isn't it?
You can get toggle switches with various thread lengths. But I dont think any of the snap in switches will go that far. I think it's around 1/8" max on them.