*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Going from a bunk trailer to a roller trailer, from electric brakes to surge.
Notices
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: May the holes in your net be no larger than the fish in it.
Going from a bunk trailer to a roller trailer, from electric brakes to surge.
I have owned 7 boats in my boating life from 16' - 34'. Every boat had a bunk style trailer and electric brakes. I have lots of experience in trailering a boat, in fact, I'm very good at it. I recently sold my Scarab Sport and downgraded to a 24' Thompson hard top. The Thompson has a bunk trailer but it is so small for the boat so I had been on the search for a larger trailer. I found an older E Z Loader roller trailer that will hold the Thompson perfectly. The trailer has all of its rollers and is in OK condition, the brake line that runs back to the axle is broken so I will have to fix the surge brake system.
With my bunk trailers I would back the boat down the ramp until the boat was just barely in the water and I would unhook the bow hook because the boat wouldn't move off of the bunk trailer. I have seen a boat literally shoot off of the back of a roller trailer and land on the ramp 20' before the water. So I know you can't unhook the winch line on a roller trailer until the boat trailer is basically all the way down in the water...right?
On a typical roller style trailer do you guys loosen the winch line a few inches before you back the boat down the ramp? Or do you actually wait until the boat is floating off of the trailer before you unhook it?
I'm sure I will have to adjust some of the rollers to better fit the boat but how do you do it? Do you mark the adjustments when the boat is on the trailer and then take the boat off of the trailer to make the adjustments? Would I be better off having the boat lifted onto the trailer with a sling at the marina and then make the adjustments before actually putting the boat on the trailer for the first time? The roller arms on this trailer are held on by some very rusted U bolts so I have no confidence that I will be able to make any quick adjustments as these bolts are likely to break as soon as I put any torque on them. Should I change all of the rusty hardware that I may have to adjust before I put the boat on the trailer for the first time?
The boat has no through hull fittings on the bottom so I don't have to worry about anything on the bottom getting damaged by sitting on a roller. Are there any measurements and/or adjustments I should make before putting the boat on the trailer for the first time?
As far as the surge brakes, no idea how long since they last worked so I may have to put some time and money into getting the brakes working. I have only had electric trailer brakes and no experience with surge brakes. Is there anything I need to know that is significantly different about surge brakes? I understand how they work but I don't understand how you can adjust them, are they typically adjustable? Why have I heard that some people have problems trying to back the trailer up with surge brakes? Logically I can see how the brakes would come on if you had to back the trailer up an incline, how do you overcome that?
I'm trying not to look like a novice dummy when I try to put the boat on the trailer for the first time. Also any advice on electric -vs- surge brakes would be appreciated.
There should be a "lockout" selenoid on the surge brakes. When you put the truck in reverse it activates the selenoid, which blocks the hyraulic line from the surge cyl to the brakes. This is the 5th wire (blue) on the connector. If it does not have a lock out, you may have to put a pin through the frame right behind the surge coupling, put a C clam on the trailer tongue right behind the surge coupling or secure the coupling from going backward in some other fashion.
Are the brakes disc or drum--the adjustment will be different.
Bob- no idea if drum or disc. The guy I bought it from has a boat sitting on that he is trying to sell. I probably won't get the trailer for another week, which is why I'm asking so many questions now.
Thanks for the information you provide on securing the coupling from moving, I'm hoping everything like this is already on the trailer, I just have to learn how to use everything.
I have seen a boat literally shoot off of the back of a roller trailer and land on the ramp 20' before the water. So I know you can't unhook the winch line on a roller trailer until the boat trailer is basically all the way down in the water...right?
On a typical roller style trailer do you guys loosen the winch line a few inches before you back the boat down the ramp? Or do you actually wait until the boat is floating off of the trailer before you unhook it?
My first "experience" with Trophy boats was watching a brand new 23' hardtop bounce down a concrete ramp and into the water. The owner had never owned a roller trailer before and unhooked it at the top of the ramp. When they put it back on the trailer, the keel had a lot of rash but was not crushed. At the time, I had no thoughts of buying a new boat but when I was looking a few years later, I remembered how strong that boat had to be made to bounce 3 or 4 times on concrete and not crush the keel.
On my old roller trailer, I would back completely into the water before removing the strap. No loosening it before backing down, let the boat float and then unhook. That said, I'd never own another roller trailer, a bunk is so much easier to load and unload.
__________________ 2004 Trophy 2902 WA with Merc 225 EFIs
Sucks gas and hauls ass!
One step ahead and you are a genius, two steps ahead and you are a misfit.
When you do get the trailer, the first thing you'll need to do is to start lubing and breaking hardware loose so it can be adjusted to fit the boat. You'll undoubtedly break several U-bolts and other pieces of hardware, but it is very important that you are able to adjust the trailer once the boat is in the sling. That means you've gone over the trailer and made darn sure everything is actually adjustable and any frozen hardware has been replaced. Having the boat in a travelift sling works great. You'll need to schedule a time when they won't need the lift for a couple hours.
You'll start by backing everything off, so the sling can hold the boat in the right position on the trailer. Once it is about where you want it, start bringing the roller assemblies up into place. If you can't get it perfect, I would not be too worried about it. As long as the boat is supported enough that you can tow the boat and trailer out of the yard, you can use jacks and blocks at home to do the final adjustment. Fixing the brakes will also be a lot easier if it is done before the boat is on the trailer.
I would personally never own a roller trailer, they are not as secure at holding your vessel on land as compared to a bunk trailer.
X3
I had a roller trailer for a 22 ft boat. Never again. Too many parts that rust and need constant replacement.
In all reality, you are probably looking at a whole new brake system. Why not find a better trailer?
__________________ "Lickety Split" 31 Fountain with 250 efi's
I like my roller.
A little more maintenace, but I like it better for solo launch / haul.
All the tilts & swivels need to be working or it can be a nightmare.
Roll off,,, gently motor on. It's so easy I feel embarassed watching others fight their option.
Main thing. Keep the pivots lubed as well as the rollers. Night & day.
I never bust a nut getting it off,
or trying to get it on.
A few dabs of grease, couple drops of oil every couple months is no big deal in the lot after you launch. Takes all of 5 minutes maybe.
I've been looking for several months for another trailer and all I could find was over priced junk. This trailer can handle a 26' boat w/ capacity of 7,000lbs and is in pretty good condition. For the price I couldn't turn it down.
I've already bought the trailer so no need to tell me I should have purchased a bunk trailer. The boat is only going to be on the trailer about 5 times a year, the rest of the time the boat sits in the water.
There are an equal amount of people that love roller trailers as those that hate them. I've never owned one so after a season of using it I will also have an opinion on roller -vs- bunk.
Well...
Never disconnect anything until the stern is floating and you will negate 90% of the problems with rollers. Also, inspect your hull each year for tell-tale indentation damage. The rollers tend not distribute the load of your vessel properly.
It will no doubt be easier to launch and retrieve though and you will not have to worry about friction damage (rubbed gelcoat) cause by some bunks.
Going from a bunk trailer to a roller trailer, from electric brakes to surge. 
trying to get it on.
