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Old 05-15-2009, 06:16 AM
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Default How do i remove salt buildup inside the motor?

Wassup guys,
i have a friend who owns a 98 Merc Opti 225 and she is having some over heating problems. He just got the motor serviced and a brand new impeller was put in but when he starts the motor up the overheating alarm comes on within the first 3-5 minutes of idling and the water coming out of it is really hot compared to the other motor. so he looked at one of the water passage ways and it has a lot of salt build up. So my question is, what can we use to run though the motor to clear the build up out.
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:45 AM
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Did they replace the in water line thermostat? They are brass and they faill a lot.
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:40 AM
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When flushing after salt water use I have always used SaltAway. I never had any salt issues with it, but I did use it from day one. You can run it through concentrated and probably disolve the heavier stuff first. Then flush with fresh water. It can also be used to leave a coating inside the passages to protect as well.

That said, if it is just salt, it should flush itself out with a lot of fresh water(I would think). If it is not salt and actuall corrosion or rust flakes, that's a whole new can o worms.

After you get this fixed, I suggest a good fresh water flush frequently to keep it from coming back and use a protectant for the metal.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:35 AM
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I 2nd the t-stats, but if their is a lot of buildup, this should do the trick.

http://www.rydlymemarine.com/

Outboard instructions:
http://www.rydlymemarine.com/pdfs/MARINE%20OUTBOARD%20GRAPHIC.pdf

Last edited by mboy; 05-15-2009 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmode View Post
Wassup guys,
i have a friend who owns a 98 Merc Opti 225 and she is having some over heating problems. He just got the motor serviced and a brand new impeller was put in but when he starts the motor up the overheating alarm comes on within the first 3-5 minutes of idling and the water coming out of it is really hot compared to the other motor. ...........
How did you determine the problem is caused by salt buildup? This is something that would happen over time, not all of a sudden.

Did it overheat before he had it serviced? If so, whoever serviced it didn't do a very good job. If not, whoever serviced it screwed something up.

The suggestion to check the thermostat is a good one but again, whoever serviced it ................
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:26 AM
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I had the same problem and umbelievably the problem was caused by the fresh water itself, because of the careful flushing we did day after day since the engine was bought, The fresh water supply in my marina in The Canary Islands Spain had a lot of calcium ( minerals dissolved in the water) and it slowly built layer after layer a thick like concrete scale looking deposit that clogged the water passages of my engine. After replacing the "top" of the engine ( where the valves are ) we never flushed it with fresh water again because sea water does not cause those deposits and if it deposits salt it will be flushed with the next run of salt water passin through it.

By the way the product proposed by our forum colleage that redlyme struff, is probably more a barnaccle and living stuff removal product than a calcium deposits removal.

We had done a complete cleaning of our engine making it run in a closed circuit with fresh water and a lot of "calgonit " wich is a specific anti calcium depsits normally used to keep dishwashers and clothes washing machines free of calcium deposits in areas where the water is hard . when doin so if you do, put the leg of your engine inside a barrel with a lot of this product and make it run with the cooling water in closed circuit for maybe an hour keepin an eye in to the temperature of this cooling water which is now runiing in a closed circuit, and stop when it becomes too hot do this for a couple of times and your engine will be free of calcium in fact you will be able to see the bad stuff at the bottom of the barrel (or big plastic container of any kind) sorry for my not so good english, if in need af any further explanation let me know.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:30 AM
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We make a product sold at West and others called Salt Off - use the flushing attachment and it removes salt deposits while leaving a protective PTEF coating.
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:01 AM
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Did he have the impeller replaced because the old one failed and came apart? Are there any pieces of broken impeller inside the cooling passages?
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:19 AM
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FWIW- Higher heat, as in a borderline overheating engine, will tend to cause salt -precipitate buildup. That's why I/B's & I/O's that are RW-cooled generally have lower temp thermostats.
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CANARIANFISHER View Post
I had the same problem and umbelievably the problem was caused by the fresh water itself, because of the careful flushing we did day after day since the engine was bought, The fresh water supply in my marina in The Canary Islands Spain had a lot of calcium ( minerals dissolved in the water) and it slowly built layer after layer a thick like concrete scale looking deposit that clogged the water passages of my engine. After replacing the "top" of the engine ( where the valves are ) we never flushed it with fresh water again because sea water does not cause those deposits and if it deposits salt it will be flushed with the next run of salt water passin through it.

By the way the product proposed by our forum colleage that redlyme struff, is probably more a barnaccle and living stuff removal product than a calcium deposits removal.

We had done a complete cleaning of our engine making it run in a closed circuit with fresh water and a lot of "calgonit " wich is a specific anti calcium depsits normally used to keep dishwashers and clothes washing machines free of calcium deposits in areas where the water is hard . when doin so if you do, put the leg of your engine inside a barrel with a lot of this product and make it run with the cooling water in closed circuit for maybe an hour keepin an eye in to the temperature of this cooling water which is now runiing in a closed circuit, and stop when it becomes too hot do this for a couple of times and your engine will be free of calcium in fact you will be able to see the bad stuff at the bottom of the barrel (or big plastic container of any kind) sorry for my not so good english, if in need af any further explanation let me know.
I'm puzzled as to why you think seawater does not have dissolved calcium in it that will come out of solution when in contact with a metal surface such as aluminum. Barnacles are calcium.

I don't think he has a salt problem at all. I think its a mineral deposit problem. A very common problem.
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:50 PM
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Canarianfisher is incorrect. Rydlyme Marine is specifically designed for cleaning and descaling the raw water side of the cooling system in marine engines.
I've used it and was impressed with the results, but that was with my diesel inboards.
It needs to be circulated through the cooling system via a small pump from a bucket or reservoir of the solution- if there's a way to do that with an outboard it will definitely get rid of the deposits in your cooling system.

http://www.rydlymemarine.com/
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:14 PM
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Canarianfisher is incorrect. Rydlyme Marine is specifically designed for cleaning and descaling the raw water side of the cooling system in marine engines.
I've used it and was impressed with the results, but that was with my diesel inboards.
It needs to be circulated through the cooling system via a small pump from a bucket or reservoir of the solution- if there's a way to do that with an outboard it will definitely get rid of the deposits in your cooling system.

http://www.rydlymemarine.com/

The 2nd link in my post was the instructions they have for doing it with an outboard.
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:29 PM
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per their MSDS, Rydlyme is just diluted Hydrochloric acid. Another alternative is to run engines in a trashcan or pump recirc flush with straight vinegar. It is acidic and will dissolve calcium and salts and lots cheaper than other chemicals. Keep adding new vinegar as old stuff increases in ph as it dissolves the deposits.
Try it on a sample of table salt or calcium.
A commercial produce is called CLR available in hardware depts of Walmart and Home Depot, etc.
It is stronger acid-lower ph.
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:36 PM
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People, wouldn't it be better troubleshooting proceedure to make sure it is actually salt buildup that is causing the problem before trying to flush the possible salt out?
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deltarome View Post
per their MSDS, Rydlyme is just diluted Hydrochloric acid. Another alternative is to run engines in a trashcan or pump recirc flush with straight vinegar. It is acidic and will dissolve calcium and salts and lots cheaper than other chemicals. Keep adding new vinegar as old stuff increases in ph as it dissolves the deposits.
Try it on a sample of table salt or calcium.
A commercial produce is called CLR available in hardware depts of Walmart and Home Depot, etc.
It is stronger acid-lower ph.
What he said. You can get it cheap at Costco. 4 - one gallon bottles in a case.
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:41 PM
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People, wouldn't it be better troubleshooting proceedure to make sure it is actually salt buildup that is causing the problem before trying to flush the possible salt out?
perfectly said - I'd want to know how the hell the salt/clacium/crap got in there in the first place. I have seen tons of motors with many hours on them that never get this problem....
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:00 PM
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Sodium, chloride is a salt, Calcium Chloride is a salt--etc. No difference. They all can build up. After checking for broken impeller parts, thermostat occlusion, it may "boil down" to having to clean the passages out with hydrochloric acid--or even mechanically first, if there is enough blockage.

The prevention is adequate flushing and in some cases addin "Salt away". Once there is heavy build up and poor flow, just washing with fresh water or even dilute acids may not be adequate to get rid of the accumuated deposits--of whatever salt or corrosive materials have built up.
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:11 PM
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Sodium, chloride is a salt, Calcium Chloride is a salt--etc. No difference. They all can build up. After checking for broken impeller parts, thermostat occlusion, it may "boil down" to having to clean the passages out with hydrochloric acid--or even mechanically first, if there is enough blockage.

The prevention is adequate flushing and in some cases addin "Salt away". Once there is heavy build up and poor flow, just washing with fresh water or even dilute acids may not be adequate to get rid of the accumuated deposits--of whatever salt or corrosive materials have built up.
.

NaCl and CaCl2 will not build up except you let all water evaporate in the hot engine. They will get immediately redissolved when sea water is back. However, they do cause corrosion. CaCO3 will build up and remain because of the high pH of sea water and lowest solubility at high temperatures. It also gets easily dissolved by acid water.

If you put HCl on NaCl or CaCl2, there will be no reaction. If you do on CaCO3, bubbles will spit out.

Does not trouble shoot the engine though

So running the engine in a diluted acid (vineager or others) should help.
Did you check all cylinders are too hot?
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Old 05-16-2009, 07:11 AM
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........CaCO3 will build up and remain because of the high pH of sea water and lowest solubility at high temperatures. It also gets easily dissolved by acid water.

I agree with everything you said except for this.......Calcium Carbonate deposits are extremely hard. Trying to dissolve them with mild acids like vinegar or acid water (not sure exactly what that is) is going to take awhile.....Think trying to dissolve a conch shell with vinegar.
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