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There are about 30 possibilities that the Check Engine light can come on for.
Could be as simple as water in the fuel, a sensor problem or as complex as a voltage problem. Hard to say without knowing what service code was set/ stored when the alarm sounded.
If you had been running at a higher rpm AND the engine went into SLOW mode (rpm reduced to approx 1200), then it would be a critical problem. If no SLOW, then its something minor. But since you were idling...
Yeah when a check engine alarm comes on it won't shut off until you shut the engine off and restart it.
Like John said, it could be a few things, most likely minor though. These days with the NMEA systems the alarm will tell you in plain english what the problem is.
Fuel problem. If you look in the owners manual, it tells you a check engine light means a fuel restriction. I had a problem on my 98 ocean pro, cause was a collaspe fuel hose. When I ran her up on rpm's the light would come on and as soon as I lower the rpm's the light would go off. Maybe change your filters first and start from there.
Fuel problem. If you look in the owners manual, it tells you a check engine light means a fuel restriction. I had a problem on my 98 ocean pro, cause was a collaspe fuel hose.
Mark,
That is true for your carbureted motor but the Evinrude in question is a direct injected FICHT motor and there is no fuel restriction alarm on it.
On your Ocean Pro, the CHECK ENGINE light only means a fuel restriction. On a computer controlled FICHT (or E-TEC) outboard, the light has a number of meanings, just like the check engine light on your car or truck.
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I had a 2001 250hp, I agree it is either water in the fuel, and easy as replacing the small fuel filter on the port side of the engine. Or it could be a sensor. If you buy the book for that engine there is an easy way to find out. Disconnect the throttle linkage on the engine, hold it wide open with an elastic, turn on the key and the check engine light will blink out a code. Look up the code in the book and it will tell you what the alarm was for.
P.S. holding the throttle wide open at the helm will not work, has to be disconnected at the engine or it won't go far enough.
Sorry for the delayed reply - been on the road for work.
Trying to get my hands on a system check cable so I can pull the codes. Should have one tomorrow. If I can't, I'm going to try Striper's method.
As a proactive step, last weeked I replaced the racor between the tank and the engine. I also replaced the primer bulb and hose from the racor out to the engine. Went out for a while tonight and while running < 2K RPMs engine would intermittently run rough. Pump the primer bulb, engine improved.
Got back to the dock. Idled for a minute, check engine light comes on.
Thinking I may have multiple issues going on here:
Issue #1 - Per the Clymers manual, rough running engine getting better with a primer bulb pump indicates a bad diaphram pump.
Issue # 2 - Whatever is causing the check engine light.
Don't know if this sheds any new insight. If so, I'd be happy to hear it.
In the mean time, I'll post the codes as soon as I get the system check cable...
It will be the throttle position switch has turned faulty.
I had the same problem with my 150hp FICHT.
The alarm kept coming on when i'd change gears to dock or pull the anchor. When I restarted it, it would be fine, plane and drive well, and then come on again after changing gears at the dock.
It was a simple fix by replacing the TPS (a sensor) by my mechanic. Cost less than $100, and havn't had the problem since.
TPS and Shift assist are two completely different sensors. THe shitf assist is on the starboard side close to too the control cables. It has two wires coming from it One black and one black and yellow traser. Most likely shift shaft in gearcase is getting stiff. Will need to pull gearcase and clean and replace orings in shift shaft houseing.
Chances are that the shift assist switch is working OK, but somewhere in your motor's shift linkage is corrosion buildup and stiffness, causing the switch to trigger while shifting in or out of gear.
Common problems are salt buildup in the gearcase shift rod cover o-ring area. A new cover, about $27, helps eliminate the problem.
Another area that gets salt corrosion is the horizontal shift shaft bushings under the engine intake where the shift rod pin is fastened. Check the linkage over completely as corrosion can be in the links also.
A quick way to find the problem is to remove the shift cable from the motor and see if you can move the engine lever easily by hand.
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*... personally possessing more tools than talent !
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About 1 month prior to the code 28, someone told me they thought the shift shaft bushing was going.
They noticed some play in the throttle lever as you put the engine into / out-of gear. As a test, they disconnected the shift cable and their conclusion was the shift shaft bushing.
This guy was a Yamaha mechanic who self-admittedly never works on Envinrude. He told me that I WOULD NOT damage the engine if I continued to use it; shifting would just become increasingly difficult. Additionally, the solution was to drop the lower unit and replace the bushing.
Is this a correct assessment?
The boat is wet-slipped so I will have to haul it get it replaced. I just did this and really don't want to kill a day doing it again right now if I don't have to.
IF the problem is the shift assist sensor or switch, then the Yamaha guy was telling you right. You cannot damage it by using it. This is a case of "do we really need this warning?" In the old motors, they just got harder and harder to shift, and finally we looked and found out why.
Had the same issue/code with my 2000 150 ficht. Played with the linkage but the problem was the shift shaft bushing and corrosion in the foot. I replaced the bushing and cleaned up the shift shaft real well and that fixed the problem. You may still be able to run for a while but eventually mine got stuck in gear and I could not start the engine.....dang warning horn going off all the time was annoying as well.
About 1 month prior to the code 28, someone told me they thought the shift shaft bushing was going.
They noticed some play in the throttle lever as you put the engine into / out-of gear. As a test, they disconnected the shift cable and their conclusion was the shift shaft bushing.
This guy was a Yamaha mechanic who self-admittedly never works on Envinrude. He told me that I WOULD NOT damage the engine if I continued to use it; shifting would just become increasingly difficult. Additionally, the solution was to drop the lower unit and replace the bushing.
Is this a correct assessment?
The boat is wet-slipped so I will have to haul it get it replaced. I just did this and really don't want to kill a day doing it again right now if I don't have to.
Thanks.
IF the stiff linkage problem is in the horizontal shaft and bushing area, it can be fixed usually without pulling the boat out of the water by removing or loosening the stb side cover, air box and cable. If it is the gearcase shift rod 0-ring and bushing problem, then the gearcase has to be removed and then re-installed.
Talk to a trained tech about options.
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*... personally possessing more tools than talent !
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Hey guys,
Same problem with my 150 RAM (2001), check engine is beeping when i get the engine to idle for docking or anchoring. From your messages it sounds like the TPS, is it? Where can i get the shop manuals for these engines (E150FCXSIF)?
Cheers,
Pedrito
La Parguera
Puerto Rico
I had a similar problem with my 1999 175 FICHT. The info I found says that if the buzzer goes off befoe 30 seconds the problem has corrected itself but the engine computer has stored a code which you can have checked. Mine was due to diagnostic stuff I did looking for a bad relay. I had disconnected the relays and electrically powered the motor (did not start it) numerous times to determine conductivity. My motor did this twice right after I fixed the relay and has yet to do it again. Thay was 8 months ago. The explanation I got from a local Evinrude dealer was due to my powering the motor numerous times without everything "connected" and the motor finding a fault during its start-up.
If you have worked on it recently (or someone else has) this may be your problem.
Evinrude System Check - Check Engine Light 
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