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Old 03-27-2009, 03:26 PM
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Default 1987 Evinrude 110 HP

I have an opportunity to buy a boat that has a 1987 Evinrude 110HP motor. This rig is in like new condition and has been used very little since it was new. The original owner has always winterized the motor and the rig was always garaged. I have no worries about the boat, only the motor due to lack of use. I will be water testing the boat next week. Any info good/bad about this year motor would be appreciated. Any suggestions? Thanks----Dave
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Old 03-27-2009, 04:40 PM
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I had an 88 110 evinrude. It was a great motor not as good on gas as my 130 carbed yammi but not terrible. Have always heard they had a prob with dirt in the carbs only had that prob once and a tug boat wake fixed it lol. Other than that it was great. btw swapped to the yammi b/c it was a good deal and over 10 years newer.
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Old 03-27-2009, 05:50 PM
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Thanks for the reply anotherhassel. So far it doesnt seem as tho there is much interest in discussing an older motor.----Dave
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:05 PM
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Is the motor premix or VRO?
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:21 PM
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It has the VRO with remote tank. I know some guys like to disconnect the oil injection and just premix gas and oil just to be on the safe side. That is one of my concerns. The outboard has seen so little use I am worried about seals and gaskets being dry rotted. It is hard to pass up and old rig in such great condition, but I cant afford to repower at this time. I may just buy the rig as the boat is an awesome riding 19 footer. I previously owned one. -----Dave
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:54 PM
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Those were very, very good motors. (Though thirsty.) Given how good your deal is, you can probably afford a little gas. About the VRO disconnect, it's your call. Even if you decide to run the VRO, at the start I'd use mixed gas too, just as a precaution, until you see from the reservoir dropping that the VRO is in fact pumping oil.
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:12 PM
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I thought the 110 HP and 88 HP Johnson/Evinrude were the plain vanilla version of the 90 and 115 models using the older 90 degree engine block (vs the 60 degree design) and lacking oil injection thus requiring pre-mix. Correct me please.
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:31 PM
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My understanding is the motors with the SPL badging were not oil injected and p/t/t were an option. I do not think the 60 deg came along until the 90s. This motor is a 1987 90 deg oil inj w/p/t/trim. KeyPineSavage that is a good idea about pre mixing the fuel while verifying the VRO system is opperating.----Dave
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:32 PM
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The 110 hp is a good enough engine. The really weak point in these old engines is the tendency to build up carbon on the piston and stick the rings. Use a carbon inhibitor of some kind such as carbon guard or ring free and an occasional treatment with engine tuner. I'd disconnect the VRO if it were mine but to each his own.
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:35 PM
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I had a 79-- 85hp that you could not kill, sold it 3 yrs ago. expect its still running
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:44 PM
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Horsepen here is a link to a manual,it has some good info. Thanks to all who replied. http://books.google.com/books?id=okN...sult#PPA455,M1
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Old 03-28-2009, 08:48 AM
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We had some ethanol issues related with OMC VRO in the '80 ,so i think the best thing to do is premix .and keep your eyes on yours fuel lines.
If you don't have ethanol in your gasoline desconsider this.

Have a nice day
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:32 AM
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I have a 1989 Evinrude 140 looper. Things is loud and thirsty, but it just will not die. VRO still connected, but I think I will be going to premix.

I would not pay much for an engine of that age, but you have little to lose, and i may run another 10 years.

I would love to repower at some point, but I won't bother till this thing finally dies.
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:56 AM
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the 110 is a very good dependable engine.It is a thristy but the VRO of that vintage has held up well. The VRO got blamed for alot of problems not of it's own making.The only bad VRO was the original unit and the quit making those around 1985 or 86. They then cameout with the VRO II and in the early 90'S(93 I think) the OMS system. AS with any older engine get a certified tech to check the engine.
good luck
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:55 PM
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Thanks guys for all the replys. I am more confident about this motor now and will likely buy the rig. Time will tell. Thanks ------Dave
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Old 03-28-2009, 03:53 PM
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The block for this motor has been around since 1973 (99.6 cu. in)...OMC at one point or another built this motor as a 85, 88, 90 100, 110, 112, 115, 135 or 140. OMC also had fancy names for some of their motors at the time. Remember the Johnson "Javelin" - which was an 85 or 100 with Power Trim standard. The only thing that was different was the carbs and ignition.

The 88 and 112 were badged as "SPL" by OMC and did not have the VRO system.

From a reliability standpoint, you have to work hard to kill these motors. They are thirsty, and smoke like the dickens on startup, but they will run like a scalded dog. I personally have owned an 85, 90, 115 and 135 at one point or another.

VRO was added to these engines in '84...yes there were some problems although the two VRO motors I had of the mid-late 80's vintage ran perfectly and are still running today... I wouldn't rush to disconnect the system and go to pre-mix. I would however, check the pump and the screens in the tank. These were the two areas that led to problems.

The mid-80s loopers (110 cu. in) blocks were completely different animals. The best year for these motors was 1985 (the first year out.) That was the year they put the V6 gearcase on them. The 120 made well over 130 at the prop and the 140 over 150. We had a 120 on a 17 Mako and the boat ran close to 50 mph.
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:04 PM
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on the edge I belive you are from jersey pennsy pm me if you have anymore questions I may still have my manual if I do its yours if it is not to far for you. john
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Old 03-28-2009, 08:35 PM
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The 90 degree OMC V4 crossflow scavenged engines were the best outboards ever made. Essentially unchanged design from about 1957 to 1996. This is what Yamaha COPIED and infringed on OMCs patents to get into the outboard business.

Their only faults are hard to start when cold, idle is a bit less smooth than Id prefer, , and very very thirsty at WOT. Carbon buildup was not a big problem in these motors back then, clearances were not as tight. These motors were cheap, overbuilt, needed no maintenance, and basically lasted forever. Everything an outboard motor should be.

I have a 1973 johnson 6 that is the same way, I cleaned the carb ONCE in 36yrs, and it didnt even need it! I replaced the thermostat once too.

This is what outboards USED to be, before fuel economy and emission regulations turned them into to complicated, costly, and unreliable devices. You will not see todays complicated computerized outboards operating in 10-20 yrs, because it will not be cost-effective at some point to maintain them in operating condition.

I currently have a 95 112, and I once had a 1980 100 that we put near 2000 hrs on over 10 yrs and never cleaned or rebuilt a carb, or had a single issue with. On my 95 I have had to clean carbs, replaced rotor, powerpack, etc. It is still a great reliable motor though.

Disconnect the VRO and you dont have to worry about it. Once less thing that can kill the motor. Around here that motor would sell for $800-$1000

You will find much better feedback on older motors on the iboats motor forum than here.

Last edited by mbb; 03-28-2009 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:21 PM
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Nice post mbb. Less is more in most cases. I agree that the more things added the more chance of failure. It is also nice to be able to work on things yourself and not have to own the latest and greatest software programs to help diagnose problems. Some of the newer techologies are welcome till there is a problem. Then you need to have deep pockets and a knowlegable and trustworthy mechanic. I try to be as self sufficient as possible especially in todays economy. I think this turned out to be a pretty good thread------Dave
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:01 PM
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Default Disconnect the VRO

The 110 was a very good motor. As long as it checks out (compression within specs, no water/metal in gearcase, etc, basics) it should serve you well until you are ready to repower. I would do a couple of things if it were me, though. I would bypass the VRO and premix the fuel 50:1, I simply don't trust those old VRO pumps, no matter what everyone says. I have seen way too many blown motors from bad VROs. If you decide to not do this, then, as someone else recommended back aways, at least run a 50:1 mix along with the VRO for the first tank. When the motor sits that long, the extra oil can make a BIG difference...perhaps ALL the difference.
I would replace ALL the original fuel line with the new ethenol compatible stuff, for obvious reasons, even if you are lucky enough to not have it in your area, those old fuel lines are a problem waiting to happen! It's cheap insurance. Also, if there is not one already, install a 10 Micron fuel/water seperator between the motor and fuel supply...BEFORE the primer bulb. I aplogize if I may be repeating what some others have already covered, or, if I am telling you stuff you already know...just trying to be of some useful assistance. If the motor sat any length of time at all, as you have already indicated, I would (this is just me, but, sound advice to be sure) pull the carbs, soak them in carb cleaner...this is not hard to do yourself if you are mechanically inclined at all. Most all carb kits come with instructions, if you don't have carb cleaner, as most folks don't have it just laying around, many local auto shops, or marine service centers do have it & for a small fee will soak your carbs for you. Blow all the tiny passages & jets out with compressed air AFTER washing/rinsing with fresh water & be sure to use some good water pressure to help rinse out the jets, passages, etc. Install the new parts, a side note, I always get my carb kits from the dealer, I prefer factory brand stuff. You don't have to spend for factory brand, though. Many auto parts stores carry decent after market carb kits, NAPA AUTO PARTS is one that comes to mind. I always replace the floats IF they are at all the least bit deteriorated or questionable. Remember, even if the motor SEEMS to be running well, chances are, if it sat for any length of time, there may very well be some blockage from fuel/oil gum & varnish, or even a small bit of trash somewhere. It does not take but a wee bit of blockage for a cylinder to run lean and then hot & POOF! You have a burned cylinder/piston and the motor is shot.
The good thing, once you rebuild your carbs, and make sure you have a high quality fuel/water seperator (allot of folks here seem to like those Racor filters) you shouldn't need to mess with them again & you'll have peace of mind.
Oh, yeah, I would no doubt be sure to replace the waterpump AND the thermostat! Now, some folks may think some of the things I suggest (like carb rebuild & kits) is overkill, but, I'm just telling you the exact stuff I WOULD DO, based on MY prior experiences. To me, especially on a older motor that has not seen allot of use & sat up for extended lengths of time it simply is the ONLY way to go & know that the motor won't blow a powerhead because of something that could have been easily & fairly inexpensively (if you do the work yourself) avoided. a new set of spark plugs is always nice too GOOD LUCK TO YOU!:thumb sup:
Oh...and ONE MORE THING....I would invest in a bottle or two of Yamaha RING FREE. I would run the shock treatment dose per the instructions, then, the maintenance dose, at least every other tank. DON'T INSTALL NEW SPARK PLUGS UNTIL AFTER YOU SHOCK IT!! I won't go on anymore, I have already written a bookly post here, but, I will tell you based on MY personal experience that RING FREE does indeed work and VERY WELL! Anyone who says it's a gimmick is VERY, VERY wrong. Your motor will thank you!
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