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Old 03-11-2009, 09:07 AM
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Default Thru hull transducer install, best sealant to use?

Will be installing an Airmar B60 thru hull transducer soon. I plan on cutting the 2 3/8 hole then epoxying the exposed fiberglass(solid glass hull) before any installation. I was wondering whats the best sealant to use to waterproof and bed the transducer. I was thinking 3M4200 because I dont necessarily need the adhesive properties, just a watertight seal. Also I have heard of letting the sealant cure a bit before fully tightening the backing nut as to not force all the sealant out.Let cure some then tighten nut? Is this correct. just want to do this install the right way. Thank you for any info or instruction on this matter.
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:09 AM
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There are probably many dfferent ways to do it, but I like 4200 because you can get it apart without dynamite. I put the transducer in and snug the nut down, but not completely tight. I also make sure there is no 4200 under the nut or on the threads between the nut and the shank. Once the sealant has sat for a couple days, I remove the nut, put sealer on the surface where the nut will sit and then re-install it so the sealer bonds the nut in place as well.
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:49 AM
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Why take a chance on your boat sinking? Use 3M 5200 Fastcure let it set up 24 Hours.
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:13 PM
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With a solid glass hull, you don't need to seal the hole with epoxy. Just put it in place with a really good bead of 5200 inside & out, and leave it a little loose (1/8" in & out) for 24 hours, then tighten it 1/2 a turn with a wrench - once it fully hardens, it will never leak.
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI32 View Post
With a solid glass hull, you don't need to seal the hole with epoxy. Just put it in place with a really good bead of 5200 inside & out, and leave it a little loose (1/8" in & out) for 24 hours, then tighten it 1/2 a turn with a wrench - once it fully hardens, it will never leak.

And what happens if you need to change it?
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:35 PM
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5200 isn't really permanent. In fact, there was recently a guy on the 'barn who successfully removed his thru hull 'ducer that was installed using 5200 years ago.
I forget what the product is called, but 3M makes it and it is specifically used to break down 5200 and other sealants.
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:14 PM
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^^^^^

Anti-Bond.

Available at your favorite marine supply store.

It works!



After having to remove a few thru-hulls that were installed using 5200 (not by me), I will only use 4200.
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:02 PM
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4200 is just fine for a thruhull. Also as mentioned if it is solid glass, there is no need for epoxy. You can put a liberal bead on the tranducer, enough so it will basically seal the entire hole from the outside in.

Use some 3M blue tape on the head of transducer and also around the outer flange on the hull. It will make clean up real easy. Somewhere around here, Jim from BOE had a great post about taping and installing a transducer making for very easy clean up.
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:14 PM
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I did find one thread but it wasn't regarding the 'install'. If anyone can find it, please post the link.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-e...ucers-faq.html
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:17 PM
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5200!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin_NJ View Post
I did find one thread but it wasn't regarding the 'install'. If anyone can find it, please post the link.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-e...ucers-faq.html

Here it is.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-e...0-install.html
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:54 PM
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My opinion, I would never use 5200 on something I needed to possibly remove in the future. You need a sealer, not an adhesive. My preference is BoatLife, I don't care for any of the strong adhesives for thruhulls.
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:08 PM
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I love to see people use 5200 on things like transducers... I just chuckle when I think of the guy trying to remove it later.

Transducers go bad, or they become "old Technology". 5200 tends to remove the gel coat and the fiberglass when removed. And the 5200 remover.... What a waste in my opinion. I'm gonna pay top dollar for a sealant to hold something and then pay for another product to remove it? I don't think so...

I have installed many thru-hulls and transducers with 4200. No problem with leaking and no problem when I have to remove them.

I have yet to hear of any boat sinking due to the use of "something other then 5200".

Boat yards will use 5200 because they never have to remove what they have installed, and if they do, they get paid by the hour.
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Old 03-11-2009, 04:20 PM
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I've removed a couple of tranducers that were installed with 5200. It's not the end of the world but does take a while. You have to separate the ducer head from the bottom of the hull mechanically by driving a putty knife in between them. The 2015 anti-bond doesn't soak in too well and mostly desolves the 5200 surface. I only use it for cleanup after the job is done. Quck cure 4200 should be fine with with an advertised 50% of the grab of 5200. I never removed a ducer installed with 4200 but it's bound to be easier than 5200.
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:25 PM
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5200 = code word for F%&k the next guy.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:22 AM
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I just removed a transducer that must have been installed with 5200. I had to do what epanzella posted regarding the putty knife. The entire space of the fairing block and the hull was also filled with 5200 which would not give. I had to slowly turn the transducer out with a big pipe wrench. It took the strenth of 2 to get it moving. Once it was out, you could see the 5200 made a perfect seal around the threads like a giant NUT inside the hole.

The new one is being installed with 4200.
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Old 04-01-2009, 04:37 PM
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I have installed hundreds of transducers (as well as thru-hulls etc.) using 3M920 and have never had problems with leaks. Removal is not as difficult as 3M5200 or similar sealant/adhesives.
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:24 PM
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4200 on the flange outside the hull. Just enough to seal around the flange itself.

Block the ducer against the hull using a jack and block of wood for about two days to let the 4200 begin to cure.

Once that is done and set. Seal along the inside edge of the hole and first few threads with an aquarium grade silicone sealant. Put the nut and gasket on while the silicone still wet and tighten down firm. Finally, seal the gasket and nut threads with additional silicone.

If you use harsh chemicals to clean the bilge, watch the silicone for damage. otherwise just have fun.
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Old 04-03-2009, 05:05 AM
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http://www.airmartechnology.com/uplo.../17-008-05.pdf
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Old 04-03-2009, 05:54 AM
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You don't need to seal the edge of the glass with epoxy.

You can use any sealant that is designated for underwater use. It doesn't really matter. They all work. Just be sure to put plenty on. Put a good bead on the flange and up the stem to inside the hull. You want to have sealant squeeze out all around. Also put a bead on the inside of the hull where the nut mates. This will insure a leak proof seal.

You can do the whole operation in one session. Tighten the nut firmly and clean up the sealant. First use a plastic squeegee to remove the excess then wipe with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. You don't have to worry about trying to form a gasket and then finish tightening the nut the next day. Urethane sealants don't shrink so you can eliminate an unnecessary step.

Let the sealant cure for the proper amount of time before putting the boat in the water. If you want to speed the cure, mist a little water on the sealant every hour or so. Urethanes cure with moisture. Just remember the surface will feel cured but the interior sealant will take longer.

I've done (or been in charge of) literally thousands of installs of thru hull fittings and transducers and the only times I've ever seen leaks is when there isn't enough sealant or when the boat is put back in the water to soon and the sealant blows out.

For anyone trying to remove a fitting they suspect was installed with 5200, there are two things that will ease the process - steady pressure and/or heat. If you can put steady pressure on the fitting, the 5200 will yield eventually. Heat will also make 5200 release it's tenacious grip. heating the part with a heat gun to 140-150 degrees will allow the pat to come loose. Just be careful that you don't get the surrounding fiberglass to hot. If you can combine heat and pressure, so much the better.
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