Laying down a new floor? - The Hull Truth

endeem · 03-07-2009, 07:27 PM

I am about to start replacing my floor on my 19' baymaster. I have read so much since I decided to take it on. I have seen a lot about leaving a 2-3" lip around the outside to lay the floor on to and to build up the stringers but I think this has been done to the boat once before. Do I do it again or cut the floor all the way out? Thanks in advance for any info.

mobjack22 · 03-07-2009, 08:22 PM

I did a 19 ft boat years ago. I left a 1" lip but did not place new floor on it but flush with it. New floor sits right on stringers.

LouC · 03-07-2009, 08:40 PM

When I did my 20' Four Winns I left a lip all the way around and built up a shelf under that lip, so the new deck was just dropped into place where the original one was, and no changes had to be made to the height of the stringers. I think it's easier doing it that way because you can use the 'glassed in edge already there from the original floor.

prockvoan · 03-08-2009, 06:35 AM

The problem with just a drop in is there is no true way to glass the under side of the new decking in to place unless you do it in sections.If the decking has been replaced before,leave 5"-6".From there,you can always go back and cut again.Check out under the boating fourm.I doing one now with pictures.Feel free to contact me if you need any info.

endeem · 03-09-2009, 07:30 AM

Thanks for the info. I am going to start this coming weekend. - Mike

KJS · 03-09-2009, 08:47 AM

You might want to check out classicmako.com and classicaquasport.com. Many projects like yours are documented there with pictures.

relentlesspursuit · 03-09-2009, 09:48 AM

Endeem, check out the guys at www.boatbuildercentral.com, they have a great forum for folks doing DIY rebuilds. Also, see their thread on the Aquasport rebuild.

gerg · 03-09-2009, 12:14 PM

MAS Epoxies website has a quick video on how to patch a soggy deck (on a boat, there is no floor... lol).

They also cover transom repairs.

Good luck, but just remember it will end up being a much bigger job than it looks or sounds now.

baitkiller · 03-09-2009, 12:32 PM

Doing a 24 Morgan right now. I left a 3" perimeter and cut it out in dead straight lines of 4' wide makes no head scratching when fitting new panels. New deck goes down over deck beams. Dry fit all panels with 1/4" clearance. Pull back up and flip over. Coat bottom of panels with a layer of CSM and seal edges. Fit down onto the deck beams with Plexus. No screw holes. Zero. Tab the edges with 10" cloth tape then cover the whole thing in two layers of CSM. Even over the tape to smooth the edges. Utilitarian maybe but strong as hell and will never rot. This is for a plywood deck.

endeem · 03-10-2009, 10:42 AM

Thanks again for all of the advice. I started taking the console out last night but I am still slightly confused with the bottom of the floor.

I have heard of numerous ways to do the bottom side of the wood and how to attach it. I have been told to paint it with under-coater paint so the would would be waterproof but be able to breath. I have also seen a majority say to glass a single layer of mat on the bottom. What are the pro's and con's? Second, I have read through different rebuilds where half have glued the floor down with screws and half without. Screws seems easier but can you completely seal them in?

roo2 · 03-10-2009, 10:55 AM

endeem,
For the underside of the sole (floor) simply apply several coats of epoxy. Use a real epoxy (West System, System Three, Silvertip, MAS, etc...) not polyester resin. Several coats of epoxy will seal the wood for a VERY long time. Make sure you coat all surfaces though. To attach the sole simply apply a thick "bead" of thickend epoxy on top of your stringers. Once you lay the sole down place weight on it but NOT TOO MUCH! Too much can and will squeeze your thickend epoxy out. You want that stuff in there. Just add enough weight to keep the sole flat and epoxy securly touching the stringers. After a day of drying time you should go around the new sole and lip (if you leave one in) and use a 6" or larger biaxial glass cloth. I like 12oz for most applications. Simply wet out the cloth so you have no seam. THis will ensure a strong seamless bond. Once this dries you will have to do some fairing with fairing compound to make this smooth and pretty. However any other way will probably lead to you cracking the floor later. On top of the sole add a layer of wide cloth or add more epoxy. Sand then fair...