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Random Quote: No matter how you measure it-dumbass is expensive! (LSC-101)
I posted this a week ago and noone engaged! But I called it by its wrong name. This Groco Kit looks nice for Inboard Flushing and Emergency Bilge pumping.
This particular kit has the attachment that you see on the side of the photo, you slip this into the unit and attach a hose for siphoning anti freeze into the engine. Now if your saying that the volume of a 5/8 garden hose is not enough water and possibly burn impellers on the water pump, ?? could be I guess.
I'm using for winterizing, not flushing if that matters
I run my engines (Yanmar 315's) on the Groco SSC all the time, zero issues with water flow. The gpm from a garden hose at normal pressure is more than enough to keep your engine happy at idle speeds. I have run on the hose for up to 20 minutes and by feeling around every part of the engine, coolers and exhaust everything remains very cool to the touch. Of larger concern is having 40psi on the water pump seals without the engine running. Remember, this is a solid conection with zero leakage so hose pressure builds up almost immediately to the salt water pump and they are not designed for 40 psi inlet pressures. I installed a pressure regulator on the end of the garden hose to limit max 10-12 psi on the downstream side of the regulator. With the engine running it opens wide (full flow) but when you shut down it immediately regulates back to low pressure. If you had two people doing the flush the regulator would not be required. The regulator runs about $40. http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/im...H560wGauge.jpg
For winterizing I don't rely on sucking the anti-freeze through a garden hose and share the concern that gravity feed/water pump suction through a 5/8 hose may not be enough flow. I have a winterizing kit I made that uses a garden hose discharge via pump so the flow remains high. It works just like flushing through the SSC except I am supplying pressurized anti-freeze mix from my winterization pump. Groco shows that set-up on their website. If anyone is interested in the winterization kit I put together let me know and I'll get you pics and part numbers. It's pretty simple and cost about $80 (mainly the pump).
Mike- check Defender for prices, I found them lowest when I was shopping. Make sure you know the correct size.
Installed the Groco SSC a number of years ago - use it regularly for flushing my Yanmar 4LHA, and winterizing. The SSC came in handy last summer when I cleaned my cooling circuit with Rydlyme. I was able to use the fitting with a pump assembly to circulate the cleaning solution through the engine, sans the impeller.
I have a hose/ strainer assembly stored in the bilge adjacent to use the SSC as a backup bilge pump should I sustain a leak or primary bilge pump failure.
My custom builder was impressed with the SSC installation, he has since installed one on his personal boat and includes on all new/ repowers.
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"Never approach a dock faster than you can afford to hit it!"
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Another question that will save me 3 hr drive to the boat. I have a 1-1/4" ID water line. Any idea what thread size my seacock is?
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Another question that will save me 3 hr drive to the boat. I have a 1-1/4" ID water line. Any idea what thread size my seacock is?
WOAH....Mike if you are 100% sure what the hose size is that is all you need as far as the Groco goes. The threaded end is what it is and Groco does not make variations. Bottom line is you are trying to match the correct size SSC to your hose not your seacock threads. Now in MOST cases it will all work out as manufacturer's should be matching hose size to valve size to minimize the amount of fittings but sometimes there are exceptions with reducers, reducing elbows etc. If you have one of those mixed size situations you will have to adapt accordingly with a marine bronze fitting. Bottom line is you have to satisfy the hose ID no matter what.
Groco SSC sizes are only 3/4" through 3" where one side is National Pipe Thread (NPT) and the other side is the barb (hose inside diameter), but both are always the same size with no "reducing" model available.
if your hose ID is really 1 1/4" ID then you need:
SSC-1250 which is Male 1.25" NPT on one side and a barb for 1.25" inside diameter hose on the other
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Another question that will save me 3 hr drive to the boat. I have a 1-1/4" ID water line. Any idea what thread size my seacock is?
WOAH....Mike if you are 100% sure what the hose size is that is all you need as far as the Groco goes. The threaded end is what it is and Groco does not make variations. Bottom line is you are trying to match the correct size SSC to your hose not your seacock threads. Now in MOST cases it will all work out as manufacturer's should be matching hose size to valve size to minimize the amount of fittings but sometimes there are exceptions with reducers, reducing elbows etc. If you have one of those mixed size situations you will have to adapt accordingly with a marine bronze fitting. Bottom line is you have to satisfy the hose ID no matter what.
Groco SSC sizes are only 3/4" through 3" where one side is National Pipe Thread (NPT) and the other side is the barb (hose inside diameter), but both are always the same size with no "reducing" model available.
if your hose ID is really 1 1/4" ID then you need:
SSC-1250 which is Male 1.25" NPT on one side and a barb for 1.25" inside diameter hose on the other
Thanks, Very Informative.
Yes, I do have 1 1/4" ID hose. I took both off my boat when I winterized, because they are in need of replacement with some dry cracks. Don't like messin' with an 1 1/4" hole in the boat
I've got the water lines in my house. So no question there.
I've been eyeballing these.... EXCEPT, I don't like the ball vavle on both sides. I only want one ball valve, with a garden hose type connector on it, so I can leave the strainer on for emergency pumping, or remove it and put a another hose on to winterize with.
My Yanmar has 1 3/4" hose, and my seacock is 2", screwed into my 2" seacock femal threads is a 2" male threaded pipe with a 1 3/4" hose barb on the other side. I'm trying to figure out how to stick one of these in between.
Not only that, but couldn't I build that in about an hour in the hardware store? I think I could put that together and still look professional.
I like this idea over the other one only because I can place this higher on the intake so I can reach the ball valve in case of emergency. Possibly directly below the strainers?
I looked at the Groco last year, just didn't really like the plug design. Question is a garden hose size adaptor sufficient to flush or run antifreeze through a gas big block or diesel?
Thoroflush used to make a design that had a valve directly in the cap so not so many pieces. Have seen some homemade by just buying a replacement strainer top like this. Basically was thinking build one and just use to winterize when necessary.
Cause that type only goes up to 1 1/4" for smaller engines. I called the vendor posted above and asked if they had that type (single T instead of double T) larger in 2", and they said no, you had to buy the Diesel one, and remove the ball valve on the side and just install a plug.
I'm going to Home depot tonight to see if I can't dig up these parts to make it my self.
Foget homedepot. BUT, Blackman pluming had everything to do it, and for 1/2 the cost. Just picked up 2 sets of everything for a total of $213. Less than the price of ONE of the Marine Tech prefab units.
Includes:
- 2" nipple (2" NPT male on both sides), this will screw into my exising 2" ball valve, and allow for next item...
- 2" T by 1" (2" npt on both sides, with a 1" npt coming off the side for the bypass/flush.
- 1" x 3/4" bushing (basically a reducing nipple from the 1" T, to 3/4" size I need.
- 3/4" ball valve (to shut off the bypass/flush side of T).
- 3/4" nipple (3/4" npt male on both sides), to connect 3/4 ball valve above to next item...
- 3/4" npt to 3/4" garden hose adapter. Connects above to leave me a garden hose connection.
So you could easily do this with any other size thru hull/sea cock/ ball valve. Just replace the first 2 items with the proper sized T, if you ball valve/seacock is 1 1/2", get a 1 1/2" by 1" T, and a 1 1/2" nipple instead. The rest would remain.
Now you can winterize, and fresh water flush at the twist of two ball valves anytime. Or use as a emergecy crash pump if needed.
Groco Flush Kit (pic) Anyone install?
