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I need to cut back some of my battery cables from the battery switch to the battery.
The positive cable wiggles with movement while the lug is tight and secure on the battery post. I'm sure when I disconnect it, the corrosion will be quite evident. Inermittently when the boat wouldn't start, my buddy held that cable firm and it started right up. Not the full power / voltage getting to the starter I'm guessing?
The cables are only 2 yrs old I think, as I felt this was a good preventive measure and previously had it done, but I guess maybe those "pre-made" cables were poor quality.
I also saw something in another post about the cables "sucking up acid " from a "leaking" battery? Maybe I'll have to look at this as well.
I need to re-do that one cable end anyway as it's obviously no good.
My problem now is that it damn near impossible to get to the back of my battery switch. I would love to be able to cut the cables back (as I have the extra length) and just know those big lugs are tough to crimp down on - especially in tight quarters and away from a workbench. I heard from somewhere a technique similar to a soldering job to join the battery cable and lug. Anyone know if that is an acceptable option for doing the cables?
Here's a quote I did find from an older thread on here "Instead of crimpimg the end , Napa hes a compresion type , a bti pricey but far superior and reusable" What's this method about? Also a possible option?
Mario,
There are a number of people here who will say that you need to crimp AND solder the terminals. No need to solder. Cut back to the length you want, buy the proper size lugs as well a some adhesive lined shrink-sleeving, RENT the crimper from Autozone or whomever, crimp your lugs, heat the shrink-sleeving, and your done.
Others will give you a volume, nay, a tome of additional things to do. You know what? BS. This works.
And then spray some anti-corrosion spray on the lugs and terminals of your battery. Your good to go.
You're right, most of those premade cables are not very good quality. I prefer marine grade tined conductors ( the wires will appear silver) and tined lugs but lots of boats are running around with less. You may need to cut the cables back a fair distance before you get nice clean shiny wire. 250 Osprey gave good advice, solder also works, but for either you need clean and shiny conductor and a clean lug.
I always solder my cables - its easy to do, all you need to do is put the connector in a vice grip, heat the connector with a torch, fill it with solder and keep heating, then insert the wire, remove the ehat and let cool. I then seal it with heat shrink tubing - I have cable that are more than 10 years old and still have zero resistance. I use nothing but Anchor brand tinned cable andcopper connectors.
be sure to use tinned marine grade cabling,not the cheap copper automotive stuff-there's a big difference in wiring-marine grade will appear to be silver in color,the marine grade will also have finer strands than the cheap automotive cabling.cheaply built boat use automotive wire-aquasport did,wellcraft still does...
i use a crimping tool,it's the best approach to use,i never solder,it's not reccomended,due to the vibration a boat will encounter-i like the ancor heat shrink...i reccomend you do whatever you have to do to replace the cabling,"cutting it back" is asking for trouble-do it once,the right way...
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don't try this at home....i'm a profesional......
i know it's misspelled-it's a joke...get it???
jim anderson jimmy's marine service llc
a 5 star wrenchin' whore !!!
Crimp only. Heat from resistance can melt solder. ABYC standards require mechanical connection (crimp). Cable cutters for battery cable look similar to garden lopper only smaller, cost $25 or so. You can buy at big orange box store (electrical dept) or auto parts store might have them.
Proper crimping tool for battery lugs are a bit steep. I think mine cost about $140 eight or ten years ago. Haven't priced them since.
Definitely use tinned copper battery cable and tinned, closed end lugs. Cover joint with adhesive heat shrink.
Can't you remove the battery switches to access the terminals?
Thanks for that 250. Next question, what's best to cut the wire back with? I only have smaller tools.
Mario
If you or a neighbor have a bolt cutter (like what you cut padlocks with). That will work, too. If space is cramped and you can't use the long-handled crimper, find a repair shop that has the small steel crimper that uses a 3 pound sledge to drive the crimper onto the eye.
CRC is good, Corrosion X is good, too.
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Rick
VOR ocean race Hooter Scooter
Chaparral Signature Cruiser
I always solder my cables - its easy to do, all you need to do is put the connector in a vice grip, heat the connector with a torch, fill it with solder and keep heating, then insert the wire, remove the ehat and let cool. .
That just about guarantees a cold solder joint (a joint where all the components are not heated hot enough to allow the solder to flow and bond with the components). You have to continue heating after inserting the wire until the solder "flows". You will see it begin to flow up the wire. It helps to "tin" the wire first with solder but you cannot use a torch, it will oxidize the conductors. Soldering is somewhat of an art and if you're not experienced, your boat's battery cables are not a good place to learn.
If using vice grips to hold the lug, the vice grips will act as a heat sink. Better to clamp the lug between two scraps of wood.
I have heard, but not confirmed, that some West Marine stores will crimp the lugs for you if you buy the lugs and cable from them. The suggestion to use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing over the connections is a good one. Just remember to slip it on before you attach the lugs.
I bought new battery cables from West a year or two ago, and they will not crimp the lugs for you. The store I was in, however, did let me use their crimper. The employee told me they couldn't do it for liability reasons, but using their crimper saved me a lot of money & trouble.
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"NO, Daddy, we can't buy another boat" - Emily
I bought new battery cables from West a year or two ago, and they will not crimp the lugs for you. The store I was in, however, did let me use their crimper. The employee told me they couldn't do it for liability reasons, but using their crimper saved me a lot of money & trouble.
I like Pacer also. Recently I needed some #4 to hook up a inverter west marine price was $5.69 a foot I ordered Pacer cable from GeuninedealZ.com and it was $1.60 per foot identical cable as the Anchor West sells and they have free shipping. I'm not affiliated with them just trying to pass on a good deal.
,the marine grade will also have finer strands than the cheap automotive cabling.cheaply built boat use automotive wire-aquasport did,wellcraft still does...
...
You have know idea what yor talking about. Every Wellcraft and Aquasport I have seen is wired with marine grade wire and are not cheaply made. Just because a boat doesn't have Contender or Regulator on the side doesn't make it low quality.
Thanks Guys- I may just buy premade cables. I saw (in another thread) that Genuinedealz has decent looking stuff for this . Went to the site and they will assemble too. What sized holes will I need in the lugs?? Same size both ends for the batt switch and batt posts? 3/8"? 1/4" do these have to be a tight fit onto the posts?
Do I buy their tinned-copper or their tinned "heavy wall" lugs?
I'm not sure of the size cable I have either ,(it's not too large of a size) and it's a short piece, maybe 2 ft. I will have them made at 3ft. For use with a 150 O/B motor.
Cutting Back Battery Cable???
