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I recently purchased a 2000 Pursuit 30 Offshore with twin 2002 Yamaha F225 everything looks and runs great but at low speeds my starboard motor runs hot. I changed the t-stats checked the water pump impeller etc. all new as per the previous owner stated, checked pressure relief valve looks good. Called Yamaha said bring to a dealer. Not really in budget with Holidays and all. Does anyone have some suggestions? My local dealer mentioned something about an adapter plate but that means pulling the power head which for me is the last resort!
when you say it runs hot at slow speeds, how slow is slow? one of my F225's was idling at 550 rpm. after awhile, the temp alarm would go off. it seems that at that low rpm, the engine doesn't get enough cooling water circulating. simple solution: up the idle to around 650, no more overheating.
When I run out to a fishing spot and throttle down off plane and troll around after a few minutes I will get the alarm. My rpms at idle are around 600-700 rpm. I physically touched the heads on each motor and my starboard motor was considerably hotter. I have not used a thermo gun to read temp yet, but my guess is around 200 F. Has anyone heard about or dealt with any issues with these adapter plates that my local Dealer is talking about?
Does not seem like to many suggestions with this problem. Time to remove the powerhead and take a look at this so called adapter plate. Any suggestions or steps I should or should not do when attempting this procedure.
My neighbor just got his Hydra Sport w/triple Yam F225's back after 3 months in the shop! This model Yamaha apparently is having an issue with the mid-section exhaust ports corroding and causing the overheat condition. Yamaha replaced all three under warranty but it took quite awile. The tech said no amount of flushing seems to prevent the issue. He is going to be using salt away from now on and hopes that will curtail the problem.
__________________ USCG 100 TON MASTER
Pursuit 2870 CC
Palm Beach 161
1984 Mckee Craft 14'
Sunset on the ICW
Madeira Beach, Fl
Honeymoon Harbor
Bimini
"Many times life gives you the test, before you learn the lesson!"
Everyone wants to go for the obvious most complicated repair. Do you have water pressure guages? Did you check that all 12 spark plugs are the same? Did you actually change the impellor or just check it? Maybe an internal zink broke off and is clogging a passageway. Is one head hotter than the other? Does the motor overheat at idle when using muffs? How about flushing the motor with muriatic acid as someone else suggested in another thread? Assuming you won't get reimbursed under warranty, your looking at 2+ grand for a job like that. Keep at it and try more simple stuff.
The motor runs great and cool when opened up over 2000 rpm, so further tested should not do any damage. I checked the water pump all looked brand new even still had new grease on bolts and such. When I looked up the exhaust when I had lower unit dropped I can see alot of corrison and actual piece of exhaust guide missing about half way up. Have not tried running with muffs but, will check head temps with thermo reader, and check spark plugs. Motors ran fine for first 4-5 trips than all of a sudden started to get that overheat alarm when I plan down and troll around or idle. Motors have 450 hours on them. I bought everything to change impeller etc. but when saw condition of the one that is on the motror - brand new (maybe 40 hours on it) and decided that it could not be the problem.
Would the poppit valve be the same as the pressure relief valve that closes at low rpm and opens when pressure increases, if so I already checked it. From what I understand about an F225 is it has a simple cooling system a water pump (impeller etc), thermostats, pressure relief valve, and plates and jackets to direct the water. So then I ask myself why is it that I can not figure it out?
I would not have the powerhead pulled just yet. If you can do it yourself and feel confident replace the waterpump. Do not just repleace the impeller. Replace the plastic housing as well. The plastic housings deform or melt if they have been run on a flusher incorrectly or too long. Don't take the previous owners word for it that the waterpumps have been replaced. Sometimes people do lie to sell boats and other things. Also to check for an obstruction while the lower unit is off remove the thermostats and put a garden hose up to the water pump tube in the midsection. You should be able to flow water right through the powerhead without creating a lot of pressure. If the hose develops a ton of pressure you know there is an obstruction somewhere, however that would show up as a high speed overheat as well. Good luck
I dropped the lower unit and checked out the water pump - the housing the impeller it all looks great still had fresh grease on bolts and o-rings. Again I did notice the Exhaust guide look in bad shape , don't know if this is a sign of adapter plate or some deeper issues.
o yeah what be the wrong way to flush? I put the hose on with the attachment that comes out of the motor and run for couple minutes then just let it flush with the hose water pressure. Good advice I will certainly try the hose flush in midsection with t-stats removed and check water flow. Thank you!!!
look at the housing again. Take the metal insert out of it. You will notice some deformed plastic if it is melted. The housing does not come in the kit and people usually do not replace it. If that housing is melted even slightly that engine will not get enough water at low speeds just like you are describing. Its good maintenance and another check before you go pulling the trigger on a powerhead removal.
Makes alot of sense, I will remove lower unit again and replace that plastic housing and impeller kit since I already have it. Great advice with checking water flow with t-stats removed and a hose on the midsection tube that the water pump connects to. Thank you!!! did not if you saw my edit to the prevvious response.
I have heard of two situations identical to mine and it turned out to be an internal port and adapter plate issue. Yamaha claims not an issue, but will see how it all turns out and if any other motors have same problem.
Jack, the symptoms you have described are identical to my neighbors problems. If you would like I will ask him this weekend if it is ok to give you his phone number and he can relate his experience to you and maybe help in getting Yamaha to own up to the problem.
__________________ USCG 100 TON MASTER
Pursuit 2870 CC
Palm Beach 161
1984 Mckee Craft 14'
Sunset on the ICW
Madeira Beach, Fl
Honeymoon Harbor
Bimini
"Many times life gives you the test, before you learn the lesson!"
o yeah what be the wrong way to flush? I put the hose on with the attachment that comes out of the motor and run for couple minutes
Are you talking about hooking to the hose that comes out of the bottom of the motor? I was told not to run the motor when doing this only when using the muffs. Is that correct or was I told wrong? Thats if the 2 strokes and the 4 have the same type of flushing system
signmansez any help with Yamaha would be greatly appreciated. When I 1st heard of internal plate and corrision issue I contacted Yamaha they said nothing they can do, to far out of warranty, but 2 similiar stories I heard about Yamaha stepped up and took care of. My local tech said bring to him and he can probably get Yamaha to at least pay for parts but labor ?? can be $1000 plus per motor. ouch !!Would like commitment from Yamaha that if it is this internal corrsion problem that they will cover it.
Palm Harbor and Salt Springs, FL
2000 3070 Pursuit Offshore twin 2002 Yamaha F225
2006 Smokercraft pontoon F40 Honda
2006
Lunkerlure I thought that I can hook up hose to attachment that comes out under the upper motor case and run motors to flush, did not know if need ear muffs. Does running motors hooked up to factory flush attachment cause any issues????
2002 Yamaha F225 running hot 
