*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
I have an old Fiber Form runabout that has a rotten floor. I have a 125 on the back. The boat sat on a lake and was just a boat to go fishing. The transom doesn’t flex to bad but moves about ½ inch if I push on it hard. I started to pull the floor up with my hands it is very rotten and found the bottom of the boat has foam in the bottom that is soaked. My plan is to replace the floor. With that said should I put new foam back in? I know the foam offers some floatation if the boat fills with water but the boat is only used in protected water ways. I am wondering because of the boats age and neglect should I look at replacing the transom as well? The boat was my grandfathers so it has some emotional ties that is why I want to clean the boat up. I have seen people clean out the old wood in a transom and then re-pour the transom with liquid foam, is the foam a good option? Is the foam very heavy and I should look at other options? I can post some photos if anyone needs to look at the boat before making any solutions?
So if I do replace the floor and the transom what order do I do the work? Does it matter? Is one part easier to do first?
Replaceing the floor and stringers along with the foam is fairly straighforward although it is not cheap and is itchy sweaty work. The transom is a little trickier but you can still do it.
There was a thread last year by a guy who completely rebuilt his boat. He did an excellent job of showing the exact methods and why it needed to be done that way. Tons of pictures with the explanations as well. Maybe someone can remember who he was. I think he was a dentist.
You can either rewood the transom or use the pour in place--since you are completely re-doing the boat, I would do the wooden transom. Cut out the old glass on the inside, remove the old wood, put in new marine plywood (saturated with epoxy, and using epoxy mish mash to put it in place, then reglass the transom, put in the new floor and stringers--again with marine ply and epoxy saturated--glass inside and out. Then paint the floor with non skid.
There is a fellow on here who goes by "Ringleader" and who has totally redone a Mako 261. Top notch work and excellent photos and posts describing the work. Here is a link to his project: http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/t...103608&start=1
Not sure how to link it, but copy and paste and prepare to be amazed.
Also check out the Classic Mako website, he is on there as well as another guy who frequents this site going by "Warthog." These two guys projects are what got me hooked on this site and looking at the other.
Do a little searching, and enjoy. Not sure if there is one right way to do things, but these guys certainly seem to be doing it right.
Good luck with your project. Be sure to take plenty of before, during and after pictures and post them. It will help keep you on track as well!
__________________ "All bad precedents begin with justifiable measures."
Julius Caesar
Okay new idea? What if I take the boat apart, the deck from the hull? If I take the cap off would the fixes end up looking better? Thank you all for the help you have given.
Probably. If there wasnt a gap around the edges it should match up as good as the original deck. If you have any doubts, make a dummy out of something cheap like corrugated cardboard.
Good luck!
__________________ I'm not a boat expert, I just read THT!
So I just got the motor running today. I was going to pull the motor off tomorrow and start the project. I think I should be able to get most of the floor out tomorrow.
Step 1) Remove the floor, exposing stringers.
Step 2) Remove the transom.
Step 3) Inspect stringers for structural integrety.
Step 4) Glass in new transom. Build "knees" at aft end of stringers to tie into the transom.
Step 5) Glass in new floor. Use polyester putty to bond floor to stringers, or 3" SS screws into the stringers.
There should be no need to un-deck the boat. Simple as that!
Small new problem... I got the motor running last night, but I am having problems with the choke. The choke solenoid is not working with the button switch? I was going to start by looking for a wire short. Is there a way to check the solenoid for working order? Can I hook it up to a 9V to see if it moves? I don't know much more than to turn a key when it comes to motors. Thank you all for the help.
Well if figured out the choke problem, now I have a new one. I don't know how to get the engine off? I have added some photos hoping that I'm missing something quick. I thought all I needed to do was put an eye down the fly wheel. The problem is the fly wheel has a nut on top of it not a hole? Please help I'm sure there is a very easy thing to do.
Many people don't read past the original post. This is why you may see the same answer repeatedly in the same thread. As you develop new situations you may wish to start a new post. This will allow "experts" on that subject to see there is something in their domain to comment on.
Good luck!
__________________ I'm not a boat expert, I just read THT!
What comes first the transom or the floor? 
