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I have wet exhausts on my boat that run the length of the cockpit, and like all diesels, I am getting some soot buildup on the hull each time out. I'm good about scrubbing as I get into port, but I just can't keep up with it
Anyone have any tips on what I can use to at least cut down the amount of time to clean the soot off?? Any magic cleaners out there that I haven't tried? At this point the only thing that keeps it as clean as I want is to compound and wax it once every two weeks or so, and it's getting tiring!Below is a photo of what the exhaust ports look like.. they are the small holes pointed down.
Thanks,
Ryan
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Lets have a Sexy Party! 38 Henriques FB 2000 ~ 17 Montauk 1978
I use soft scrub, but I know it takes the wax off. A diesel will make black smoke if it's not getting enough air or if it is swinging to much prop. Does it turn up to the rated RPM? On a different note - the exhaust holes look to be drilled through plywood which is below the waterline. Should those holes be sealed somehow?
As far as the mechanical end of things, I'm ok... I have new heat exchangers and turbos this season, as well as all new filters. The holes are solid fiberglass, and are sealed from all water intrusion, I have very dry bilges I'm turning rated rpms and spin 4 blade 24x28 Hy-Torq's. at cruise (2350 rpm's) I'm at 24 kts or so, and every 100 rpm's gives me 1 kt or so, so I'm balanced out for the semi displacement hull that I have. The problem is in the design, I feel. when on plane, there is a small wedge in the hull forward of the exhaust, which creates a pocket for the exhaust. Once this pocket is there, the exhaust shoots down, and then curls up and out, hitting my hull first and then trailing off past the stern...
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Lets have a Sexy Party! 38 Henriques FB 2000 ~ 17 Montauk 1978
my dockmates applied PAM non-stick spray to their transom after every washdown. You could hardly notice the stuff, until the diesel soot began to cling and run down. After a trip offshore, the transom cleaned up like new with regular boat soap and no added effort.
Try a product called Rejex. I've been using it on my transom for exactly the same problem. I also installed a transom washdown and all I need to do at each trip is spray the transom with water and it washes off. I don't even need to use the brush.
On our old 35 Express, - it was worse with the Volvos then much better after re-powering with the Cummins. But still had soot.
1st - Give up on waxing the transom - it does not make the soot come off easier and it comes off with the cleaners that do take off soot.
2nd- go to the supermarket and buy a couple of cheap sponge mops. the ones with the flat head (some of them have a plastic piece that folds over and is meant to squeeze out the excess water by compressing the sponge - break that piece off - it gets in the way. get extra sponge heads. mark one songe mop with a "K"
3rd - buy Krazy Kleen at a marine supply store
It takes about 5 minutes and 0 effort - Wet down the sponge that is marked with a "K" - wet down the transom. Pour some Krazy Kleen right on the sponge. Lean over the transom and use the mop to take off the soot. With the Krazy Kleen it comes right off with very minimal effort. Rinse transom and sponge mop with the "K" Wash the boat normal and hit the transom again with the other brush and regular soap. I find the best boat soap to be Meguiars car wash. Amazing suds and does not take the wax off the rest of the boat. does a great job.
The transom will look like new after each time. I did this for 18 years and it removed every drop of soot, even after 2 days of trolling in the canyons. Never would wax the transom. The purpose for the 2 sponge mops was never to get Krazy Kleen on the other mop, supposed can be fairly harsh stuff (though I never had a problem). It seriously is the easiest way. I gave up trying to find the magic fix. The Krazy Kleen would go through the soot like a hot knife through butter. - And it never would harm the painted name (which was painted on with "One Shot" sign paint)
Air-seps are a start and how big are the vents? Have you repowered? If you have gone up in HP your vents will need to be bigger. What power do you have? If you have Yanmars.... Its just part of their charm. Not all, but some have this problem.
You have gotten some good advise above.. How about your injectors? Here is one more vote for AwlCare...
Praetorian47 - 7/16/2008 5:52 PM Try a product called Rejex. I've been using it on my transom for exactly the same problem. I also installed a transom washdown and all I need to do at each trip is spray the transom with water and it washes off. I don't even need to use the brush. I would like to coat the entire boat with Rejex.
If you read he Rejex wesite (or maybe the bottle, I forget), but it was designed precisely for this application!
Oh, and I do use it on my entire boat (the bay boat) everything but the metal, vinyl and non-skid. Nothing I have ever used works as well.
I previously had a Carver with Volvo's and I always had the same problem. I used Snobowl toilet bowl cleaner. It was inexpensive and all I had to do was put some along the top of the transom just as you would at the top of the toilet bowl. Let it run down the transom and sit for 10 minutes. It would then wipe clean off with the deck brush and boat soap.
Are you running Algae-X units on your fuel lines? i have found that since installing such on my boat, I don't have the soot buildup on the transom that I had prior.
Call it hokus pokus, but it works! Can't explain why, or how, but it has eliminated the soot problems on my boat.
__________________ "Never approach a dock faster than you can afford to hit it!"
I've also seen the magnets make a difference. There are several brands out there. They all seem to claim different reasons why they work. They can't all be right and they might all be wrong about the reasons but they do seem to work.
Beyond that science is the following;
Clean air filters.
Do the engines turn up rated + 50 rpm with a full load?
Have you checked the vacuum in the engine room itself. If you are running at WOT with all the hatches closed there should be no resistance to opening a hatch. The proper way is to measure with a Magnehelic differential pressure gauge. If you know somebody in HVAC work they might have one.
Even if your diesel is running and tunned perfectly, spinning the right props, using additives, clean air-seps, ect.... it is still a diesel and if used long enough like running 90 milles off shore fishing is gonna leave soot on the back of your boat. Those suggestions are to reduce it, not elimitate it. The suggestions above about the cleaning advice i would use. Also try FSR, its expensive but.. wow. also easy to use, very easy to use.
__________________ B.O.A.T - Break out another thousand