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Random Quote: IF I KNEW RETIREMENT WAS THIS ENJOYABLE,,I WOULD NOT HAVE WORKED FOR A LIVING
I bought an old formula 233 cuddy and wanted opinions on what type of power to go with. I will put a bracket on the back and am thinking about either a 300 zuki 4 stroke, a 300 etec, or ?????. What are your opinions on best setup? I don't want twins b/c of the extra fuel usage and weight. Thanks in advance, Mark.
Outstanding hull! I don't have any experience with outboards or brackets, but Irepowered my 1972 F233 with a 1998 Mercruiser 260hp 5.7L EFI and a Bravo Two Outdrive. I've been quite happy with it.
It was originally powered with a 5.0L Ford I/O. Once we got it out of there we could see the transom needed replacing, so I recommend you take a close look at it no matter which you choose, I/O or bracketed outboard.
Yours looks very nice. I like you top alot. I want to go with an outboard for speed, economy, and most space in cockpit. I plan on redoing the deck, transom, etc... The boat is a 1969 w twin 120hp OMC's so I would have to redo the transom anyway to fill in the outdrive holes.
I found an old 1971 model 233 to recondition. I put an Armstrong bracket with a 200hp 2 stroke to start with. We wore 2 engines out before we repowered with a 2002 F225. We currently have over 1300 hours on the F225 and it still rides better than any 24' boat I have ever ridden in. It cruises at around 37 mph and has a wot of around 44 with a medium load (3 guys, full tank of fuel, plenty of ice & gear). I did raise the deck enough to make it a self bailing hull, and would advise beefing up the transom.
How many inches did you have to raise the deck? I was thinking it might be a wise thing to do while I'm at it. I will beef up the transom and add some knees attatched to the stringers in order to distribute the load from the bracket. I was thinking of doing a fiberglass bracket like the ones made by Hermco. Thanks, Mark.
Something to consider with your re-power, the balance and dynamics of the boat will be changed by hanging an OB on the stern. On some boats it was so bad, I wouldn't trade a dingy for it. The fuel economy is seldom better, if not worse.The most fuel efficient package would be diesel duo-prop volvo, the next, gas volvo dp, then merc bravo3. I've even converted OB boats back to stern drives. Just some thoughts,Ya'll have a nice day, Moppie
Don't know how set you are on outboards? but you can repower a I/0 for probably 1/2 to 3/8th coast of a new outboard. Plus you wouldn't have to get a bracket made for the boat. I fish my 233 routinely and the I/0 does get in the way, but is managable. Also My wife likes if for a seat when i decide to take her on the boat, lol . i just put in a 220hp 4.3l, its not a rocket ship at 35kts wot (40mph). but it is decent on fuel! and cruises nicely at 25-26kts.
__________________ B.O.A.T - Break out another thousand
I found an old 1971 model 233 to recondition. I put an Armstrong bracket with a 200hp 2 stroke to start with. We wore 2 engines out before we repowered with a 2002 F225. We currently have over 1300 hours on the F225 and it still rides better than any 24' boat I have ever ridden in. It cruises at around 37 mph and has a wot of around 44 with a medium load (3 guys, full tank of fuel, plenty of ice & gear). I did raise the deck enough to make it a self bailing hull, and would advise beefing up the transom.
I got a 1970 223 with a 250 suzuki. I did a pile of work to this boat back in 2000 to 2002 to make is seaworthy. Fixed stringers, add a grid to bottom and transom, redid the transom, added a single bracket, recored the gunwales, glassed the gunwales to the hull, recored the fron deck, redid the floor and raised it 1.5". Had a custom hardtop made with 22' outriggers. Lost 4 mph with that. Performance is awesom with the 25o suzuki. I cruise are 33 and get 3 mpg with full load. Get a wot of 46 full load. Running light she has seen 51 with 2 people and 40 gal of fuel. 300 suzuki would be a great match, I just could not afford the extra 4k the dealer wanted at the time of the repower last year. I wore out a 22s 2 stroke suzuki in 7 seasons b4 the 250. I was burning 1600 gal a year at 200 hours. Now I am down to 1100 gal in the same 200 hours.
I would raise the floor 2" if I had to do over again. I left a 3 to 4" lip of old floor all around and shimed everthing out with 2x2's then covered it with to layers of ex luan and overlaped the seems, then covered that with epoxy and 17/08 glass. I used that old floor lip at a drainage trench. I had bored the self bailing holes b4 I redid the floor so I get a little water in the trench well. I putthe ball scupper that work well. Dot get the little ball scupper get the 1.5 or 2" ones. they work very well. Oh a friend has a 2006 almemarle 24' CC with the mid engine/jack shaft config and he swares my bracket boat rides MUCH better the his CC. He took 2 of his regular buddy the last time we went out on mine and they both agreed the bracket boat rode better the the mid/engine set up. They also like mine for all the extra room in the cockpit.
Here is a web site of some of the history of mine when you have some time.
Thanks for the info guys! I have considered an i/o, but I don't think this boat will have a problem w/ the outboard. Plus I'd rather not have the engine box to deal with. It's basically the same hull as a Contender-Bluewater and they hang twins on those. I know the two OMC sterndrives I'm removing are very heavy so hopefully it will all balance out, but maybe I should weigh them to see? The zuki 300 weighs only 615lbs and the etec 300 even less at 535lbs. If you were choosing between the two which would it be?
I rep[owered our 24 albemarle = 23 Formula with a single 250 suzukie
I wish I waited another 6 months for the 300 suzukie
the 300 is much more fuel effecient I also have a top speed of41-42 mph
with the 300 I would be 5mph fater on th ecruise and top end
I average about 1.7 mpg at 33 mph at 4800 rpm
go for the 300 suzukie
I've got the same project going, 1970 233. Got the boat free and am starting the build up. Will be fabbing my own transom extension/bracket and putting a single 300 on. I was into the Yam 300 hpdi but have heard too many horror stories at this point to consider it. The Suzuki 300 has got my attention now as well. Seems like nobody really has anything bad to say about them. I like the idea of 4liter displacement, variable valve timing, and of course 4 stroke.
Maybee you have some insight on this one too... 25 or 30 for the leg, by my measurements it doesn't need a 30 but the 25 is going to be sitting a little low for my liking. What have you come up with?
Looking for a deal on a poly tank too if you've found anything.
Trying to post some pictures of my build up but turns out I'm more boat savy than Computer savy.
Glad to see so many f233s on the site. I'm also currently in the process of rebuilding a 1975 f233. I replaced everything as well. Went so far as to start with a layer of 1708 throughout the hull (below water line) then transom and stringers.
I've decided to go with twins, fuel consumption is a consideration but with the lower rpms used at the same speeds twins are not far behind. I'm looking to power up next week, I went with a set of 250 Yamahas.
I would love to see pictures of other peoples rebuilds and running f233's. I documented most of the process on my boat and will take more pics of it running in the weeks to come.
Hawkeye,
I followed your link and found a lot of very helpful pics. Thanks for the documentation! Do you have pics of recoring the front deck? Did you vacuum-bag it? Did you remove the whole top to do all of the gunwhales and front deck? I have a 1969 Formula f233 and it will need a lot of similar work. Any additional pics you guys might have will be very helpful. Does anyone have good pics of what the original stringers looked like? Is anyone still using the original "saddlebag" tanks located in the gunwales? Mine still has both of them, and I was wondering if there are any dangers associated with having them there-they don't leak and are in suprisingly good condition.
Hawkeye, I'd be real happy to get the numbers out of mine that your getting.
I'm very interested in your engine position and bracket.
Is the engine you have a 25 inch leg or 30?
How far raised up is your cavitation plate/(engine) from the botom of the boat and how far set back from the transom is it?
I'd really appreciate your input. I'm trying to make mine a performer and it sounds like yours is dialed in!
I have the 25" leg. If I was doing it over I would do it in the 30"leg. My set back is 29" and the anti cav plate is about 3.75" above the bottom plane of the boat. Now different prop could use different heights.
Hawkeye,
I followed your link and found a lot of very helpful pics. Thanks for the documentation! Do you have pics of recoring the front deck? Did you vacuum-bag it? Did you remove the whole top to do all of the gunwhales and front deck? I have a 1969 Formula f233 and it will need a lot of similar work. Any additional pics you guys might have will be very helpful. Does anyone have good pics of what the original stringers looked like? Is anyone still using the original "saddlebag" tanks located in the gunwales? Mine still has both of them, and I was wondering if there are any dangers associated with having them there-they don't leak and are in suprisingly good condition.
I did not vacuum bag. I used ploy plastic and workd upside down. I have some pics of the front recore but have not had time to upload them.
Thanks alot for those engine position numbers Hawkeye. 29 back lets you tilt all the way up and out, and 3.75 up never cavitates on you? Sounds great! Like I said earlier, by my calculations I'm not sure I need a 30 but the 25 may be sitting a little low for my liking. I take it that's what you've found too. I will go with a 30. Thanks again.
My project is moving along. I've been able to work full time on it for the last 2 weeks.
I'm also doing the foredeck headliner. I dug it out from the inside out, and will be putting back Nida core 1/2 inch and glassing it in with mat and biax over head. I'm not vacuum bagging it either. I will work with it in manageable size strips and be meticulous about the lay up and hard rolling(no air voids!). This is not an easy job to do well, I unfortunately have a good amount of experience with doing this work.
The transom has been completely dug out and I've started fabbing the bracket and putting back the new transom.
I've spent some time on cosmetic stuff - gel coat repairs and filling holes...
I've decided to raise the floor 2.75 inches to make the boat completely self bailing even with a cooler 4 guys and a boat load of Strippers. Its been on my mind and seems to be a point agreed with by many.
I did some digging into the stringers and found them to be just like the day they were layed in. I know a lot of you here re-did the stringers, but I can't see bothering with it. they look great, if it aint broke don't fix it.
This is a great project and it should be a great boat. My goal is to have it in and be using it for May 09. I'd love to post some pictures I have of the build up but can't figure this out. How does one do this?
Always interested in hearing about, and seeing everyone's projects. Thanks for posting.
formula 233 repower 
