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i am in the process of trying to repair a couple of nicks on the hull of my boat.....i bought this kit from my local dealer because it matches the color of my hull....the problem is i have never worked with gelcoat before....here is what the manufacturer is telling me to do... anybody ever use this stuff.....
Spectrum gel coat Patch paste is a factory color matched gel coat that is converted into a paste form that spreads like Vaseline, sets in approximately 30-40 minutes, and will stay in place on vertical and overhead surfaces.
HOW TO USE PATCH PASTE :
Clean area thoroughly to remove oils and waxes. This should be done before sanding, using acetone diluted with 10% water. Use paper towels, changing often, to prevent contamination. CAUTION : acetone is highly flammable, use carefully. Dispose of paper towels properly.
Rough and/or sand area to be repaired using course sandpaper, sharp instrument or small grinding tool such as a drill. The object is to get enough tooth to repair area to assure a good bond. Use a tag rag to remove dust, take care not to damage surrounding areas. Masking tape around the repair area will minimize this possibility.
Place a small portion of patch paste in waxed paper cup and add M.E.K.P catalyst at approximately 12-15 drops per ounce of patch paste (2% by volume). Take care to mix thoroughly to assure an even surface and to minimize air entrapment.
Using a Plastic putty knife or spreader, apply catalyzed mixture to gouge or scratch. Leave area slightly raised
Let the repair cure thoroughly, normally 2-4 hours, or preferably overnight.
Start sanding cured repair with 200x wet paper. Sand lightly, working your way down to a finer grit 400x to 600x wet paper. As you sand with finer and finer paper you will notice the shine starting to brighten.
Buff and polish repair to achieve original shine
HINTS FOR BETTER REPAIRS
Work at room temperature (75 degrees F)
Heat repair area with a lamp or hair dryer. CAUTION : Be careful using electrical appliances around flammable materials. Elevating the temperature of a repair area will accelerate cure time.
NOTE : Patch paste matches the original O.E.M factory color. Slight color difference may be noticed due to gel coat degradation from ultraviolet rays and environmental exposure. Follow directions carefully.
I have used this stuff for over twenty years. It is very easy to use.
Common mistakes:
Adding too much catalyst. Too much catalyst will retard or prevent the gel coat from hardening.
Working in cold temperatures. The warmer it is the faster it sets. Yes, a heat gun or hair dryer (used modestly) can help speed up a repair.
I often use clear packaging tape to apply over the patch paste after I have troweled it on a ding or chip. This is especially useful when repairing a chip on a chine or outside corner where it is otherwise hard to build up the shape. By spreading tape over the patch paste you can see where it is going and can push or squeeze it into the shape you need without getting it all over you fingers.
You can begin to shave or scrape a repair down before the patch paste is fully hardened. Once it kicks I sometimes take a razor blade and carve or scrape the high spots down to more manageable level before sanding and polishing.
I often use clear packaging tape to apply over the patch paste after I have troweled it on a ding or chip. This is especially useful when repairing a chip on a chine or outside corner where it is otherwise hard to build up the shape. By spreading tape over the patch paste you can see where it is going and can push or squeeze it into the shape you need without getting it all over you fingers.
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The area to be repaired needs to be clean. The better the mechanical grip the patch paste has, the more secure it will be. Sometimes this means scraping, or sanding. Sometimes this means using a router, Dremmel tool or drill to create a "clean" repair area.
i was thinking about using 40 or 80 grit sandpaper to lower the damaged area so that is is lower than the surrounding area....then apply the paste..now u use the tape to be able to touch the the applied paste so you don't get it all over your hands?
Yes and this will really give you a smooth finish so less work when hardened. Like I said tape, wax paper or any other material which will not adhere to paste.
I have used the patch paste kits with great success.
I start by beveling the edges of the nic or gouge. I use a cutting bit in a dremel tool. The bit looks like a small round ball, with file grooves on it. I use it very delicately to bevel the edges down to the fiberglass. Next, clean the repair area with acetone. Next, apply masking tape around the area to be repaired. Mix the hardner with the gel coat per manufactorer instructions. Apply the gel coat using a body puddy spatchula. Make the gel coat flush with the masking tape surrounding the repair area. If the repair is deep, it might take two applications (coats) to build up to the proper level. Once the gel coat is cured, begin wet sanding (use a sanding block) with 400 grit paper. Once you start to get down to the tape, switch to 600 grit. Once you've sanded the masking tape off, switch to 800 grit, then to 1,000 grit. Be sure to keep the paper wet at all times. Once your done sanding, apply some 3m paste wax, and buff. I've used this technique and after I'm done, even I can't tell where the repair area is. It's very easy. If I can do, so can you. I actually documented the process with photographs the last I did a repair (in a very conspicous area where I found a void on the bow of my Grady White), but I'm not smart enough to know how to post the pictures on this website.
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Grady White SeaFarer 226 w/Yamaha F225 - SOLD
I have used the patch paste kits with great success.
I start by beveling the edges of the nic or gouge. I use a cutting bit in a dremel tool. The bit looks like a small round ball, with file grooves on it. I use it very delicately to bevel the edges down to the fiberglass. Next, clean the repair area with acetone. Next, apply masking tape around the area to be repaired. Mix the hardner with the gel coat per manufactorer instructions. Apply the gel coat using a body puddy spatchula. Make the gel coat flush with the masking tape surrounding the repair area. If the repair is deep, it might take two applications (coats) to build up to the proper level. Once the gel coat is cured, begin wet sanding (use a sanding block) with 400 grit paper. Once you start to get down to the tape, switch to 600 grit. Once you've sanded the masking tape off, switch to 800 grit, then to 1,000 grit. Be sure to keep the paper wet at all times. Once your done sanding, apply some 3m paste wax, and buff. I've used this technique and after I'm done, even I can't tell where the repair area is. It's very easy. If I can do, so can you. I actually documented the process with photographs the last I did a repair (in a very conspicous area where I found a void on the bow of my Grady White), but I'm not smart enough to know how to post the pictures on this website.
thank you for your help by the way....."Once you start to get down to the tape, switch to 600 grit. Once you've sanded the masking tape off, switch to 800 grit, then to 1,000 grit"...this part is a little confusing now do you cover the around the hole as well as the whole with tape before you add the paste?
You don't need a sander. Just a sanding block, the sand paper (in the grits mentioned), and a bucket of water. As far as the dremel tool is concerned, getting the beveled edge on the repair is very easy with the dremel tool and cutting bit. It's not my place to tell you what to buy, but I have found many uses for my dremel tool other than just using it in the manner I described for prepping for gel coat repairs. They are not very expensive and the money you save doing your own gel coat repair (just once) should way more than pay for the dremel tool. But there are probably other options. Perhaps you could use a small round file. I do use a random orbital buffer in final step (buffing the wax).
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Grady White SeaFarer 226 w/Yamaha F225 - SOLD