Bilge pump/float switch

[spinedoc]

The float switch on the bilge pump does not work when I lift it manually, however the pump comes on when I hit the switch at the helm. The mechanic wants to change not only the float switch but the bilge pump as well (Rule 1500). He says the bearings in the pump are probably no good and something about the amp draw. Is he pulling my anchor chain or does this sound right? Thanks for any opinions.

[namu mac]

Did you check the fuse for the auto circuit?

[dssmith]

If the bilge pump is more than a few seasons old, by all means replace it. I just did the same thing. Switch didn't work. Tried for an hour troubleshooting switch/pump/toggle/ etc and ended up replacing the switch and pump. Boaters world had the pump for about $80 and the switch for another $25.

Best thing to have working on a boat--the bilge pump.

If it bothers you, keep the pump he removes and if it still works, keep it on hand as a backup.

[sickcat]

I do agree that good bilge pumps are VERY important BUT if it does not sound any noisier than it has in the past while running I would pull the cover and check the impeller for debris and call it good with a new float switch. Those Rule panel mount switches with fuse do corrode so check it carefully and spray it with something like Corrosion-X.

[Bamaskeetshooter]

Large Rule bilge pumps are very reliable, unfortunately, float switches are not. Usually, you replace 2 or 3 float switches for every large Rule bilge pump that needs replacement.

The small Rule pumps aren't as reliable.

[Elusive]

Clearly there is something wrong in the circuit. I

t could be an electrical connection, fuse/breaker, switch or the wire. Make sure marine grade wire is used. It is very common to find that the wire leading to the float switch is damaged due to corrosion (hidden under the insulation)

As for the pump, if it is more than a couple of years old, let him change it. The cost of the pump is small in relation to the project