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I just bought a brand new shakespeare vhf antenna model 5225xt and I was told not to trim the cable, to just roll it up and hang it somewhere under the console and somebody else told me that I need to trim it to have just enough lenght to reach my vhf plus maybe a couple more feet, which one is it?? also they said I need to sotter something at the end of the wire, is ther any way aound this? thanks in advance, Jose.
#2 is correct. Trim the cable but leave a little extra for a service loop. Shakespeare makes a solderless connector that works well but a soldered connector works better.
Crimp is much easier as it takes seconds to do, but soldering is also easy if you have a soldering iron and solder. I think the person that suggested leaving it full length and coiling it up might be saying so in case you move it. Not a bad idea but if you have no intentions of moving it, or have no other place to put it, best way is to keep it short and neat.
Good luck with it.
__________________ 1988 IMP 270 Liberty
1981 Wellcraft 255 Suncruiser
I'm not sure how it works in the marine world, but I got a CB tuned once at a truck stop and the first thing they did was put in an 18' cable to the antenna. They said they couldn't set the SWR with anything shorter. Since then I've always used an 18' cable.
I vote for leave it long ans coil it up. Or you could read the manual. that may give you a few clues too.
I cut the cable on mine, could not get the swr down until I did, I did solder the connector, the crimp is a lot easier but I feel better with the solder.
__________________ 2004 SeaRay 185 Sport
4.3L Alpha 1
Whichever way you go, REMEMBER to place the nut onto the cable before you start routing it through the boat. Otherwise you end up with everything connected and soldered, and then realize that you have an open fitting on top. ....not that I would ever do something that dumb.....
__________________ Rick
Alabama's Gulf Coast
Chaparral 240 Signature (Sold)
I'm not sure how it works in the marine world, but I got a CB tuned once at a truck stop and the first thing they did was put in an 18' cable to the antenna. They said they couldn't set the SWR with anything shorter. Since then I've always used an 18' cable.
I vote for leave it long ans coil it up. Or you could read the manual. that may give you a few clues too.
A minimum length for a vhf antenna cable is more like three feet. Vhf radios operate on a much
shorter wavelength than a CB.
Anyone that wants to know whether their antenna system is working should have the completed
install checked with a Bird or Telewave watt meter or something similar. Expect a good install to
read 25 watts forward and less than 1 watt reflected.
As above, you should leave at least 3 feet of cable. A little more wont hurt, some people say to lay out the slack but I have had mine coiled for years, with no problems.
__________________ I'm not a boat expert, I just read THT!
As above, you should leave at least 3 feet of cable. A little more wont hurt, some people say to lay out the slack but I have had mine coiled for years, with no problems.
Our directions on our antenna stressed keeping a min of 3 feet of cable between the antenna base and the radio. I assume it has something to do with keeping the resistance at a proper level for optimum effectiveness.
From what I remember about CB radios OVERDRIVE is somewhat correct .A lot of Radio Geeks would say the cable should be equal to the wavelength of the frequency ,Hence the ratings on some antenna will read 1/2 plane or 3/4 plane. A CB radio has a wavelength about 37.5 ' we used 10 meter gear with linier amps to go farther and had to wrap the ground about 3' around base of antenna. to minimize the SWR.
All that said it might be wise to cut the wire in multiples of the wavelength
Got it installed today, I left about 6' of cable coiled up in about an 8" to 10" diameter like the instructions explained, also my neighbor came over and sloder the tip and done, also installed an external speaker for the vhf it all works great, thanks to all of you for the advice.
The crimp connector will be just as efficient as a solder job if done correctly, and it's a hell of alot easier ...
Based soley on anecdotle (sp) evidence and personal experience I disagree and would never use a crimp on connector. The solder connector not sotter is by far better and it is not hard to do. I am sure you have a friend who can do it if you are not comfortable.
__________________ Ignorance is bliss, but stupid HURTS
USCG 1600 ton Master Oceans, Master of Towing, Master of Aux. Sail. Master of Baiting
Nice thing about the Digital VHF Antennas is the special small diameter connector. Easy to thread though the boat and no soldering or field crimping cable ends required.
Crimped connectors are quite good if the proper tool is used on high quality connectors (I don't use Radio Shark junk) and the connector is fully weatherproof. It is just about impossible to weatherproof a PL-259 connector unless the connection (including the threaded plug end after connection) is encapsulated in something like 4200.
I would use a soldered connection with 4200 and shrink tubing to seal the rear and provide some strain relief. Properly soldering a PL-259 is job requiring some skill. It is very easy to melt and ruin the coax unless it is teflon. The coax insulation on Shakespeare antennas is usually polyethelene - very easy to melt and wreck the connection. Not all PL-259 connectors are equal. A good one should use teflon for the pin to shell insulation. Many are nickel plated and difficult to "wet" with solder - thus a poor connection and/or melted coax. Silver plated ones are available that readily accept solder.
Marine antennas like the 8' Shakespeare do not have ground radials to act as a "counterpoise" to the radiating portion. Instead, they use a special feed (half-wave technique - gets complicated) to *better* match the antenna to the coax. With this configuration the coax is typically part of the antenna system. This is why they recommend the 3' minimum length. It helps "decouple" the antenna from the coax and provide a better standing wave ratio (SWR). As mentioned previously, the only way to be certain the system is functioning properly is with the appropriate test gear: A *quality* SWR meter, forward/reverse power meter, or a stand alone instrument designed to measure antenna/coax properties - "antenna analyzer".
VHF ANTENNA INSTALL HELP!@#$%^ 
