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Here I what I need to do. My SO's Rav4 has a 4 way flat output and my trailer is a 5 way flat. I have seen adapters online however, from what I can gather about them, I would need to splice into the backup lights to get the energy to trip the backup/disc brake release solenoid, is this correct?
I know my boat/trailer is some 6,000 lbs but in the event I need to pull the boat out as fortunately I have a ramp next to the house, I want to be able to use her truck as it can pull 3,500 with a tow package. Thanks.
jtburf - 4/9/2008 1:42 PM
All you have to do is take the last non covered pin on the boat side and plug it in your running light hole on the truck to disengage the break.
John
That works if you have a good ground through the frame and hitch, which is not reliable. The easiest thing to do is to just stick a C-clamp on the sliding part of the tongue to block it's motion rearward. (A good thing to know in case your reverse solenoid ever fails). If you want to do it electrically without bothering the RAV-4 wiring, splice the free pigtail on the adapter into the running lights wire on the adapter, the brown wire. Turn your lights on when you want to back up. As soon as the trailer is headed down the ramp, stop and disconnect the lights so you don't pop the bulbs. Problem is, if you don't do it often, you will forget that is how it is set up and neglect to turn the lights on.
you can build your own 4pin to 5pin adapter and just stick a screwdriver through the hole that prevents the surge brakes from engaging when you want to back-up. I assume you won't be towing that rig much with that truck? the bigger question, is how/why are you towing a rig big enough to require surge brakes with a rav 4?!
Most trailers I have seen have a hole right behind the sliding part of the hitch you can put a pin in, this does however render the brakes useless, I would only do this if the ramp is next door as you will not have any brakes, the other thing you could do is only put the pin in when you back up however if the brakes are applied just a little it makes it a pain, pending on what kind of plug you have if you line up the ground everything should work except the brake solenoid some plugs you can do this some you can't I have a Wesco and I can do this.
Just add the wire splicing into your reverse circuit if you plan to two regularly. If towing will be a rare event then you can use one of the other alternatives.
My Tundra only came with a 4-flat so I just added a wire to the reverse light circuit and zip-tied it to the other harness. EZPZ
I think it cost me $35 at the local Uhaul place to replace my stock 4 pin with a new 5 pin. It will never hurt to have the extra pin even if you only use it once a year.
Thanks all for the replies. I really appreciate it.
I really don't want to splice into the Rav4's wiring if I can help it. There is an adapter that goes into the 4 way/vehicle and ends in a 5 way flat with a wire coming out, I'll take your advice Bob and splice it back into the brown wire and just hit the lights when I need to back the trailer up using the Rav.
Unfortunately my TITAN Model 6 disc braked/surge trailer has no such pin to manually lock out the brakes when backing up and I don't think a c-clamp would work either but that would/still might be a good idea to try in a jam, one I never even considered, good idea.
I know that the Rav4 with its 3,500 lb towing cap. is real low for my 6,000 lb boat/trailer but the ramp is literally next to my house and is not steep and all I'll be doing it only if it was absolutely necessary to pull it out of the water, up the ramp then backing it down about 200 yards to the house to change oil, check on something, hurricane, so for that purpose, I know I'll be ok as the Rav4 tows a 3,500lb boat no problem, short on wheelbase , yes, but it gets the job done.
Thanks again all. Now to order the thing, it is surprisingly had to find them online, they are cheap but the shipping hurts nowadays. $5 part, $7-10 shipping.
4 way flat to 5 way flat adapter? 
