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Random Quote: GET THE TREBLE OUT LATE.......R, (Mates first green wahoo)
I plan to be heading out for some early season fishing this year and the temps will likely drop down in to the 20's & 30's at night. I can wait to dewinterize my water systems so I wouldn't need to heat the whole bilge but I want to protect the engine. This leaves me with two questions:
1) Would a magnetic oil pan heater be sufficient to keep the engine temp above freezing? Are there better options (besides a $300 bilge heater). I've heard people say they use a light bulb but I'd worry about it tipping over or something. I have a buddy who burnt down his house with a trouble light a couple of years ago.
2) Does Mercruiser Alpha (gen 1) self drain when the drive is lowered?
Has anyone ever used the ceramic heaters that screw into a light socket that are make for reptiles? They are made to heat an area and may be safer than light bulbs.
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I like belt and suspenders approach so I would probably use a stick-on oil pan heater and a 150 watt ceramic reptile heater (about $25-35, Petco). I know the stick on oil pan heaters work, I have no experience with the magnetic heaters .
Sometimes I keep it in the water, sometimes it's on the trailer. It just depends on where we're fishing. I'm more concerned about when it's on the trailer.
My engine is below the floor which means any work below the manifolds requires being upside down with the top half of my body in the bilge, my legs still up on the deck and some serious yoga. The batteries would also have to be pulled to gain access to the starboard side of the engine. This would also have to be done in the dark and in cold weather. It could be done but it'd be a huge hassle.
Just to be clear, by "magnetic heater" I meant an electric heater which uses a magnet to hold it on the oilpan. That time of year it's in the 50's to 60's during the day and only drops down below freezing for 2-4 hours a night so I think the oil pan heater should do fine for the engine. My concern is more with the drive as that's much more exposed to the weather and harder to keep heated.
If you have the option to leave it in the water, that is the easiest solution. The outdrive acts as a heatsink, and nothing will freeze with that chunk of aluminum in the water.
I can vouch for Cousin Eddies engine room........[img]../images/emoticons/laugh.gif[/img]
The Alpha one drains the water when lowered.
As far as winterizing it.......obviously the safest thing to do is drain it. If the engine was used and then hauled and stored and then used the next day, there might be enough residual heat in the room to prevent it from freezing that one night. If it is going to be left longer without being used, then you need to add heat or drain it.
How about one of those remote temperature gauges with a sensor left in the engine room and a display in the house?
Andy
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How about one of those remote temperature gauges with a sensor left in the engine room and a display in the house?
Andy
And I hope there's no need for you to be back in there anytime soon.
The remote temp sensor would add some peace of mind so I'll have to throw one of those down there. Good to know that the drive drains itself when lowered. Like you said, with the temps only dropping below freezing for a few hours, the engine room should retain some residual heat and the block heater should take care of the rest.
Eddie, Given your parameters(safe OD)I'd opt-out for blocking up the engine cover and use a small cylindrical shop style electric heaterw/a thermostat and fan, w/anold sleeping bag or twocovering the wholeoperation.
Theheater I have would definatelyput out enough heat and is dumb-proof safe(req'd in MY case). I'm looking at getting an IB and have given it some thought too. Can't pass on those marginal early and late days!
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