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I was looking at trailers this week to replace one of mine (I own 5 trailers, 4 of which are boat trailers). I was talking to the factory rep about why I was considering replacing and I cited all of the usual parts that go- springs, brakes, u-bolts, rollers, actuator, winch, etc. The combination of parts all needing attention at the same time has led me down the path of replacement rather than repair on this particular trailer.
Now for the question for all of you guys with aluminum trailers. Of all the parts I mentioned not one is aluminum, even on an aluminum trailer. I never had a galvanized trailer frame rust out, just some of the old painted steel ones. And I am using the galvanized in salt. So is there an advantage to aluminum for me?
The rep I spoke with said they only make the aluminum trailers with bunks because they are such a hit in the southern regions, but in the northern regions most people don't prefer them. The Mason-Dixon line runs about through my yard, so I am neutral on that!
Also the bunk vs. roller thing I don't understand, considering I can winch my 23' boat onto my roller trailer with about 12" of water in a bad tide situation, my bunk trailers are a bit more sensitive to too much or too little water. Also the bunks don't support as well as rollers in many cases because of the curve of the hull- the rollers self-adjust to the contours. I realize bunks curve somewhat over time to mold to the hull also, but the bunk mounting brackets limit this to an extent. I've even heard that with many bunk trailer rigs you can slide credit cards between the hull and the bunks at various points.
Aluminum trailers should usually weigh less than a similar capacity galvanized trailer. For those people who want to minimize their towed weight it can be a factor.
I just replaced a galvanized trailer with an aluminum I-beam trailer. Spent an extra $100 to have all stainless bolts. Axle is a galvinized torsion axle. The only corrosion concern I have are the berrings but the trailer came with a buddy berring type setup that will allow you to pump grease in and water out. Manufactured by Wesco. hope this helps.
The newer brake calipers have more non-ferrous metal in them so they won't rust as easy. Ask your trailer rep whether you can have the factory install a brake-washdown setup on the trailer because flooding the brakes after you get home is the best way to keep the trailer around for a long time.
__________________ Rick
Alabama's Gulf Coast
Chaparral 240 Signature (Sold)
As with anything the price makes a big difference on trailers. The cheaper aluminum trailers you will have to replace bunk brackets, springs, axles, hubs, and anything else that isn't aluminum or stainless. Some of the higher ned aluminum trailers like Rolls, Wesco, and others you may not have to do anything except replace/repack bearings. Rolls even has stainless hubs, aluminum springs and some other custom parts that will need little or no maintenance.
Bunk trailers were made in the south because they have little tide range to worry about.Nothing beats a roller trailer in larger tide change areas,given the hull is made with enough thickness/strenght to be supported on the rollers reduced surface area for proper support.Some craft can't be supported on a roller trailer because of their hulls constrution-Example,Boston Whaler's not built for a roller trailer,requires bunks.
Aluminum trailer won't rust,but will develop stress cracks,that can be welded,but when they start showing stress cracks,it time for a new trailer,and sell the old one to carry a lighter boat.Just as alumimun aircraft frames are taken out of service,an older aluminum boat trailer has a life span that is controlled by the stress it recieves,and when it start developing stress cracks it time for it to be put aside for a lighter boat to be on it.
I have found the stainless bolts to speed up corrosion around the aluminum bolt holes,and that increase in hole diameter is a problem long term.
The boat usually sits lower on a bunk so its easier to tow, less wind exposure, better mpg, less sway, and easier to board to when its on the trailer too.
Aesthetically, Al trailers are much nicer, I know this isnt a big concern, but most steel trailers look old and dingy even brand new.
I like a bunk trailer for the following reasons: Tows much better, no sway if adjusted properly, easy to work on in the yard. Great support for the hull, the boat lives on it most of time for me.
I adjusted my trailer to the hull in my yard with a jack.
1) chock the wheels
2) Lift the motor
3) Place a small piece of a 2 x 12 under the jack, which is centered under the bunk bracket.
4) Lift the jack until it makes solid contact with the bracket, use a small piece of 4 x 4 between the jack and bracket.
5) Loosen the nuts on the bunk bracket.
6) Jack the bunk bracket until you are satisfied with the placement of the bunk to the hull.
7) Tighten the nuts back up and you are good to go.
You have to do this starting at the bow and working your way back. You can repeat the process if you are trying to get the best fit (I did). I have a pretty good curve on those wooden bunks now.
You can always spray liquid rollers on the bunks to ease the friction between the hull and the bunks.
Good luck and make the best choice for you, the boat and your needs.
Brian
__________________ 215 CC Kencraft Challenger
225 Ficht (so far so good.)
Bunks have better support, but rollers are easier to get on/off trailer. More of an issue when your tides changes are 8-9 feet.
Aluminum is lighter. Galv steel is cheaper. It's pretty much that simple.
bamaboy473 - 3/4/2008 1:24 PM Ask your trailer rep whether you can have the factory install a brake-washdown setup on the trailer because flooding the brakes after you get home is the best way to keep the trailer around for a long time.
I don't think so. The washdown didn't do crap but keep 1/4 of the insides clean.
Good reason to have disc brakes (aside from also having better stopping power). I wash the discs and callipers with a small hand sprayer immediately after immersion in salt water. I have aluminum trailers that because they are lighter weight--and are durable.
At the crowded ramps in Va. Beach, having to winch a boat on the trailer doesn't exactly make you the most popular guy at the ramp. On another note I witnessed two boats this year go rolling off trailers half way down the ramp, ouch. Of course, that's operator error and had nothing to do with having a trailer with rollers. I also agree that access to the boat on rollers is nearly impossible with larger boats, especially the older and heavier I get. Personally, I have an older galv. trailer with bunks, I'll be upgrading to alum. in a couple of years.
I dont think anyone make and AL roller trailer. With that said, I prefer a roller trailer due a a shallow ramp I have used. It is nice not to have to put the truck in the water to get the trailer deep enough for a power load. That is only one ramp that I have used where that would be a concern. To me it is more important to have disk breaks and a torsion axle.
It is really funny how there is a geographic divide between rollers and bunks. Some people say it has to do with tides but Beaufort sc has 8 foot and occasional 9 ft tides, and you'd be hard pressed to find a roller trailer around here.
__________________ Sod your yard. I NEED TO KEEP MY BOAT!
Seahunt 186 Escape F115 Yamaha
Having come from Long Island and now living in Jacksonville, I've used both roller and bunk trailers. The ramps on Long Island suck and you needed a roller trailer. The ramps in Florida are great for float on/float off trailers. I'm bunk all the way now.
My bunk aluminium trailer floats due to the twin axle. It is a pain when the tide is flowing and the fenders go behind a piling. I have to have someone hold it strait until i get weight on it. I always had rollers and with the shallow ramps we have up here and tide swings if is imposible to get a 28 ft boat on or off unless its almost high tide. Next time I go roller.
Why aluminum trailers? 
