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Old 11-04-2003, 02:35 PM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

I have a 2002 triple axile Loadmaster trailer and plan on replacing the brake pads with new ones. I have replaced brake pads on cars before and was just wondering if there is anything tricky about changing them on a trailer? For example, how or do you bleed the break line on a trailer that has surge breaks? Any advice/help/feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-04-2003, 02:46 PM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

Just like a car. Surge brakes operate just like your car brakes, except the force of the trailer pushing forwad when you hit your vehicle brakes is what operates the master cylinder on your surge brakes. You will find the bleeder valve for the trailer brakes on the back of the hub backing plate. There should also be a place to adjust the brakes on the same backing plate.
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Old 11-04-2003, 02:48 PM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

I usually go to the Champion Trailer site for tips and information about working on brakes. This part of their site might help you.

http://www.championtrailers.com/tech...m#bleed_brakes

Good luck with your brakes.
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Old 11-04-2003, 03:00 PM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

The way Loadmaster bleed my brakes when I picked it up was like this. They took the handle that activates the "emergency" braking (the one with the chain you hook to your truck). They took off the two little metal plates at the base of the handle (the ones that would just bend out otherwise) and just pumped on the handle. That activates the brakes and than a second person opens the line at the brake and bleeds them. Of course make sure your reservoir has plenty of fluid.

Kirk

www.geocities.com/reel_time_fishing_team/
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Old 11-04-2003, 03:35 PM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

reel_time_fishing_team knows the trick. Just as he states have one person up front with the fluid (DOT type 3 usually but consult your documentation 1st) and keep the reservoir full. You can usually take a pair of vice grips to pull the emergency lever forward. The second person should loosen the bleeder valve from the most distant brake first while the lever is being pumped. To keep things clean I would suggest placing a peice of tubing from the bleeder valve to a container held at a higher elevation (set it up on the fender for example). Pump until you see no bubbles then close the bleeder valve with the lever pulled forward. Do the same for the other brakes.
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Old 11-04-2003, 10:11 PM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

on some actuators as stated above, I have locked the handle in the forward position, so be careful not to pull on that handle to far forward. east coast trailer man, can probably tell you what kind of actuator loadmaster uses.. theres may be different than the one I was using.
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Old 11-05-2003, 06:32 AM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

Snookman3 makes a good point. Just pump the break-away lever with short strokes (don't allow it to go all the way ****** and watch for the bubbling to stop in the master cylinder as well as the container from the bleeder hose. To my knowledge the current and recent production has used Titan Surg-o-matic actuators. This may vary depending on the production time and size of the actuator.
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Old 11-05-2003, 09:16 AM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

F31CC- Hey Dave, give me a call as I lost your number (cell phone went overboard) I have a set of pads if you are interested. loadmaster wasn't really fast when shipping parts (it took over a month). You headed to Virginia?

East Coast- Can you supply parts for the trailers? I need the electronic actuator that disengages the brakes when reversing. Jamming a 2x4 in there before reversing works well but I'd like to fix it this winter.
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Old 11-05-2003, 10:45 AM
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Default Loadmaster Trailer help

Team Rock On,

I usually expedite parts directly from the factory if it's a warranty issue. Do you have the model number for your actuator? Did the solenoid reversing valve fail or did you not have one installed? Assuming you have one installed, have you checked to make sure the reverse lights are supplying voltage. Assuming you have Kodiak disc's I'm really surprised that brake pads would take that long to ship unless they were backordered from the supplier (you can get them directly from Kodiak as well. They are pretty much standard GM parts and you should be able to reference them with D-289 or if the shop wants a car model go for 82-91 Pontiac Sunbird. The pads are the same regardless of Kodiak SS or Cast Iron disc brakes or rotor size. One caveat and pay attention to this if you buy the pads from an auto parts store. The inside pad will be thicker and the outside pad will be thinner and appear as though it's half worn. This is by design. If both pads look the same you should not use them as you probably won't have the proper clearance. Drop me an email to eastcoasttrailers@cfl.rr.com. regarding the solenoid and I'll see if I can get you some info on the replacement part. Check and see if the existing solenoid has a mfg. or part number. The solenoids come in a couple of flavors.
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