Best way to attach something heavy to T-top without welding??

[fishin-fanatic]

This one might be a little hard to explain. I'll try to take a picture tonight when I get home to illustrate.

I want to attach a 400 watt High Pressure Sodium light to my T-Top. It is 14 x 18 inches and weighs 40 pounds. The purpose of the light is to attract fish, not for lighting. I must find a way to easily attach it in a manner that is very secure, but very easy and quick to take on and off.

Originally, I wanted to weld some kind of bracket or "sleeves" to the t-top. Then each time I wanted to use the light, I'd attach the light to the bracket or sleeve with nuts & bolts.

I've talked to several welding shops and they're trying to talk me out of "messing up" the t-top. They say that once a t-top has been annodized, you have to grind down to un-annodized aluminum, then weld on this proposed bracket. The bracket would not be annodized and would start looking bad.

I suspect they do not want to take a small job like this. Any comments on the technical aspects of welding to annodized aluminum?

Also any ideas of how to connect something of this size and weight to a t-top securely without any welds

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Fishin-Fanatic
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[tidester]

I didn't think yellow monochromic sodium light would attract bait [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img] I thought it would have to be white light (i.e. mercury vapor lamp, halide, etc).

To mount something that heavy to your t-top without welding, you are going to nees to fabricate a bracket which straddles at least two (2) of the tubes. This will provide enough leverage for the bracket to stay put. This bracket can be made from aluminum bar stock (check WWW.MCMASTER.COM for pricing on different alloy bars), and bolt together in a clamping arrangement. Tom at Accurate may chime in and tell you differently, but I would line the bracket with plastic or rubber to keep from marring up and damaging the anodized finish. You can buy plastic and rubber from the same source.

1974 John Allmand Ticonderoga

[sr31aj]

Assuming:
a) if you're going to use the light to try to attract fish, you'll be using it when anchored or drifting and not while running
b) you've got rocket launcher rod-holders already in place on the t-top,

what about using one of the rod-holder adapters used for bait-tables, down-riggers, grilles? I'm pretty sure you can purchase them individually, if you're really concerned about the weight you could rig up something to use 2 of them and spread the weight across 2 of your rod-holders. Drop the light in the rodholder when you want to use it, take it out and stow it when you're not using it

Don

[fishin-fanatic]

Tidester

Although your idea sounds close to the solution I'm looking for, I am not a mechanically-inclined person. The website you pointed me to brags of carrying 390,000 products. I don't even go to Home Depot because it's overwhelming. That website is way too much for me. I am lucky enough to have a neighbor that seems to be able to fabricate almost anything, though. He already has an idea that sounds very similar to yours that I will recruit him for if it comes down to that.

SR31AJ

Your idea is something that I can comprehend. It sounds simple, cheap and effective. Still, I hold out hope of attaching it to the side of the t-top where I can run the boat with it up there.

I was just looking for additional ideas and very much appreciate these two ideas.

Thanks!!

Keep them coming ..........

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Fishin-Fanatic
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[stan v]

Fish-Fanatic, here's what I do. We fish offshore (9 miles or so) at night. Hook up to the rig we select and then we simply drop one of those powerful submersible 12volt lights over the side. Draws very little amperage and is a powerful fish attractant. Doesn't blind everybody in the boat either. We use red lights inside to see. Works great, and if you've never fished offshore at night, what a thrill you're in for. Most exciting fishing there is, however, pick your weather carefully. It can get scary out there.

[whoknows]

Fishin', don't mean to sound like a smartA but how are you going to power it? Do you have a generator? That 400 watts at 12 volts is gonna draw 33+ amps. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img]

[fishin-fanatic]

Yes, generator and light are already in my possession.

I have a Honda EU-1000-I ..... sweet little generator. Only weighs 28 lbs, puts out 1000 watts and runs @ 59db running wide open .... 53 db when not under full load.

I had the opportunity to go on a trip with a guy earlier this summer and I'm basically copying everything he had. He did not have a T-Top, though. He had the light mounted to a pole approximately 2 feet long and the pole fit into the flush-mounted rod holders on the gunwales.

My boat is a rolled-edge skiff and does not have flush mount rod holders. Like I mentioned earlier, I do have several ideas. At the same time, I know there are guys on here with great ideas, too, so I'm solicting additional ideas.

Thank

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Fishin-Fanatic
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[inkahootz]

I thought the aluminium pipes were already anodized before fabricating the t-top. If so they can weld the bracket you desire and then paint the welds with matching silver paint. Otherwise we need to know what the bracket on the light looks like. Pictures would be great.

[tex4771]

Stan V, cool idea, describe the submersible light in more detail? how deep do you drop it? what bait? what are you catching? any more details? we stay off Freeport ,Tx overnight some time and drift bait while we sleep but never tried a light.

[amada8]

Your original post suggested that the weld shop didn't want to bother with such a small job. Most (exclusively) weld shops handle onesy-twosy and don't complain. The advice given by the weld shop is correct... once you weld, you have destroyed the integrity of the finish and NOTHING good can happen after that without a total strip job and refinish.

I own a precision sheet metal house in N.C. and would give you the same advice.

Dave

[inkahootz]

So your saying the t-top is anodized after it is fabricated? I was under the impression that the pipe was purchased prefinished and after fabrication the weld shop just paints the welds. IF that is the case I don't see the difference between the initial building of the top and adding a bracket, as far as the finish goes anyway.

[stan v]

Tex4771, I've hooked to those rigs off Freeport in fact. I believe some of those first rigs are called 9 mile rigs aren't they? Anyway, the light we've used was purchased at Academy, $16 I think, and come with battery clips and a cord about 8' long. Simply drop over the transom a couple of feet deep and you're set. We use live croakers, pin fish, or if we can catch hardtails (large ones are great) the kingfish are unbelieveable. I love fishing out of Freeport, but with no bay access if we get blown out offshore we really have no place to go. Have kept the boat in Matagorda for the past 6 years. Little further to drive from the Woodlands, but offers a wide variety of options in all weather conditions. One night while fishing off Freeport, at 2am, a huge sea turtle surfaced and hit the light we had over the side. Talk about an attention getter! It's hard to believe the amount of squid you'll see passing by the light, millions. The gulf is alive, big time.

[jocko_nc]

400W sodium light you ought to be visible from space! Just make sure no one mistakes you for a missile launch or something! lol.

jocko

[fishin-fanatic]

OK, Guys!! Thanks again for the comments. Here's a few pictures (hopefully not too many) of the project. I came up with my own idea. It really only suits my boat. I would have like to have made it a little more universal to fit any boat's flush-mount rod holders, but the only welder I know is a total raving lunatic and I have to take it one step at a time with this guy.

Here's the light. It's actually 9" X 16". It does weigh 40 lbs.



I had a pole 4' 6" welded to a small piece of angle iron. The light will bolt to this.



The 2nd piece to the puzzle is a bracket that will mount to the flat part of my "rolled-edge" gunnel Notice the sleeve that the light pole will slip into:



I will then slip the light pole into the sleeve like this ..... walla:




I have not attached this contraption to my boat yet for those of you that have a better idea, speak now or forever hold your piece.

Thanks!

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Fishin-Fanatic
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[seabass]

fishin-fanatic,

Here is my take on it. Your mount looks good but it might have some draw-backs. The lower it is mounted the less it will affect your nightvision. So, with that in mind, why not attach it directly to the rolled edge(if possible)? Also, with your set-up, it will be permanetly mounted to the one side. If it attaches directly to the gunnel it could be moved from the port to starboard side, depending on which side you wish to attract bait on.

The light could be mounted to a sleeve in a shape of a narrow U. Several bolts could be tapped into the bottom opposite of the light. The sleeve could be slid over the lip and the bolts could be tightened to secure it. Of course I'm assuming you have a lip on your gunnel.

Anyways, this is just a thought. Also, you're probably going to be battling corrosion on your rig as well.

seabass

[RingLeader]

Fishin Fanatic, it looks like you are on the right path. You need to see my light rig sometime, its only 2 500W halogens, but I have them on a pole that I can stick into a rocket launcher on the t-top. That way it is overhead and out of the way, and I can get a good flood far away from the boat. I'll have the boat in the water this weekend, stop by if you are in the water. I might try to chase a speck or two on Saturday night. I caught a few specks tonight from the dock, but the banana fish have been really thick lately. Lots of pogys at night under the lights. Might not be a bad idea to catch some and freeze them from chum for the lump season. Where did you get the light and how much did it set you back? I have the Honda generator as well.

When fishing for specks at night we try to illuminate as much water as far away from the boat as possible (specks are pretty wary). If he can get the light above head level, he can effectively do so. The glare should not be too bad.

[fishin-fanatic]

Ringleader

I got the light at nu-lite. It's on the service road at the Airport Rd Exit. It seemed expensive to me ($172 with bulb and tax), but I could not find it cheaper.

I tried all kinds of different lights from Home Depot. A pair of 500-watt halogen work lights tie-wrapped to the t-top was my first try. They made a ton of light, but the owner's manual of the EU-1000 says you should not run it at 1000 watts longer than 30 minutes. I tried a single 500 watt and it only made modest amount of light.

When it came down to it, I got this light because it's the same setup as used by some of the top nighttime anglers out in Breton Sound. I had an opportunity to see it in action, and it produces.

Once again, thanks to all for their suggestions

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Fishin-Fanatic
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[JAL]

F.F.

Couple quick questions for you... the lamp your using (and the guides you've mentioned) is a high pressure "Sodium" lamp? The reason I ask, the Sodium lamps I've seen have always had that "orange" light... Is that effective down south.

We've used generators and Halogen lamp set ups in my area (Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay) for nightime angling for trout (aka. seatrout or yellowfin trout, not the specs). The 500 watt Halogens work well and aren't too heavy... we mount them on the hardtop or on retractable poles for center console boats.

I've thought about using the HP Sodium or Mercury Halide lamps since you can get "more light" at the same wattage.

[jocko_nc]

Guys:

I messed around with this over the weekend and was really pleased with how it all worked out. I have wanted to mount some lights to my tee top as well, nothing like the beacons you all are talking, just 35W driving lights. it IS getting darker by the day!

I have a bunch of old Yakima roof rack accessories (from when I used to ride bicycles) that are built around approx. 1.00 inch tube. Similar to the outer ring of my top. These are heavy plastic and aluminum clamps, bars, extensions, etc. that can be mounted and pivoted as needed. They are not stainless, but are made for automotive exposure. They look good, like a part designed for the job.

Look on Ebay and see what you can find. Yakima Racks.

jocko.

Not the bike-specific parts, just the tee handles, clamps, bolts and what-not.

Someone ought to make a such a product, like the roof rack products but for boats. Hmmmm.

[This message was edited by jocko_nc on 08-26-02 at 04:10 PM.]

[fishin-fanatic]

JAL

Yes, 500 watt halogen is bright, very lightweight and fairly inexpensive. On some nights those fish might show up and bite no matter what light you have.

In the coastal water off of Louisiana, there are many oil and gas platforms. The big platforms are 24/7 shops and are lit up with numerous High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lights. Any of these structures that have lights close to the water, attract plenty speckled trout.

Also, I live near a major lake called Lake Pontchartrain. On this lake there are many "camps" with long piers. At the end of the piers, they are outfitted with numerous HPS lights. Many of these people are using 600 and 800 watt lights.

So, yes, in this region HPS is preferred over Mercury Vapor and Metal Halide.

All of these fall into a category of lighting called High Intensity Direct (HID) and I think, the output of this 400 watt HPS is superior to the output of two 500 watt halogens. It should not stress my generator and if it works out good, I may be able to add a 2nd 400 watt light on the other side

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Fishin-Fanatic
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