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My anchor and chain are galvanized steel, but I'm tempted to switch to stainless steel shackles to make it easier to remove the anchor for storage. The rep at West Marine told me that it was a bad idea for three reasons:
1. Stainless shackles are weaker
2. Stainless shackles are more likely to come loose on their own.
3. Galvanic corrosion could be a problem
So long as I make sure the shackle is hand tight each time I anchor, do you think this is anything to worry about?
Why change out something that is working in the first place?Just keep a plyers on board to unbolt the galv shackle.I think you will have the same problem with a ss one.
no BIG deal, hand tight and put a piece of heavy gauge copper wire through the pin hole and secure it loosely to the first link, so if the pin tried to undo itself ,it couldn't. use the copper with the sheath on it.
__________________ NO REGRETS GRADY WHITE 306 BIMINI,with hard top Rupp Radials Smith Carbon Fiber Outrigger 15ft poles-- 2007 SUZUKI 225 4 STROKES 16x18.5 x3 suzuki propps.5750 RPM AT 44 MPH (GPS MEASURED)HDS-10/P79 IN HULL DUCER Bennett tabs..
If properly tightened and secured (the little hole in the end is for safety wire) it is not more likely to come undone on its own. It is more likely to come undone when you want it to. The shackle, if properly sized, will be stong enough. I have stainless shackles and have not had a corrosion issue.
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My anchor and chain are galvanized steel, but I'm tempted to switch to stainless steel shackles to make it easier to remove the anchor for storage. The rep at West Marine told me that it was a bad idea for three reasons:
1. Stainless shackles are weaker
2. Stainless shackles are more likely to come loose on their own.
3. Galvanic corrosion could be a problem
So long as I make sure the shackle is hand tight each time I anchor, do you think this is anything to worry about?
I use a SS shackle. Been using it for several years. No corrosion problem whatsoever.
It could be weaker, just look at the rating for the shackle. You could go up one size in SS.
Hand tight is not good unless you secure it with a safety wire. The one I use is smooth, the bolt fits flush into the shackle and there's no provision for a safety wire so I use locktite on the threads. I don't switch it out on the boat, it just stays connected all the time. This might not work for you.
Be aware that stainless can guld the threads very easy without some type of grease on it. I actually use a diaelectric grease on small stuff like that, that you are taking apart and putting back together often. Antisize is really the best for it, BUT if you have ever fooled with antisize then you know if you open the can that stuff will just jump on you.
The dielectric grease lubs it and doesn't slim everything.
warthog5 - 10/7/2007 9:40 AM
............. Antisize is really the best for it, BUT if you have ever fooled with antisize then you know if you open the can that stuff will just jump on you.
You can buy SS threaded links up at least 3/8" maybe larger.Theyarequitestrong. I have been using them instead of shackles for years. There is no end sticking out like regular shackles to gouge fiberglass. I do coat the threads with waterproof marine grease. Been doing this for years and none of the disadvantages mentioned above have happened--not even close.
Wild Bill - 10/7/2007 10:50 AM You can buy SS threaded links up at least 3/8" maybe larger. They are quite strong. I have been using them instead of shackles for years. ...
A threaded link is NOT as strong as a good forged shackle !
True, but more than strong enough for an anchor for either of the boats listed by the poster.
Stainless Steel Shackle / Galvanized Chain 
use the copper with the sheath on it. 
-- 2007 SUZUKI 225 4 STROKES 16x18.5 x3 suzuki propps.5750 RPM AT 44 MPH (GPS MEASURED)
Bennett tabs.. 
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