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I have been mulling over buying a tow vehicle for my Pursuit. There is a high miles Ford F250 advertised in the trader section here with the 7.3. Would like to spend 10-12 thousand on a clean high mileage diesel and was looking for opinions on which to consider. I know this has been discussed to death here but I have not seen the question posed in this way.
150,000 plus miles- Dodge, GM or Ford? Thanks.
I'll go get the popcorn and beer and sit back and watch.
__________________ USCG 100 TON MASTER
Pursuit 2870 CC
Palm Beach 161
1984 Mckee Craft 14'
Sunset on the ICW
Madeira Beach, Fl
Honeymoon Harbor
Bimini
"Many times life gives you the test, before you learn the lesson!"
I had the perfect rig for you up until 2 weeks ago. 97 F350 crewcab 7.3 diesel 165000 miles and rediculously clean. Best of luck in your search, they are out there just gotta dig for them.
150k on a diesel is just broke in and ready to pull like crazy.....as long as it has been properly maintained.
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150k on a diesel is just broke in and ready to pull like crazy.....as long as it has been properly maintained.
I realise the maintenance is key but some powertrains start to show their colors, so to speak, in the repair department around this mileage. Blowers, transmissions, heads etc. Looking for that type of info.
__________________ USCG 100 TON MASTER
Pursuit 2870 CC
Palm Beach 161
1984 Mckee Craft 14'
Sunset on the ICW
Madeira Beach, Fl
Honeymoon Harbor
Bimini
"Many times life gives you the test, before you learn the lesson!"
I'm a Ford guy. To answer the question - either Ford or Dodge in the mileage you are talking about. Ford has plusher cab, Dodge is all bidness and no starch.
The truck advertised here on THT that you are talking about is a pretty good deal. Mulled it over myself.
And for the GM guys that will pound on me - wife drives a Tahoe and we own GM stock. So there.
Big Al
__________________ "Pedophiles must die" - Ted Nugent
The Ford 7.3s have a wiring harness under the valve covers that gets brittle and should be replaced at about 100k. The 7.3s have a strong resale value and seem to be good for many miles.
150k is just about broke in for a Cummins engine, at 175k they are broke in; at 350k they need an inframe o/h; at 650k they need they're second o/h. When you're looking for a Cummins, try to get one made before '98, that way it will be a 12 valve unit with mechanical pumps. My '97 in sig is on it's 2nd major o/h (677,321 mi) and was my main cross-country puller, that's now only used on the farm pulling 22,000# hay and stock trailers
__________________ Capt Alf Harvey
FV Miss Lily
Bocas del Toro
The engine may just be getting started at 150,000 miles. But there are an awful lot of other non-power train things that can go wrong on a vehicle with this many miles, some of them rather expensive. Don't forget to have a mechanic check them out.
I have all diesels but if I were looking for a used vhicle to pull the boat on occasions why rule anything out? Look
for a good deal and talk cash, might also talk to some dealers and let them know what you are looking for. Lots
of dealers do not want to deal with used vehicles with this much mileage and wholesale these trade ins quickly.
Look for a dealer with a small used lot and mostly new vehicles and be ready to buy.
As said above 150,000 is not bad on a good diesel engine....and the 7.3 is a good one. There are lots of guys around here towng every day with 200+ on 7.3's. I just sold my 2000 7.3 with 100,000 on it and felt kinda guilty because the truck was so mechanically sound and trouble free. But, when you got three kids growing you need a crew cab which is what I switched to. I think tranny would be my biggest concern.
The 7.3 is a good engine. I would check the oil pan and make sure it dosent look like it is almost rusted through. ( the oil pans on these engines are kind of thin) I think you got to pull the engine out to replace the pan. I would also check the water pump they leak often may be a good bargaining chip but by no means a deal braker. If You run a 7.3L always carry a spare cam sensor and the tools to replace it they fail often. They can be changed out on the road. Use a good oil like rottella and make sure its full or you can get a crank no start issue. Also I would check for a oil leak at the high pressure oil pump near the fuel filter. its not a deal braker but another good bargining chip for has a kit with updated o rings to repair. Most of these engines leak oil but if its leaking on the top of the motor it will drip into the engine valley and through a drain hole at the back of the engine. The oil then drains through the bell housing and collects on the bottom of the bell housing looking just like a rear main seal leak. Sorry I gues I rammbling on Good luck
For the entire package I would go with a Ford 7.3, I believe its an all around better truck
If you are looking strictly at the engine, without a doubt the cummins is a better engine. Not to say the 7.3 is a slouch, its a very long lived engine when maintained properly.
My advice though would be to stay away from the newer 6.0 from Ford, it has had its share of problems (I used to own one)
i would go with the 7.3 . Very good motor. can see 400-500K out of the motor. The cummins are very good too but the dodge truck isn't as good imo. You will still have to do some things to the ford but it should have a lot of life left.
At 150,000, the motor may be in great shape, but the injectors are probably gonna need to be replaced as well as most of the engine accessories. Also, if it is an automatic, you know that the tranny will be shot..... if it hasn't already been replaced numerous times. Not to mention wheel bearings, axle seals, u-joints, etc.
The 7.3 is a good engine. I would check the oil pan and make sure it dosent look like it is almost rusted through. ( the oil pans on these engines are kind of thin) I think you got to pull the engine out to replace the pan. I would also check the water pump they leak often may be a good bargaining chip but by no means a deal braker. If You run a 7.3L always carry a spare cam sensor and the tools to replace it they fail often. They can be changed out on the road. Use a good oil like rottella and make sure its full or you can get a crank no start issue. Also I would check for a oil leak at the high pressure oil pump near the fuel filter. its not a deal braker but another good bargining chip for has a kit with updated o rings to repair. Most of these engines leak oil but if its leaking on the top of the motor it will drip into the engine valley and through a drain hole at the back of the engine. The oil then drains through the bell housing and collects on the bottom of the bell housing looking just like a rear main seal leak. Sorry I gues I rammbling on Good luck
Amen on the cam position sensor....11 or 12mm wrench if I remember correctly. My truck was on # 3....only issue I ever had and the cheap little part will leave you high and dry.
I have heard about tran problems ,but I have a 95 dodge cummins that I have put through hell since day one.With over 2000,000 miles on it have had only one stupid problem with the trans,I wasnt paying attention fooling around and the trans way over heated,I thought I was fd but as it turned out all that happened was the plastic yes plastic fittings for the trans lines melted, what a mess but no harm other than that.As for the rest of the truck I just had to replace stuf that has worn such as a recent trac bar just 2 weeks ago,all stuff you would expect to replace after so many miles kinda expect it no matter what kind of vehicle.But as for the engine no I mean no problem,even with a banks system installed since day one.
First, let me say that i have owned a 2000 F350 7.3 diesel, 2000 f250 V10 gas, 2003 F250 6.0 diesel, 2006 GMC 6.6 diesel, 1997 Ram2500 12V diesel, and currently a 2004 Ram 2500 diesel.
If your going to keep it stock a Ford with the 7.3 would be my choice. Not super easy to work on but if kept stock will last very long. Mine had over 300k when sold and only had a couple sensors and 3 injectors replaced. All the dodges are much eaiser to work on than the others. The duramax trucks are good, but early ones had some injector issuses, and its VERY labor intensive to change them. Everbody seems to dog the dodge trucks but say the cummins is a good engine. I think both mine have been much more durable and better looking than ford or gm.
By the way, the only truck i had no problems with was the ford V10. It was sold with 228k miles and i owned it since new.
we repair ford dodges and chev every day of the week .
i own a 1998 1 ton dodge dually ctd . dyno over 500hp ,
my wifes truck is a 99 ,2500 that i bought with 180k on it .
I took it from stock to over 500hp dyno and front end has never ben touched but drives like new truck .
i rebuilt 5 spd as preventive maintance . truck has always ben reliable and still is reliable with over 220 k i have known this truck since new 1 inj pump , brakes a few times . and pinion seal in 185 k
for 2nd gen dodges i think the 1999 1998 have less issues
for 3 rd gen dodge i like the 2003 2004 the best
i have coustomers with 7.3 power strokes . with over 300k on them and are still good trucks .
you cant give me any of the other ford deisels .
I perfer the dodge but dont discount a 7.3 ford . and get a 350 ford if possible
the 2000 2001 7.3 trucks i think are the best trucks ford ever made
I like the dmax but wont own one and im a chevy guy at heart
just my .02cents good luck
__________________ If its on the back it better be mecury black because the race never ends .
2 stroke because 4 strokes are 2 to many and 1 is not enough
yes your suzuki has tons of toqure because its geared high enough to make a weed eater pull a house .!!!! Did you change your oil yet boy ???
I just went through this and ended up with a 2001 F250 extended cab 4x4 with the 7.3 auto and 173k on the odometer. I paid 12,450 + tax.
I looked at 3 trucks of this vintage before buying this one. I know 2 of the 3 were on their 2nd tranny. The third I didn't check. One was leaking coolant and oil and they wanted too much $$ for it. The truck I ended up buying had the water pump go out after my first serious tow (FL to LA) with a 21 foot boat. The pump would pour out coolant when I shut the motor off. I ended up making it home no problem though. Ran 30 miles topped off the coolant and it didn't leak again until I got home and shut her down. I guess the heat expanded the seals. Took me about 6 hours to replace myself and the part was $150 or so. It wasn't that big of a job but I had to go to the store a couple times to get fan wrenches etc. Oh and they had more torque on 10mm bolts then I thought possible. I bent my 10mm wrench getting some out.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with the truck but I expected more power / mileage. I had a 1991 (2WD) with the 7.3 before and the 2001 has more power on the top end but it still seems pretty doggy off the line (I know I know diesel truck). Also I don't get the fuel numbers that people swear they get. I get 14-15 in town and 8.5-11 towing. Not much different from my NA 1991 I can just town 5-10mph faster now. The dodge guys swear they get 20 empty.