*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Ressurecting a much discussed issue- Working with East Coast Trailers on how best to resolve "milky" oil in my oil bath hubs. Link to their answer is below- basic short facts- they have stopped using oil bath bubs because they basically always leak and sort of recommend replacing the hub with a grease fitting.
Thoughts?
1- give up and replace grease- if so what is best system to use?
2- go back and repair and fight with the dealer to replace repair as now 12 months and 3 weeks old?
Has anyone changed over to grease and what and what are the results?
Thanks
Henry R
Oil bath hubs, if properly manufactured and installed should not leak. They have been used on heavy trucks and construction equipment for years and hold up very well.
Have you checked your seals to see if they are the double lipped, spring loaded type? I had someone tell me they discovered they had single lipped seals and felt that they were causing the oil bath hubs to leak. I think he plans to try the oil again with some new double lipped, spring loaded seals.
How the single lipped seals got there in the first place is what I'm trying to find out. I don't think the article on the tiedown web site discusses the seals but I'm sure it's the most important factor in keeping the water out. The PDF does talk about using sealant if you have sleeves on the spindle.
I just had a lengthy discussion with Tiedown support regarding the oil bath hubs. There have been a couple of changes recently.
1. They are now using and recommending a double lipped seal that is not spring loaded. If you reference these universal numbers you should get the same seal at your local bearing shop.
3500# Axle - 171255TC
5200# Axle - 22333TBN
2. There is also a new threaded dust cap available. This cap does not require the use of a thread or RTV sealant as it has an O-ring that should be lubricated with the oil prior to installation.
Dust Cap w/O-ring - 48394A
Tiedown does not recommend any sealant on the rear seals. They do recommend you seal around any sort of wear seal that may have been applied to a spindle in order to keep it smooth.
Thanks for the replys
Will have to confirm what type they are with the dealer - now at the shop for other work. Hard to understand as Keyskid comments how this technology is so iffy?? given the large amount of industrial equipment using it. guess the fact that you sink the axle and hub as part of normal use is part of the story.
Part of the issue is the dealer really seems poorl;y trained to support the product and finding someone who can truly understand and support it is very hard
Thks
Henry R
Like you said, the trucks don't dunk and leave their wheels under water for 2-20 minutes (depending on your ramp expertise). Also keep in mind that hubs can be hot due to brakes and weather so their is expansion and contraction.
I would love to see these issues resolved. There appears to be little room for error in installation of the seals and dust caps.
My last trailer I installed Liqua-Lube oil baths on. I used it with that set up for a year and put close to 1500 miles on it before getting rid of trailer. No leaks - worked great and would definitely recommend. The seal they used for the inside was a different one in that it was a two piece. That is an inner seal that didnot rotate with the wheel - it just stays put on the spindle. The outer part of the seal rotates on the inner part. Its kind of like the inner part makes a new spindle for the outer part to spin on and seal against. These seals are available at local bearing shops - I got some here in Daytona Beach at Miller Bearings for spares. They are not cheap, but worked great. I think around $20 each. I think they called them oil bath seals.
The comment about sealing the sleeves is correct. You should pry them off if able without damaging them and put sealant on them. If you can't pry them off, carefully put a thin bead of sealant between sealant and spindle
vc
I have an 18 month old Loadmaster trailer with oil bath wheel hubs. One of them I have been unable to stop leaking since the trailer was new. First, the brand new trailer hub leaked, then Loadmaster sent me a new hub assembly, then I swapped the hub assembly for the one on my spare (purchased with the trailer). They all leaked. I gave up, drained and cleaned the hub and bearings and repacked with grease. The axle is already fitted with a grease fitting so it works OK. The only hassle is to remove the spin-on cap each time I top off the grease. The other 3 oil-bath hubs seem OK, but I watch them closely. I guess my problem hub may have something to do with the axle. Anyway, I'm tired of dealing with it, hence my fix. I'm "over" oil bath hubs.
The last few posts bring out the OTHER HALF of every hub installation be it an oil hub or a grease hub. THE AXLE ITSELF!! If the land (the smooth place on the spindle where the rear seal contacts the axle) is not correctly sized and mirror smooth any rear seal will leak. Fact is due to cost constraints, very few trailer axles are made to automotive quality standards. Their lands often exhibit laythe bit groves, many are undersized, and some builders don't even try to machine a good land instead opting for a stamped steel sleeve and an o-ring. Grease is thicker and stays behind an imperfect seal when oil will not. Add a bearing buddy and the grease filled hub wins a place on my trailers every time.
cfwegman - I agree, and have said the same thing in previous posts! I think the first post by remmer4 says it all! Once you get a leak all the oil will be gone, grease gives you a lot more protection!
When I purchased a new LoadMaster several months ago I was steered away from the oil baths just because of the problems discribed in this thread. Glad I did. Trucks aren't dunked underwater and I don't care how many lips the seal has, eventually, water will get in. Since the seal must spin on the spindle you can't seal it. You might keep water out for a while but not forever. I have never had a bearing problem anyway. I squirt a little grease in a few times a year, clean and repack once a year and am all set.
Charlie makes a very good point. Your seal will only be as good as what it's in contact with.
However, I don't care for bearing buddies (JMO). They seem to work ok at first but once you have removed them several times they tend to lose the orignal tight fit. The springs and O-ring are also subject to debree that keeps them from working properly. They must be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly each time you repack.
I prefer the posi-lube or accu-lube spindles because you can force that old grease out the front with minimal effort. Grease is relatively cheap and as the old stuff comes out you will know if you have had water intrusion.
Charlie, when can I beta test a set of those adjustable verticle rod holders you are working on?
Looks like this post reopened a lot of individual experience. FYI went to dealer and he confirmed that Loadmaster had told him the "only recommended fix" was to convert to grease using the existing grease fitting. Am doing this and cleaning and repacking all the bearings.
Sad because I really liked the original oil bath idea. definately felt cooler than grease on a long haul and gave you a very good idea of what you had around the bearings. (last year trailer Round trip Wilmington NC to Martjas Vineyard- )
Still love the load master trailer as a trailer-
Henry R
East Coast, I agree, thru spindle rear feed greasing vs. a spring loaded front dust cap is the cats meow. Unfortunately not many trailers have this great feature... including all of mine.
Also as you say, feeding the grease to the rear and pushing it out the front is an excellent way to change the grease without disassembling the hub.
So for now I use buddies and keep the bras on them else they make a terrible mess.
I tried a new brand, fancy black and red gizmos this past summer. They pressed on just like the buddies. Took them out for a spin and as I was turning the 2nd corner leaving the neighborhood I looked in the mirror and saw one bouncing across the road. Stopped to find all 4 had fallen off within 1/4 mile at 30 miles per hour??? I would have taken them back but could only find the one. Went back to the shop and put the old silver buddies back on, and their nasty bras and kept on going down the road. No problems. Same bearings since 1995.
Beta Testing? East Coast, my new, world's best looking, adjustable rod holders are on the store shelves now. What? me biased??? Never.
Oil Bath Hubs 
Stopped to find all 4 had fallen off within 1/4 mile at 30 miles per hour??? I would have taken them back but could only find the one. Went back to the shop and put the old silver buddies back on, and their nasty bras and kept on going down the road. No problems. Same bearings since 1995.
