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I bought a 2005 Loadrite trailer for my 1991 17' Outrage a couple of years ago and it's in new condition...the problem is I have difficulty launching and retrieving the boat during low tides...it's a bunk type trailer and I'm looking into either swapping it out for a roller trailer or just converting it to a roller trailer myself...has anyone done this before? If it were an older trailer it would be a non-issue...I'd just swap out trailers but this trailer is practically new and it seems to be on the same frame as the roller...I'm just trying to reduce the difficulty using a ramp with a low angle...
I think that the way Whalers hulls are designed that you have to use a bunk type setup. Not sure if it's that way for all Whalers, so you might want to check on that for your boat.
I think that the way Whalers hulls are designed that you have to use a bunk type setup. Not sure if it's that way for all Whalers, so you might want to check on that for your boat.
You can use a roller trailer for a whaler but it is not a typical roller trailer. It has individual bunks with a number of rollers on each one and they swivel. It escapes me right now what they ar ecalled but I bet someone will pipe up with the name in a few.
__________________ Ignorance is bliss, but stupid HURTS
USCG 1600 ton Master Oceans, Master of Towing, Master of Aux. Sail. Master of Baiting
If you are able to use a roller trailer on your BW, I think it will solve your launching problems. I faced the same low water situations as you do. I always needed to be aware of tide stage and time my launch/retrieve accordingly. With the roller trailer that I switched to last season, tide stage at the ramp is a non-factor. The boat does not need to be floating to come off the trailer. I could easily push the boat off and crank it back on in my driveway if I wanted to.
Don't know how rollers work with a Whaler so I will defer to those that own them.
But with my 17' Key West, a roller trailer introduced another set of problem. Easy to get off, in fact too easy. I don't even take off the safety chain until it's backed down & the motor is in the water. Otherwise you’ll likely leave the boat on the dry part of the ramp.
It’s a pain in the arse for me to load by myself. I have to leave the trailer in the water shallow enough so the tops of the adjusting back rollers are out of the water to catch the bow. Once the bow is in place, you power the boat on the trailer (this is pretty easy) but you have to keep the boat in gear until you attach the wench strap or it will roll back down & off the trailer. So I leave the motor in gear at ~ 2000 rpm, run to the bow, hook the strap with a boathook, and lean over the bow to put the hook in the bow eye. Then I can cut the motor off but now I have to get of the boat and then have to crank the boat up to the bow stop - maybe 4 ft.
Maybe this is just a problem with my boat and trailer and the places I launch but I will not own another “self-adjusting” roller trailer again.
__________________ Life is like a jar of jalapeños. What you do today, might burn your arse tomorrow
........ But with my 17' Key West, a roller trailer introduced another set of problem. Easy to get off, in fact too easy. I don't even take off the safety chain until it's backed down & the motor is in the water. Otherwise you’ll likely leave the boat on the dry part of the ramp.
Why is that a problem? Leave the strap and chain attached until the boat is over the water. Why would you do otherwise?
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It’s a pain in the arse for me to load by myself. I have to leave the trailer in the water shallow enough so the tops of the adjusting back rollers are out of the water to catch the bow. Once the bow is in place, you power the boat on the trailer (this is pretty easy) but you have to keep the boat in gear until you attach the wench strap or it will roll back down & off the trailer. So I leave the motor in gear at ~ 2000 rpm, run to the bow, hook the strap with a boathook, and lean over the bow to put the hook in the bow eye. Then I can cut the motor off but now I have to get of the boat and then have to crank the boat up to the bow stop - maybe 4 ft.
I suggest you go to a local ramp or two and watch other people with roller trailers load their boats. It's not as difficult as you make it out to be. As for cranking it 4 ft, why is the strap 20' long if it's not made to winch the boat? And have you ever heard of an electric winch? That will winch your boat just as fast as a manual one and it's much easier.
I bought a 2005 Loadrite trailer for my 1991 17' Outrage a couple of years ago and it's in new condition...the problem is I have difficulty launching and retrieving the boat during low tides...it's a bunk type trailer and I'm looking into either swapping it out for a roller trailer or just converting it to a roller trailer myself...has anyone done this before? If it were an older trailer it would be a non-issue...I'd just swap out trailers but this trailer is practically new and it seems to be on the same frame as the roller...I'm just trying to reduce the difficulty using a ramp with a low angle...
thanks for the input...
DaveS
You might try watching other people launch and retrieve their boats and see how they do it. Some will offer advice if you ask. Also, look at your trailer and see if there's any way to lower the boat. Or you may be able to put the trailer further into the water to make it easier.
Now if you see someone backing a tow vehicle in until the exhaust is under water, don't ask that person for advice.
If you want the boat to slip off the trailer easy,go out and buy some strips of teflon and screw them on top of the runner boards.Do keep a strap hooked on your boat or it will end up on the backdown pad.Very easy fix!I see alot of people adding that to there trailers for big boats.
Here's how I launch and retrieve with a roller trailer:
I keep the safety chain on and winch cable tight as I back down the ramp. I back down far enough so that the winch post is near the waters edge, but still on dry land so that I can get to it without getting my feet wet. I attach a 15' docking line to the bow eye with a large SS snap hook and wrap the line around the vertical member of the winch post two or three times. I unhook the safety and reverse the winch letting the boat slide back while maintaining a grip on the docking line. After the boat slides back a foot or two the weight of the boat will be held by the docking line so that I can unhook the winch cable from the bow eye. Now as I loosen my grip on the docking line the boat will begin sliding back, and I can control the speed by how tightly I grip the line as it runs through my hand. The friction created by wrapping the line around the winch post easily holds the boat and you actually have very little weight in your hands. Once I tie up the boat to the dock I just reach down and unhook the snap and docking line. Another time saving aspect of this method is that you only have a couple of feet of winch cable out, and don't have to waste time cranking 20' of cable back in.
To retrieve I back the trailer to the same spot in relation to the water. At his point the boat is tied up at the dock even with the back of the trailer. I pull out enough cable and walk along the dock and attach it to the bow eye. I then walk back to the winch and crank the boat in. It takes probably a minute and not a lot of effort to crank in a 2500# boat. If I don't have a dock adjacent to the ramp I get a hold of the bow line and pull the boat so that it is started on the trailer. I will then walk out and attach the winch strap.
If you want the boat to slip off the trailer easy,go out and buy some strips of teflon and screw them on top of the runner boards.Do keep a strap hooked on your boat or it will end up on the backdown pad.Very easy fix!I see alot of people adding that to there trailers for big boats.
Good suggestion. You can buy these ready made for boat trailers. I've heard they work well.
They have a reason for putting a bunk trailer under your boat it is called support. The trailer is made to transport and support the hull to prevent damage to the hull. It appears you need to practice launching and retreiving as others have stated. I have owned a BW and learned from the dealer that they have a reason for putting diffrent type of trailers under diffrent boats.
__________________ Living in South Carolina, fishing any place. "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf". G. Orwell
Why is that a problem? Leave the strap and chain attached until the boat is over the water. Why would you do otherwise?
I've seen folks/had friends with bunk trailers unhook at the top of the ramp. I don't like it and just tossed that out.
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I suggest you go to a local ramp or two and watch other people with roller trailers load their boats. It's not as difficult as you make it out to be. As for cranking it 4 ft, why is the strap 20' long if it's not made to winch the boat? And have you ever heard of an electric winch? That will winch your boat just as fast as a manual one and it's much easier.
Let's see, 10 years of lauching this boat at dozens of ramps. I'm not a complete idjut. . It's a snap with two people, just a pain in the arse by myself. An electric WINCH is overkill for that 17' boat, IMO.
I think I qualified my post quite nicely with my boat and my trailer and my issues. Others may have had a difference experience with roller trailers. It will be bunks for *me.*
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It's a winch strap. A "wench" is a pirate woman.
Bingo! I knew it didn't look right but it passed spellcheck. Doh!
Having a wench onboard with me driving the boat to the bow stop would make using the winch much easier.
__________________ Life is like a jar of jalapeños. What you do today, might burn your arse tomorrow
most folks tell me that bunk only with keel rollers is correct for BW. I have a 1970 17' BW with bunks and keel rollers. I too have to be careful to launch, I need to sink my boat deep to get it to slide off. If I have someone driving my truck I can power assist the boat off the trailer with the motor in the water.
But again I would confirm with BW on the trailer type first, I hear that rollers can damage the gel coat.
I had a 18' Outrage with bunks. I put the Teflon strips on the bunks and they helped some but I had to watch the tides. The Maryland Marine Police (NRP) have Outrages in the 18' and 19' lengths. All the NRP Whalers have roller trailers due to problems with shallow ramps. In that I had a 18' Outrage I would check out the bottoms of the NRP boats and I never noticed any dimples in the bottom caused by the rollers. Some of the MD NRP Whalers are antiques and still in service.
There is a product that can be sprayed onto the bunks to make them more slick. I think it is called liquid rollers.
I have not used it but I also have the same problem with my bunk trailer. I was thinking of placing plastic on the forward part of the bunks and using this product on the back. This is common for cat trailers.
Any other solutions besides replacing the bunks with rollers are welcomed.
A proper roller trailer will never cause damage to the hull. A roller trailer with an electric winch is NOT overkill for a 17 to 19' boat. I used that combo for over 20 years, launched solo all the time and never had a problem. I always let the winch do the whole loading and never powered on, which can be dangerous with a heavy boat and steep ramp.
__________________ ================================================== ==
A bad day fishing is always better than a good day at work.
Trailer question 
Then I can cut the motor off but now I have to get of the boat and then have to crank the boat up to the bow stop - maybe 4 ft. 
