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I bought a replacement trailer jack today. It was from a major manufacturer, someone we've all used for winches, jacks etc. Quality products..but. Their latest version of the "swingaway" jack is BOLT THROUGH MOUNTING.
After getting it home and realizing that they wanted me to drill a 5/8 inch (approx) hole through my Galvanized trailer..I took it right back to the store. My trailers don't need any help starting to rust in various spots.
Just a warning for anyone buying a replacement trailer jack these days..check the box or be prepared to drill a large hole through your trailer rail. RichG
I'm hoping that some other manufacturer has a "standard" bolt-on mount trailer jack still available. The "top-wind" and other non-swing-away styles stil had the older mounting. I'd prefer the swing-away style, but will not drill the trailer rails just to mount a jack, unless that is the only option left.
Location: Quebec, Canada and Pirates Cove, OBX, NC
Posts: 17,813
Trailer jack; drill through Galv Trailer????
I don't often like to disagree with other members, but here goes . . . don't worry about weakening your trailer's frame . . . look at truck frames, they have holes all over the place but they follow basic principles . . . read the following
ALSO, I think you are saying that the manufacturer of the trailer said to drill the hole ? ! ?
I assume that your trailer's frame is either an "I-Beam" or a boxed frame . . . rectangular tubing . . . I am also ASSUMING that you are drilling a HORIZONTAL hole into the tongue (frame) of the trailer and that this piece is not a small cross member or bracket
Drilling the hole will not weaken the frame if the closest edge of the hole is at least 1" from the top or bottom of the frame member
Once the hole is drilled, you need to ream or file the edges so that they are smooth . . . relieves stresses and prevents cuts etc.
HOWEVER, if the hole is closer than 1" from the top or bottom of the frame I strongly suggest that you will need to weld a reinforcing plate to the frame (1 for I-beams and two for rectangular tubing . . . one each side)
IF you have and doubts, OR if you think that your trailer is poorly constructed, then go to a trailer shop and get the jack professionally installed.
PS I drilled more than 20 holes into mt trailer frame two weeks ago to move the axles forward 2 1/2 feet and to add some side bunks and associated stuff . . . I am not worried about strength issues
. . . just thinking out loud . . . yes, I'm "Miss-Be-Haven"
My concern is two fold, neither of which had to do with the strength issue..on which you seem most comfortable.
1. is ...the builder expects the normal handyman/boater to have a 5/8 or so metal drill readily available. I've got a shop that is the envy of many of my friends..(mostly a woodworking shop, I'll admit) and I don't have a 5/8th metal cutting drill, nor do I expect to be needing one in the near future.
2... any drilling through a galvanized trailer is exposing it to a far bettter chance of rust. True, I can spray on the galvanized paint, but it simply isn't the same. I had a personal experience where I had the
"professionals" put some new non-galvanized fenders and hangers on a prior trailer. They sprayed everthing in sight. It all was rusted one year later.
No, I think the manufacturer had best re-think there new " Stronger better" approach and make a product that can be BOLTED on to a galvanized frame without putting the buyer through all of this nonsense, just to simply replace a rusted ( non-galvanized!!! ) earlier model trailer jack.
Your points about strength are probably accurate..
The expected drilling and re-galvanizeing are my objections.
I tried to drill new holes in my galvanized trailer in an effort to install new running lights but failed miserably. I burned up and smoothed out several bits before realizing I couldn't do it with my el cheapo Home Depot specials. That's when I broke out the ole 5200 and caulked them badboys on. Hey, they're still holding on strong so what the heck.
Don't think that would work on your trailer jack though.
If that was the case I'd really be in trouble, considering she got half of everything this past summer. How else do you think I managed to get free for the spring fling. I probably should have used a little bit of 5200 on her ring finger too. Hmmmmmmmmm, maybe a new marketing stategy for 3-M?
I was wrong, it appears. I moaned about a new design trailer jack on my original message here. Yesterday, I observed a similar jack, properly mounted, that did NOT require drilling a big hole in the trailer. I may have been trying to install the jack incorrectly. Hope I didn't disuade anyone from buying/trying such a jack. RichG
If you are opposed to drilling a hole in a galv. trailer, fine. I think you are overreacting though. most trailer couplers are thru bolted with 1/2" bolts, and if you are routinely submerging that end of your trailer, then theres a problem . Any twist drill will drill thru mild steel. All you need is a $2 chinese-made drill bit, and drill a small pilot hole first. If someone has problems then no doubt they are using too high rpm and burning the temper from the bit. go slow and periodically dip the tip in oil.
mbb The diffrence is the holes have been drilled and then the trailer was galivinzed. So no bare metal is exposed.
But alas it was improper reading of the instructions and it didn't need to be drilled at all.
My swing jack on one of my trailers just has 2 straps that go on the other side of the frame and 4 bolts go thru the plate on the jack and across the frame rail, then thru the straps on the other side of the frame rail with nulon lock nuts on them.
This is pretty much the norm and is adjustable with the multi holes in the brackets for diffrent size frame rails.
Trailer jack; drill through Galv Trailer???? 
Time for a refill 
