trailer wheels - The Hull Truth

Springline · 12-23-2006, 03:39 PM

I am getting my dual axle boat trailer ready for my trip to Key Largo from S. Jersey. The trailer was new last year so this will
be its second trip south. I jacked each side of the trailer up to check for play in the bearings. On each of the front wheels( axle with the brakes) there was no play. On the rear wheels there is a slight amount of play. My question is how much play is acceptable if any? Also on the wheels with bakes , each wheel rubs slightly when jacked up. Is this normal?

Harry Brosofsky · 12-23-2006, 03:49 PM

What is the loaded capacity of the trailer? If it is over 3K, you need to put brakes on all axles before you tow to the Keys. This is the law in FL and is enforced in the Keys.

The drag on the brakes is normal, especially for disc brakes, but should not be excessive. A slight amopunt of play is acceptable on teh bearings, but I can't quantify it for you. I usually tighten the nut while rotating the wheel until it starts to drag, then back off 1/8-1/6 turn to line up the castellation for the cotter pin. Recheck them after 100 miles, and then every 500 miles.

Harry

kerno · 12-23-2006, 04:05 PM

Some play is required - no play is not acceptable. Ideally, you tighten the bearing until the nut is snug and then back it off one flat. As is often noted, the best bet is to buy and infrared thermometer (Grainger, Radio Shack, eBay) and tow the trailer a few miles and check the hub temps. On the tow south, check every tire and every hub whenever you stop. You'll find any bearing that are not happy as well as any tires that are underinflated or overloaded. With a tandem trailer, if the tire pressures are the same, if one axle pair of tires runs warmer than the other, the tongue may be too high or low, placing more load on one axle.

A bit of brake drag is normal. Shoes type brakes should just skim and usually show some out or round in the drum by hitting a couple spots as they turn. Discs have some drag all the way around. My rules of thunb are: A hub with discs on it will run 5 -15 degrees warmer than a hub with no brakes. The tires should be less than 20 degrees warmer than the ambient temp or road surface temp, which ever is higher. Tires on a axle with or without brakes should be about the same unless you've been doing a lot of braking.

Springline · 12-23-2006, 04:47 PM

Thanks for the info. I think everything is Ok. The trailer is rated for 4400lbs. and the boat is an 18 ft Hydrasports. i have a small single axle trailer but I figure that the dual axle should be safer for the trip. Have a Great Holiday!!!

kerno · 12-23-2006, 05:30 PM

I'm going to play the devil's advocate and suggest that going from a single to a tandem axle at your load may cause more problems than it solves. As is, the trailer itself probably weighs about 1000 pounds. You can take it to a truck scale and find out for sure, but if I was responsible for towing it, I'd listen to the bearings first. Jack up the wheel and spin it. You don't want to hear a rumbling or growling from the bearing. Then pop the dust cover off and look at the grease. It should all be the same color and have no water drops condensed on the inside of the dust cover. If that's all good, I'd look at the tires and make sure that they are "D" rated. If not, I'd replace them. I want: "D" tires, a set of bearings, pre-assembled and greased in a hub (about $60.00), the tools to change the hub, an infrared thermometer, a jack that works on the trailer and a mounted spare tire.

All of that will cost you far less than adding an axle, another set of brakes and new fenders. A flat tire or bad bearing on a tandem leaves you just as stuck as a flat on a single. You also have twice as many things to maintain and lose maneuverability with the tandem.

I want fewer axles, not more. I'm also the same guy who brought the a new tandem axle trailer (built to my specs with "E" rated 16's) to the Jupiter dealer and had them load a 31 on it. They said they'd never seen a Jupiter 31 on only two axles. I said "why not?" and towed it from Florida to California without incident - including going through Arizona in 118 degrees. Did you know the speed limit in West Texas is 80? Did I tow at 80? I'll let you guess.....

rogerstg · 12-24-2006, 09:14 AM

Quote:

kerno - 12/23/2006 4:30 PM
A flat tire or bad bearing on a tandem leaves you just as stuck as a flat on a single. You also have twice as many things to maintain and lose maneuverability with the tandem.

Unless your tandem is loaded to the max, which his clearly is not, you can remove the tire and run on 3 wheels - so you're not stuck.
Also, a tandem tends to want to pull straight so there is less potential for fishtailing.

kerno · 12-24-2006, 09:39 PM

Having been there, I have to disagree. If you remove one tire from a tandem axle setup, the spring hanger toggles and the axle without a wheel drops and the other rises to where the tire hits the fender. I have been able to tow a triple axle on five wheels, but the last flat I had on a tandem left me right where I stopped and a burned spot on the fender from where the tire rubbed. If the trailer has torsion axles, you chances of still being able to move are better.

welder · 12-24-2006, 10:00 PM

duct tape and bailing wire.

come along or chain and binder.

or

spare set of bearings and a spare tire.

iopturbo · 12-25-2006, 12:02 AM

Quote:

kerno - 12/23/2006 4:30 PM

I'm going to play the devil's advocate and suggest that going from a single to a tandem axle at your load may cause more problems than it solves. As is, the trailer itself probably weighs about 1000 pounds. You can take it to a truck scale and find out for sure, but if I was responsible for towing it, I'd listen to the bearings first. Jack up the wheel and spin it. You don't want to hear a rumbling or growling from the bearing. Then pop the dust cover off and look at the grease. It should all be the same color and have no water drops condensed on the inside of the dust cover. If that's all good, I'd look at the tires and make sure that they are "D" rated. If not, I'd replace them. I want: "D" tires, a set of bearings, pre-assembled and greased in a hub (about $60.00), the tools to change the hub, an infrared thermometer, a jack that works on the trailer and a mounted spare tire.

All of that will cost you far less than adding an axle, another set of brakes and new fenders. A flat tire or bad bearing on a tandem leaves you just as stuck as a flat on a single. You also have twice as many things to maintain and lose maneuverability with the tandem.

I want fewer axles, not more. I'm also the same guy who brought the a new tandem axle trailer (built to my specs with "E" rated 16's) to the Jupiter dealer and had them load a 31 on it. They said they'd never seen a Jupiter 31 on only two axles. I said "why not?" and towed it from Florida to California without incident - including going through Arizona in 118 degrees. Did you know the speed limit in West Texas is 80? Did I tow at 80? I'll let you guess.....

I agree 100%. there isn't a boat made that needs 3 axles. I don't know why boat trailer manufacturers don't put on the higher rated axles and tires. Turning a triple axle is a pain in the a.ss.

kerno · 12-25-2006, 01:04 AM

You mean like when you look in the mirror and see that as you are turning, the tires look like they're going to peel right off the rims? Triples don't turn, so much as they skid around corners.

Afishinado · 12-25-2006, 09:05 AM

Sternline. Enjoy your trip! Just check your hubs & tires at each fill up. The infrared is nice, I have one, but I don't bother using it anymore, my hand can sense the heat.
I'll be right behind ya on the last ferry Jan 1st.

Springline · 12-25-2006, 11:25 AM

Afishinado- I'm leaving the last week of January. In you post you said that you take the ferry. Im curious to the route you take. We have used the Del. Mem. bridge to I 95. Not much fun in the Balt. DC area. Do you use the Ches. Tunnell? It looks a bit longer ,but easier drive.