*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: You can run, you can hide, but it just means you will die tired
Today we pulled my cockpit floor and remove my gas tank outof my Formula. i could not believe how much gas that foam held. Afterwards, as a reward, we did a little flyfishing and had some back-country elk stew. Tough day at the office. Seriously, that really sucked. i don't think that i could ever foam in a tank after today's experience. Hope the pics come out OK.
d
[This message was edited by Psycho D on 07-13-03 at 05:58 AM.]
[This message was edited by Psycho D on 07-13-03 at 06:00 AM.]
Man that looks like fun! I'm leaving to go to the boat and do the same exact thing (I have to drain about 50 gals first). Keep the pics coming, I love seeing other people's projects.
Here is another closeup pic of the foam. Not sure if it will be obvious, but the gloved fingertip is underneath a fuel/water mixture. It was more like snow cone ice than foam.
Here is what i am curious about. If i decide to foam in around the stringers (NOT THE NEW TANK) with an adequate drainage system, will any wetted foam still retain water or will it slowly drain to the bilge due to gravity? Gotta go. i have some defoaming to get to.
d
I am building a box stringer system and I plan on foaming in the side compartments (and any other sections that are just taking up space). I will have no drainage as these sections will be completly sealed. I think when water comes in contact with ANY foam, it will begin the deterioration process, closed cell or not.
I really don't understand why you want to replace the foam. There can't be that much "floation" enhancement. Is there some structual advantage to fill those voids? Is it only for "sound proofing"? I would think that open space around the stringers would enhance ventilation, provide easy access and perhaps some storage potential.
Please, I'm not doubting your motives, just curious.
I took mine out of my formula a few weeks ago. It was not foamed in though. What a PITA. Now it's sitting in the back yard quarter full of gas. Not sure what to do with it now...
Hey horseradish. My only thoughts of filling the stringer system with foam was to quiet the ride and possibly make the ride a little softer (not really sure if the latter is true). That said, after digging out foam all day, i am really reconsidering foaming in the stringers. There was actually some drainage for the gas tank bilge and yet the foam was still waterlogged. i have a hard time believing that anything on a boat can be made truly waterproof. i would sure hate for my "foam system" to be really a "sponge system." We''ll see.
d
[This message was edited by Psycho D on 07-13-03 at 08:56 PM.]
horseradish....as far as floatation goes, you are right, it won't really do much for a 4,000lb boat heading south. But, if the area will be sealed anyway, why not add the foam if not just for acoustics. Something like 2lb (which is what most do-it-yourselfers use) has no structural integrity, but has the most boyancy. I don't think you get structural foam until around 8lb. In psycho's last pic, there is the outermost areas that will probably not be used for storage (unless he adds rod storage). Areas like that you might as well foam in, especially if your deck goes to the hull sides and will be glassed to the top of all the stringers and there will be no ventilation there anyway. The way I see it is, why not? I would hate to want to add it later because my empty compartments sounded like bongos on the way out to my fishing grounds.
WIth the foam if you do knock a hole in it the foam will not let but so much water in to start with. The only areas not foamed on my formula is down the middle. I put 2 plugs in each end the tank hole to section off those areas. I think between all the foam and trapped air Mine would not go down. Never want to test that either.
For drainage do this take pvc pipe 1" dia drill 3/8-1/2" hole's every 6 inch's down the length But leave 120 degrees solid (bottom part of pipe) wrap it in cheese cloth and strip glass it in place in the low spot's ov the compartment's . besur there is a drain hole from all outside compartment's to bilge. fill with 8lb foam here is a link http://www.fgci.com/ trim it off it will provide structure and sound the pvc will aid drainage... it's a little more work but your there already ...Good luck John
great post and great picts!...you are doing a
fine job and will be rewarded with a safer and
more valuable boat....sadly, short of doing what
you did, there isnt any way to know what the
tank is doing down there!....if you have big
bucks, you could sink the new tank into 5200?!
dan
Lookin' good. I feel your pain. Do you have any help? I had some for the first time this weekend, made a world of difference.
Foam... What bothers me the most about foam or even closed air tight chambers without foam is that condensation forms on the inside of the hull while the boat is sitting in the water. This moisture is gonna collect somewhere. I've seen it form in my bilge before. I'm wondering if the foamed areas don't sweat (form condensation) or do they? And if they do then the foam must be absorbing the water. Will condensation form in a closed air tight chamber? Hell I have no clue,but I gotta figure this out soon since I'm gonna be putting a new deck in the Mako soon.
pulled cockpit sole today 
