Dockside Chat - Which Synthetic Oil to run in the new Stang

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FloataBoat
06-20-2013, 10:53 AM
I'm fixing to do my first oil change on my new Mustang GT; switching over to full synthetic. In the past I've used Mobil 1 in my vehicles, but have been thinking about trying Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline. Ford recommends 5w-20, but from my research folks are saying to go with 5w-30, due to it being able to provide more longevity for the motor. Folks said that Ford's requiring the 5w-20 is only so they fall within the CAFE standards......??? Found info here http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-2014-mustangs-354/777808-synthetic-oils.html

What's y'all's experience, opinions, or recommendations on this.

Thanks :thumbsup:


Design59
06-20-2013, 11:03 AM
I have run Mobil-1 in everything since the late seventies. For a long time a long distance commuter (30-40k miles per year) never had an issue. I hear good things about the others, but I have stuck with what has worked. I change every 10k, and filter every 5k.

I use 5w-30 - but I think I would go with what the factory recommends until you live out the warranty.

Cracker
06-20-2013, 11:32 AM
Mobil 1 has always been my pick...


waybomb
06-20-2013, 11:58 AM
I believe Mobil1 is the only PAO base stock "synthetic" oil normally available to consumers.

The word "synthetic" has been bastardized. Now even petroleum base stock can be labelled "synthetic" based on the processing used to make it.

Use Gold Cap - the bottle with the gold cap. Walmart - 26 bucks for a five quart jug. Anywhere else, over 32 bucks for the same thing.

PAO oil is the way to go.

Parthery
06-20-2013, 12:08 PM
X4 for Mobil 1. You can get six quarts at Costco for about $26 when they are running the coupon, which is usually every couple months.

NCcarguy
06-20-2013, 12:13 PM
I'm going to disagree with all of the above. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 2007 Mustang GT and I've changed the oil on it every 5000 miles, and mostly within 100 miles of that milestone. I've used the Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend that Ford recommends and the FL-820s filter. That car runs as good as it did when I purchased it with 3 miles on it. There's no way I would do or recommend anything else.

Taken a month ago....

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc391/NCcarguy/IMG_4543.jpg

WPBTH
06-20-2013, 12:14 PM
been using amsoil, no complaints

Garett
06-20-2013, 12:15 PM
Well I can certainly say I'm impressed and a believer in Royal Purple in my 2500 Ram 4x4's transfer case and both carriers....much smooother and better fuel mileage. I can't say about the engine yet, I haven't got that far.

muffinman51432
06-20-2013, 12:25 PM
If i could get amsoil i would run that. I have used mobile 1 in every vehicle i have had.

DVR
06-20-2013, 12:51 PM
On the mustang forums people seem to like royal purple. I'm planning to use royal purple, amsoil or mobil1. Haven't decided yet. Got my 2014 GT about 2 weeks ago and I only have 64 miles on it. BTW I'm pretty sure they hold 8qts.

twentynine
06-20-2013, 12:52 PM
Mobil 1 or the Motorcraft.

nunjabusiness
06-20-2013, 12:54 PM
I'm going to disagree with all of the above. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 2007 Mustang GT and I've changed the oil on it every 5000 miles, and mostly within 100 miles of that milestone. I've used the Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend that Ford recommends and the FL-820s filter. That car runs as good as it did when I purchased it with 3 miles on it. There's no way I would do or recommend anything else.

Taken a month ago....



Nice choice of color :grin:
Here's mine. Also an '07, but a California Special in a ragtop with a few mods.
http://i.imgur.com/c0CT3Gj.jpg

I agree with the Motorcraft recommendation, and I also like Castrol's full synth.
IMO, Purple and Mobil1 are overpriced for no real reason.

Jim McQuade
06-20-2013, 01:04 PM
In my 12 GT I use the Ford recommended 5w20 blend that came in the car. I do use the upgrade FRPP filter.

I was surprised to see that the recommended change is 10K. Do not even get close to that before I change it.

8 Quarts it is.

magua
06-20-2013, 03:02 PM
I'm fixing to do my first oil change on my new Mustang GT; switching over to full synthetic. In the past I've used Mobil 1 in my vehicles, but have been thinking about trying Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline. Ford recommends 5w-20, but from my research folks are saying to go with 5w-30, due to it being able to provide more longevity for the motor. Folks said that Ford's requiring the 5w-20 is only so they fall within the CAFE standards......??? Found info here http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-2014-mustangs-354/777808-synthetic-oils.html

What's y'all's experience, opinions, or recommendations on this.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Wait until you see the new one.

LI32
06-20-2013, 03:03 PM
In all of my recent Mustangs 2006 GT, 2010 GT & 2013 GT500, that all require 5w20, I run Mobil 1 5w20. The manufacturer has a spec (5w20) for a reason, and it is based upon their testing and engineering - don't second guess them based upon internet chatter or some mechanic.

fishingfun
06-20-2013, 03:20 PM
I'm going to disagree with all of the above. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 2007 Mustang GT and I've changed the oil on it every 5000 miles, and mostly within 100 miles of that milestone. I've used the Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend that Ford recommends and the FL-820s filter. That car runs as good as it did when I purchased it with 3 miles on it. There's no way I would do or recommend anything else.

Taken a month ago....

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc391/NCcarguy/IMG_4543.jpg

Funny how car manufactures never recomend a product that they don't own. While motorcraft is probably a great oil there is only one reason Fod recomends the product $$$$$$$$$.

coores14
06-20-2013, 03:58 PM
My opinion is that any of the big name synthetics are perfectly fine. Mobil1, Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc. They all produce quality oils and will do what you want. I have yet to be convinced that the higher priced Amsoil, Royal Purple, or whatever will be that much better than Mobil1.

I generally run Mobil1 in my outboard and in my 40 year old Ford truck I will run whatever synthetic is on sale. That big 360 purrs like a kitten no matter what's in it.

Mars5L
06-20-2013, 04:07 PM
I think the more important part is changing your oil regularly.

FloataBoat
06-20-2013, 04:37 PM
On the mustang forums people seem to like royal purple. I'm planning to use royal purple, amsoil or mobil1. Haven't decided yet. Got my 2014 GT about 2 weeks ago and I only have 64 miles on it. BTW I'm pretty sure they hold 8qts.

Nice! I got my 2013 about a month ago. I've got the 373s, Ford Racing Axle Back Exhaust, and the Steeda CAI w/tune. I highly recommend the CAI, it's crazy that it unleashed a good amount of hp/torque that you can actually feel. I can't wait to run it down the 1/4. Next on my wish list is a Boss Intake, Kooks Long Tube Headers, and some suspension mods. I had a little fun at a stop light last Friday night with a. C6 Vette.

As for the oil, I guess I'll stick with the Mobil 1. My Honda had 195k when I sold it, my F150 had 187k, and my Cherokee had 303k all with no problems. My buddy wants me to go with Amsoil since he sells it. On the Royal Purple I've read somewhere that it doesn't meet some kind of standards or something like that....??

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk123/Searunner_2008/photo2.jpg (http://s279.photobucket.com/user/Searunner_2008/media/photo2.jpg.html)

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk123/Searunner_2008/photo3.jpg (http://s279.photobucket.com/user/Searunner_2008/media/photo3.jpg.html)

Flot
06-20-2013, 04:42 PM
Has anyone actually seen an oil related failure in a daily driver engine in the last 20 years? (not counting the folks who forgot to change their oil for 40,000 miles)

For every royal purple fanatic who has "never had a problem" there are 100 yahoos who take their car to jiffy lube every 5,000 miles and have also never had a problem.

I would be inclined to pay clos(er) attention to oil in a turbocharged engine, and I use Suzuki oil in my motors because they're under warranty and we all know marine powerheads blow... but otherwise...

PF-88
06-20-2013, 04:48 PM
I use Autozone 5-30 exclusuvely in my GT40.

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ctl/60154/image/2/

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a8/1965_Ford_GT-40.jpg

DVR
06-20-2013, 04:56 PM
I think you may be correct on the royal purple not meeting some certification.

I got the 3.73 gear ratio, 6 speed manual and brembo brake package. I've wanted one for 30 years.

mrandell
06-20-2013, 05:10 PM
I believe Mobil1 is the only PAO base stock "synthetic" oil normally available to consumers.

The word "synthetic" has been bastardized. Now even petroleum base stock can be labelled "synthetic" based on the processing used to make it.

Use Gold Cap - the bottle with the gold cap. Walmart - 26 bucks for a five quart jug. Anywhere else, over 32 bucks for the same thing.

PAO oil is the way to go.

I pulled this from Bob is the Oil Guy forum:
The API classifies oils into five different groups.

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity. Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes. AMSOIL XL Motor Oils, Castrol Syntec and many others fall into this category.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Motor Oils and Mobil 1 primarily use group IV basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III.

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not fall into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. Redline uses an ester basestock.

*****End of Copy

I use redline 10w30 in my STI because it's a turbo application, I need the viscosity and the cooling properties. Your engine isn't as tuned/pushed to the limit. You can probably get by with Mobile 1 without any issues. I'd probably go with Amsoil. Royal Purple will run smoother, rev better, but will probably run hotter (it's not as viscos). Mobile 1 will almost never be better than AMSOIL, Redline or Royal Purple. They're all different, but there have been quite a few horror stories about tuned turbo applications blowing up with Mobile 1. Ge

When it came to choosing my oil, I went to several sites where members tested their used oil which helped them determine the perfect oil for their car. If I were you, I would do the same. If buying an expensive oil that has to be shipped to you causes you to change it less regularly, go with what you'll change most regularly. I go 10k miles without issues (I'm at stage 2 with about 360 HP out a 2.5L engine.)

Get some sort of readout where you can measure engine / oil temperatures and look for yourself. I use a Cobb accessport, but they probably don’t make that for your car. Good luck!

LI Sound Grunt
06-20-2013, 05:52 PM
Oil is oil - buy what the Manufacturer recommends and change it every 6,000 or more. The difference in wear brand wise has never need really proven - it is minuscule at best over 500,000 miles. Consumer reports said they could not detect any significant difference between 6000 and 3000 oil changes.

I use the motorcraft 5-20 its cheap at walmart, and recommended for my wife's car. My boat (Mercruiser inboards230 ho v8's) uses 15 40 Motorcraft for Diesels cause it's closest to the 20 -40 mercruiser oil recommended which is hard to find and expensive.

I like oil in Black containers too. (Kendall, Texaco, etc) :rofl:

recycle the old stuff and...........Enjoy the ride show us pics..

dssmith
06-20-2013, 06:10 PM
Oil is oil - buy what the Manufacturer recommends and change it every 6,000 or more. The difference in wear brand wise has never need really proven - it is minuscule at best over 500,000 miles. Consumer reports said they could not detect any significant difference between 6000 and 3000 oil changes.

I use the motorcraft 5-20 its cheap at walmart, and recommended for my wife's car. My boat (Mercruiser inboards230 ho v8's) uses 15 40 Motorcraft for Diesels cause it's closest to the 20 -40 mercruiser oil recommended which is hard to find and expensive.

I like oil in Black containers too. (Kendall, Texaco, etc) :rofl:

recycle the old stuff and...........Enjoy the ride show us pics..

I'm with Grunt. I use whatever Walmart has that is least expensive Synthetic and change it at 10,000 mi. Same with the oil filters. I've been doing this for over 20 years in all my cars and have never had an engine failure of any kind. I use the same jug to return the old oil to the store/recycler.

waybomb
06-20-2013, 06:44 PM
I'm going to disagree with all of the above. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 2007 Mustang GT and I've changed the oil on it every 5000 miles, and mostly within 100 miles of that milestone. I've used the Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend that Ford recommends and the FL-820s filter. That car runs as good as it did when I purchased it with 3 miles on it. There's no way I would do or recommend anything else.



My driver Benz has 323,000 on the clock sometime this week. Mobil 1 5-30 since day one. Change it according to the FSS warning. Usually at about 18,000-20,000 miles. Still purrs and runs like new. I have no qualms about flooring it while getting on the highway.

Of course Ford recommends Motorcraft oil and frequent oil changes.

FloataBoat
06-20-2013, 07:07 PM
I think you may be correct on the royal purple not meeting some certification.

I got the 3.73 gear ratio, 6 speed manual and brembo brake package. I've wanted one for 30 years.

I had a 03 Mach 1 and then had a youngin, so my toy had to go. So now that the yougin is starting elementary school and no more day care, I splurged and got my 13'. There is no comparison between my old Mach 1 and this new 13'. The 13' blows it away in every category.;cool;

FloataBoat
06-20-2013, 07:09 PM
I pulled this from Bob is the Oil Guy forum:
The API classifies oils into five different groups.

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity. Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes. AMSOIL XL Motor Oils, Castrol Syntec and many others fall into this category.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Motor Oils and Mobil 1 primarily use group IV basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III.

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not fall into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. Redline uses an ester basestock.

*****End of Copy

I use redline 10w30 in my STI because it's a turbo application, I need the viscosity and the cooling properties. Your engine isn't as tuned/pushed to the limit. You can probably get by with Mobile 1 without any issues. I'd probably go with Amsoil. Royal Purple will run smoother, rev better, but will probably run hotter (it's not as viscos). Mobile 1 will almost never be better than AMSOIL, Redline or Royal Purple. They're all different, but there have been quite a few horror stories about tuned turbo applications blowing up with Mobile 1. Ge

When it came to choosing my oil, I went to several sites where members tested their used oil which helped them determine the perfect oil for their car. If I were you, I would do the same. If buying an expensive oil that has to be shipped to you causes you to change it less regularly, go with what you'll change most regularly. I go 10k miles without issues (I'm at stage 2 with about 360 HP out a 2.5L engine.)

Get some sort of readout where you can measure engine / oil temperatures and look for yourself. I use a Cobb accessport, but they probably don’t make that for your car. Good luck!

Great information. Thanks! :tht_rulez:

FloataBoat
06-20-2013, 07:13 PM
I've also been reading some articles where using a good synthetic oil will slightly increase hp and improve fuel economy. Royal Purple's site stated a 4.5% increase in fuel economy.......

04keywest1720
06-20-2013, 08:32 PM
In all of my recent Mustangs 2006 GT, 2010 GT & 2013 GT500, that all require 5w20, I run Mobil 1 5w20. The manufacturer has a spec (5w20) for a reason, and it is based upon their testing and engineering - don't second guess them based upon internet chatter or some mechanic.
13'gt500's don't call for 5w20. I hope you don't run that in yours. I have read enough about oil recs for it and all my other cars to make your head spin. Motorcraft shears quick but if changed on regular intervals will still be fine. This is totally my opinion but if you use any oil that is in the range of specs in weight for you vehicle you will be just fine. I personally use mobil 1 dyno oil in all my cars and have had no problems in the combined 450-500k combined miles. In my gt500 I'm going with either mobil1 5w50 full synthetic (the recommended weight) or 10w 40 amsoil full syn.

RussH
06-20-2013, 08:49 PM
My 2010 Camaro SS says Mobile One right on the oil cap and that's what I've been putting in it since new. I have 11K miles on it and I've had the oil changed 4 times. Mine takes 8.5 qts and as you know Mobile One ain't cheap but that's what GM recommends so that's what I am using.

Back-in-Black
06-20-2013, 09:28 PM
Mobil 1 in last 4 trucks. 10,000 mile changes on all of them.

1992 totaled at 250,000 miles - motor was still runing great - never a puff of smoke.

1998 Chevy - sold in front yard less than 12 hrs after I parked it there - had 275,000 miles and still ran great. Saw this truck one day in front of me in traffic ~5 years later.

1998 GMC - wife's truck. Gave it to my son back in 2010 and it eventually was totalled- had ~180,000 on it and still ran great.

2002 Chevy 2500 Duramax - still driving it. 280,000 miles now and 2 weeks ago I towed 11,000 lbs for a total of ~1600+ miles with it.

No, not hi perf cars but all them towed and towed a lot! Even the wife was pulling a 5th wheek camper with hers about 1600 miles/year. Never ever had a single oil related problem out of any of them and never ever saw a puff of oil smoke. Actually, never had to ever add so much as a drop of oil to any of them between changes.

I really like the high heat properties of the Mobil 1 in my turbo-diesel.

LI32
06-21-2013, 05:04 AM
13'gt500's don't call for 5w20. I hope you don't run that in yours.
You are correct it is 5w50. I haven't changed it yet - I usually do it 1x per year or at 3,000 miles - it would be a rare year that I put more than 3,000 miles on it in a year.

04keywest1720
06-21-2013, 06:27 PM
I'm actually about to do my 1st change as well. One reason why have read way too much info on oil for it, I added the 65mm dual blade throttle body, jlt intake and tune on mine last weekend, How are you liking yours so far?

FloataBoat
06-21-2013, 07:22 PM
I'm actually about to do my 1st change as well. One reason why have read way too much info on oil for it, I added the 65mm dual blade throttle body, jlt intake and tune on mine last weekend, How are you liking yours so far?

I can't get the grin off my face when I'm driving it. I love it.



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