Trucks & Trailers - Repack bearing or replace hubs?

I have a '05 tandem axle alum contintental trailer without brakes. Bought it new in mid 06. After every use, it is dunked in freshwater and greased. I use to local ramp during the year and have made 2-3 trips to the Keys, ~400mi roundtrip. Never had a problem with anything on trailer. Bearing are not making any noise and wheels have no extra play.

Due to age and before this years Keys trip, I want to do some preventative maintenance. What do you guys recommend? New hubs all together or just examine and repack the bearings?

Thanks,

If you don't know if a bearing is still good by looking at it just replace it. Don't get lazy like some and replace only the inner ring. Replace the whole set (the cup and the cone). Not only watch what brand you buy but also where it was made.

Most swear by Timken but most don't realize that you can find some made in eastern European countries (open the box and look at the country of origin on the bearing before you buy). Any Timken US bearing or Japanese manufacture are top of the line. Stay away from eastern Europe, India, China, Turkey, etc.

Pull them look for irregularities and if they look good repack and run them.

If you don't know if a bearing is still good by looking at it just replace it. Don't get lazy like some and replace only the inner ring. Replace the whole set (the cup and the cone). Not only watch what brand you buy but also where it was made.

Most swear by Timken but most don't realize that you can find some made in eastern European countries (open the box and look at the country of origin on the bearing before you buy). Any Timken US bearing or Japanese manufacture are top of the line. Stay away from eastern Europe, India, China, Turkey, etc.

Just read the Timken site..they market 2 grades of bearings..the good stuff and the Chinese/Russian stuff. I'll guarantee the budget hub/bearing replacement stuff is crappy imported junk.

Timken markets wheel bearing grease, btw. After reading about grease, seems like just about any of the new lithium complex greases are adequate IF the grease is clean and dry.

I bet you'll find most bearing failures are caused by either inadequate lubrication or crappy bearings..in the case of crappy bearings, NO grease is good enough to make them work.

Back to the original question..if it ain't broke don't fix it. Repack what ya got.

If you don't already have Super Lube / Posi Lube hubs, it may be more cost effective in the long run to go ahead and invest in them. These type hubs are much easier to maintain and you can purge and replace the grease as often as you like.

I did the swap last summer on the Magic Tilt single axle under the GW 180. I paid about $125 for two Galv-X Super Lubes delivered to my door, and the local auto repair shop charged me $50 to swap them out. With their jacks, tools and expertise the swap was done in about 30 minutes.

Just read the Timken site..they market 2 grades of bearings..the good stuff and the Chinese/Russian stuff. I'll guarantee the budget hub/bearing replacement stuff is crappy imported junk.

Timken markets wheel bearing grease, btw. After reading about grease, seems like just about any of the new lithium complex greases are adequate IF the grease is clean and dry.

I bet you'll find most bearing failures are caused by either inadequate lubrication or crappy bearings..in the case of crappy bearings, NO grease is good enough to make them work.

Back to the original question..if it ain't broke don't fix it. Repack what ya got.

You are correct Bill on the #1 reason bearings fail (lubrication or the lack of it). It amounts to 50% of bearing failures. Most manufacturers have their "economy" line of bearings. It's part of that world now.

Even low quality bearings will run for awhile. But when you have, say your $50K boat on a trailer going down the road, are you really comfortable knowing that you saved $40 on bearings by buying the el-cheapo's? I'd think not. It doesn't make sense, at least to me.

Lithium based grease is fine for what you need it for. Never, I mean NEVER mix different base greases (lithium, Polyurea, etc). they are not compatable and will result in failing the bearing, I don't care what brand you have running in your hub.

Timken does market grease. They don't make it obviously. They market it through distribution mostly.

Let me know anytime you have a bearing question. I'm happy to help.

I have tried to "re-pack" mine, guess I'm not too good at it. I opted to buy whole new hubs from the manufacturer. Already pre-packed. Pulled the other ones off, slid the new ones on......Done. Liked having new everything, alot quicker, etc. Good Luck.

Don't let the internerds make you crazy. Your trailer has maybe 1500 miles on it. You rinse and grease the hubs regularly. I wouldn't replace or repack anything. The odds of you screwing up the preload (the other large cause of hub failure) are way greater than a near new hub failing.

Don't let the internerds make you crazy. Your trailer has maybe 1500 miles on it. You rinse and grease the hubs regularly. I wouldn't replace or repack anything. The odds of you screwing up the preload (the other large cause of hub failure) are way greater than a near new hub failing.

What do you mean by preload?

What do you mean by preload?

I can't wait to see Jensen's answer being we're all internerds

Bearing preload is removing the internal clearance in the bearing by applying a thrust load to it. In other words we can push (by tightening the shaft nut) the bearing to such a point that it can only move in the race in one axis and cannot move axially in the other directions.

Most shops and people just tighten the bearing enough so the wheel has some drag when spinning, not exactly rocket science.

I would disassemble and check the bearings before the trip. Gives you peace of mind.

If it were me, I would simply inspect and repack, but I've done wheel bearings many times. Right before a big trip is NOT the time to learn to do this. Here is what I would do:
1. just do your normal maintenance (and maybe get somebody experienced to take a look). Make sure your hubs are not getting hot when towing.
2. Buy a complete hub assembly and take it with you in case something does go wrong.
3. When you come back, learn to repack your bearings--it's easy!!!
4. I suppose you could take an unused/unopened hub assembly back if you had the receipt, but I would probably keep it. Those are always good to have around.

Agreed on the hub assembly, I keep one with me on every trip. Do check your hub temps at every stop. Don't forget to carry all the necessary tools to do a replacement on the road(the jack for the tow vehicle may not work on the trailer). Bearings never seem to fail in a parking lot.

Safe travels.

I can't wait to see Jensen's answer being we're all internerds

LOL..me too. and you still have to set the sacred "preload" with a new hub, so what's the difference?

Hey do you think the Tiedown posilube hubs that come with the bearings greased and installed use the Timken high grade bearings???

Anyone who maintains a boat trailer should learn to set bearing preload but not before a long trip as noted. The way I do it is to snug the spindle nut to about 20 ft lbs or just a bit more than hand tight using a breaker bar on a big socket that fits the nut. Then back off the nut and just tightening finger tight with only the socket. Then insert the cotter pin or lock the tab washer. You do not want them too tight but there should not be more than the tiniest bit of play when rocking the tire in and out.

Tie down super lube hubs are great, I have not had to take em apart in 8 seasons, no water contamination. The only reason I have had the drums off was to replace the drum brake wheel cylinders (every 4seasons) .

Why do people have this guy changing spindles, getting new hubs, etc??

If you have superlube hubs or equivalent, keep em greased and that's it. I have never seen a hub fail with no advance warning, usually some play and/or excessive heat. Sounds like you take care of your stuff.

If bearing buddies, it may be a good idea to inspect/repack. Don't forget new oil seals.

The proper way to preload the bearings, especially when replacing with new bearings/races, is to sock it down pretty tight while spinning the wheel. then pack off until just loose (the nut) then tighten slightly more than finger tighten. You essentially want little to no play in the assembly when finished. the reason for socking it down good to begin with is to make sure everything is seated after a bearing change.

Have done plenty of front ends and trailers this way and have yet to have an issue.

LOL..me too. and you still have to set the sacred "preload" with a new hub, so what's the difference?
You missed my point: After <1500 miles of use w/ routine maintenance, I'm not buying new hubs either.

All good info and appreciate the input. The grease in each wheel is not discolored at all and I added some more and grease that came out was fine, no extra play in wheels. I purchased a new galvanized hub all pre-packed and have all the tools including a large file in case spindle is damaged. I carry a floor jack under my backseat all the time as a matter of habit.

Also to make repacking easier us this tool you can purchase from your local auto parts store Lisle #34550 it is a re packer. Can take on the road with you. I am a mechanic Timken or fag bearings are very good. American, Japanese or German are good bearing makers. Make sure you change the race with the bearing you will need a race kit. This is easy work. To know if the bearings are going bad. Jack up the trailer safely one side at a time and spin the wheels as fast as you can and listen for any kind of noise and feel the axle while spinning the wheel and you can feel any ruffness. If all feels smooth and wheel is spinning straight you are good to go. :)

Didn't replace anything, made sure everything was greased good, spinning without noise and tight before leaving and everything was fine on the 210 mile trip down. I shot some more in before leaving and thankfully had an uneventful ride home.

If your worried about your bearings, check the wear on the spindle. You will have to pull the whole hub off. That would be the best way. And you can change the grease out while your there. 6 years old, probably due for an examination anyways.

I have a '05 tandem axle alum contintental trailer without brakes. Bought it new in mid 06. After every use, it is dunked in freshwater and greased. I use to local ramp during the year and have made 2-3 trips to the Keys, ~400mi roundtrip. Never had a problem with anything on trailer. Bearing are not making any noise and wheels have no extra play.

Due to age and before this years Keys trip, I want to do some preventative maintenance. What do you guys recommend? New hubs all together or just examine and repack the bearings?

Thanks,
These's a little tool you can buy especially if your going to trailer a long way that's a life saver and about the most important tool you can have pulling a trailer other than a tire gauge. ...Laser Infrared Thermometer.. About 50 dollars and will tell you more about whats going on inside your hubs then anything you can guess.
Just repacked the bearings in the race trailer. Had one start getting hot I caught with the thermometer I just told you about, and replaced that one. Repacked the rest and the old ones I just repacked are running about 135 on the temp after pulling 75 miles yesterday. The new one is running about 125 but hey, its new. Before repacking temps were up in the 165 to 170 range, the bad one was getting up there to 190. To high for my liking.
If you buy the thermometer just repack and like always , keep a check on your temps while on your trip. Your going to walk around and kick a tire or do a walkaround check anyway when you stop.. Shoot the hubs, and check the temps while your walking. Its that simple... :thumbsup:

Mine run 108 to 110 when they are going well. I would be worried about 125 and up. I would especially watch that the grease doesn't start to get too thin. Before I had the infrared I used the 3 second rule as my guideline. That means if cannot hold your hand on the hub for 3 seconds you have a problem. This applies to the tires as well.