Trucks & Trailers - Moving winch stand post forward?

I have a 25' boat on a 23' trailer.
For the transom to be on the bunks I had to remove the winch seat assembly.
Any way can the winch stand post be moved forward?
When I had the boat hanging over the bunks, the trailer was tail happy.

Can you replace your current bunkboards to longer ones so you can put your winch back in place?? What is your current tounge weight? Should be at least 10% of total load....
You might need a longer trailer bro as you have no more forwad adjustment which I can see from Ur pics unless you get a custom stand fabricated...FWIW Jo

I could replace the bunk boards; trying not to replace the trailer, unless I have to!
This trailer wasn't setup for my boat, but I need it while I'm rebuilding the boat.
Didn't handle as well when the boat was further back, but it was only a short tow.
Just seeing if there is something/cheap in the meantime.

If the trailer is only for the rebuild....do what I did and put stands under the stern and ease it back on the trailer.
If it will eventually have to live on the trailer then you will have to make some modifications or get a bigger/longer trailer.....IMO, Jo
Unless someone else on here has a better idea....and I'm sure you will hear from them soon......

Assuming you are within the weight capacity of the trailer, replace the bunks. The additional length will support the transom. If you still need more tongue weight, you will have to slide the axles back.

There U go. Simple Geometry. I knew someone else would come up with Ur answer. I should have thought of that...good job Parthery!:thumbsup:

Longer bunks and add weight to the front of the trailer in front of the winch stand to get the added tongue weight and relieve the sway issues..
Superfishal

Can you replace your current bunkboards to longer ones so you can put your winch back in place?? What is your current tounge weight? Should be at least 10% of total load....
You might need a longer trailer bro as you have no more forwad adjustment which I can see from Ur pics unless you get a custom stand fabricated...FWIW Jo

Boat trailer tongue weight is 5% to 7%, NOT AT LEAST 10%, the reason why is the boat is ALWAYS LOADED THE SAME . It's NOT like a utility trailer where the load can vary on the trailer.

PLEASE research your Info. before you post.

Your gas mileage may vary.:trout:
And to the OP, if your going to tow with the set up in the above pics, PLEASE rig the bow line to where the SHARP edge is not cutting into your line.

Could you replace the tongue box section with a longer one and move the winch post to the other side and move the boat up to the winch, this way the bunks will be under the transom.

excuse the bad editing :o

Easy fix, if the post assembly is aluminum, weld a 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate under the existing base plate, large enough to bolt to trailer rails forward, and bolted to center rail aft. Move the whole unit as far forward as needed. If the post assembly is steel use a steel plate.

If bracing is required run the brace from the post angled down to the center rail aft.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/rayteagarden/RayCharicture.jpg

Easy fix, if the post assembly is aluminum, weld a 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate under the existing base plate, large enough to bolt to trailer rails forward, and bolted to center rail aft. Move the whole unit as far forward as needed. If the post assembly is steel use a steel plate.

If bracing is required run the brace from the post angled down to the center rail aft.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/rayteagarden/RayCharicture.jpg

it's galvanized. Never ever saw a winch post aluminum. Not saying there aren't

it's galvanized. Never ever saw a winch post aluminum. Not saying there aren't

Yep you are right, my first look said Aluminum, my second look says Galvanized steel.:banghead:

So, corrected I suggest a 1/4 inch thick steel galvanized or painted steel plate be welded under the existing winch post bottom plate then bolted to the trailer frame.

Need not be galvanized if used only in fresh water, a thick coat of paint will suffice in fresh water, in salt water, if not submerged, paint will do, however galvanization would be much longer lasting (and much more expensive than painting).

Dissimilar metals should not be a problem if not submerged.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/rayteagarden/RayCharicture.jpg

I had a problem with my last boat on the trailer fitting into the garage by being 6 inches or so too long.

A new winch post was fabricated by the shop I bought the trailer from. That trailer was rock solid behind the truck at every speed. The trailer was purchaced from Steve at East Coast Trailers. I know he's gone now but he was a class act.

Just to be sure.....are you exceeding the length/weight of the trailer?

I have a 25' CC, twin OB on a trailer that can take a 28' boat. Not sure I'd want it on a smaller trailer(?)

My point being you may move the stanchion and still have the issue you speak of., because no matter how much you move/adjust things, there's just too much boat to compensate for.....

P.S.- if you move ahead, be careful welding galvanized steel.....it gives off nasty smoke.....