Shipyard Isl. Marine Engine Parts - Rigging Parts
THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
11-30-2011, 04:45 AM
Hi Andy, getting a list together and will order in a couple of weeks. Might need to call and discuss, but here goes:
Twin 2006 Yamaha 200 HPDI Motors:
1. Rigging Tubes (Have to measure length)
2. Grommet from Motors to Tubes. Mine are ripped open at this time, so must replace them. Seems there are a couple of different types for this motor?
3. Yamaha Shop Manual
4. 13.5 ISOLATOR LEAD W/ FUSE we discussed in a different post. Still not clear on where to connect this. http://www.simyamaha.com/v/vspfiles/templates/56/images/clear1x1.gifIs this pic the right one to show where it connects?
The rigging hose is on this page. Ordered by the foot. We use the blue gray, but some prefer the black. http://www.simyamaha.com/category_s/1813.htm
The boat end rigging grommet is on that page. This is the specific engine grommet for that HPDI http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Rigging_Grommet_p/mar-gromm-et-01.htm
The battery charge isolator lead is also on that page. Service manual is here http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Service_Manual_p/sm150over.htm
This is what the connector looks like on your engine . Obviously in the pic, its not being used. Remove the plug off the end of it, and plug the aux lead into it. http://www.thehulltruth.com/members/sim-albums-yamaha-picture2529-a.jpg
11-30-2011, 08:47 AM
Excellent! All looks too easy now! Thanks Andy.
Couple of more things adding to my list.
Water Pump Impeller kit. I see several, like Deluxe, Complete, etc.
The motors have just over 200 hours now. Far as I know, the impellors have never been changed.
Have changed on OMC V4 outboard before, so think this will not be too hard. Suggestion on which kit to use?
Lower Unit Lube. Not sure what viscosity to use. I would like to use Synthetic, but not sure if that is recommended or not?
If the engine is currently pumping water, then get the deluxe kit with the extra parts. If the engine has overheated or if you want to just replace the nylon impeller housing, get the complete kit.
Use the regular Yamaha gear lube. If you want to use a synthetic, Yamaha has one for the Offshore 4.2ltr and V8 gearcases. Yamaha has not tested it with the other model engines, but I have customers that use it with no problems.
12-01-2011, 08:29 AM
Thanks Andy, do you know the specifications of the lower unit gear lube? Viscosity? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
12-04-2011, 05:15 PM
Hi Andy, did some checking this w/e. Found the Red accessory charging wire! Definately was buried. The removable cap has a yellow button on the end. All along I thought this was some type of reset button. ;cool;
Now, on the Rigging Grommet, I think mine might be different than the one suggested. Adding a pic and the model information to make sure I get the right one. This one seems to have 3 rubber tips, maybe help lock it into place? Also it seems that the new Grommets allow me to screw in the rigging hose instead of it being on the outside and clamping over the grommet. Check my pic as you will see it is on the outside and with a screw clamp. I like the new one's better, but wonder if the Rigging tube is smaller than the one I have......
The grommet I sent you a link to will replace that rubber one you have. It is formed to sit in the bottom cowling just like the one you have with the hold down bracket being used in the same way. The rigging hose will thread into the grommet I linked too, and will not come out.
I never use those original rubber ones unless I have too.
01-12-2012, 07:35 AM
Andy, anyone...question regarding the Yamaha fuel line removal. When I get ready to install the new rigging tube and disconnect all the wires, cables, etc. from the motors, I noticed the gray fuel line is like the type that I assume is heated up so it will stretch over the connection as it is just zip tied at the motor end under the cowling.
What is the best way to disconnect this line without damage? If I have to heat it up, what is the safe method being this is a gas hose?
Do I have to cut it off, then heat the new end in hot water to reinstall? Looking for the trick here on this one before I get myself in trouble.
Never heat up a fuel hose to remove it. If you can't twist it off, or push it down with pliers, you will need to carefully cut it with a razor balde or sharp knife. Just down to the point where it meets the fitting.
That Yamaha hose is pretty flexible, and I have never had to use heat to install it.
01-12-2012, 06:21 PM
Thanks Andy, of course any heat would be with no sparks. Just warm it up, but kinda hard to do unless it is warm water. This time of year, it might be hard to get off, but will check it out. Good to know that fuel line is flexible. Fingers crossed and thanks for the intel!
01-15-2012, 05:20 PM
Hi Andy, thanks for the tips! Your absolutely right! The Yamaha fuel line is very nice and soft/flexible. Came off no issue. Was able to get the one rigging tube off successfully. All in all, not near as hard as I would have thought.
The new rigging tube is much larger than the one I had, but that is good as I needed the room to run the new Aux. Isolator wire. Drilling the larger hole in the transom was fun, but went well.
Now for the question:
The original grommet had what I might try to describe as fillers or a molded routing for the cables/hoses to run through, yet help I assume keep the lines from rubbing with each other. The new grommet/rigging parts do not have anything like this. When you do the rigging, is it ok to leave this much room inside the rigging at the grommet area?
Also, when I removed my original rigging, a lot of water came out of the rigging hose as it was laying in the lower curve of the tube. Maybe a good idea to drill a small hole in the bottom of new hose to let it drain?
Also, do you recommend using silicone in the grommets when I screw in the new rigging tube into the grommets?
Glad it went well.
This grommet is more water tight then the old one, as far as the rigging hose is concerned. It won't hurt to drill a couple holes in the lowest portion, in case any water does get in there. Not sure its needed though with this new style.
Imagine if you didn't have a solid rigging hose with the old style rubber grommet? Many boats are rigging this way with exposed rigging components. The reason for those special areas in that old grommet is because they will make a good water tight seal and keep water from entering the bottom cowling area.
01-16-2012, 08:50 AM
Got it, so the rubber filler was more for prevention of water to get in, but since the rigging tube is doing this protection, not needed.
Thanks again! Going to look great when done!