Trucks & Trailers - Reliable Oil Bath and Trip Home

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View Full Version : Reliable Oil Bath and Trip Home


tm7554
03-22-2011, 06:32 PM
So I traveled home ~800 miles with a new boat and trailer. 2 of the 4 hubs are leaking oil. Driver side oil level on the glass shows ~ 3/4 full. Passenger side oil level is 1/2 full and I have 1/8" thick slick of muddy grease on the inside of these wheels. Not very confidence inspiring. Should I convert back to grease now? Brand on the hub is reliable.


Eyehooker
03-22-2011, 06:51 PM
just purchase a boat and the trailer has the same setup -- what is the correct oil level? Planning on taking N in May 1 K miles---

tm7554
03-23-2011, 02:30 AM
I believe the correct level is 3/4 full in the sight glass. That is what i see on the hubs that are not leaking. The manual only discussed greased hubs. Going to call the manufacturer this morning.


lemaymiami
03-23-2011, 05:26 AM
I run the Reliable system as well (and have about 120,000 on this trailer, 20k a year for almost six years now)... My hubs are on a single axle EZ Loader. The setup I'm running is supposed to have the oil level (50wt) right up to the top of the oval logo on the surface of the clear lexan caps. Sounds to me like whoever set your trailer up put too much oil in the hubs, blowing out the inner seal.... or some other screw up. The hubs I'm running are supposed to be about 2/3 full, allowing room for expansion as they heat up when you're on the road. That system doesn't have any other pressure relief. If the hubs are overfilled with oil you'll get the exact results you're seeing. You'll be able to buy heavy duty degreaser from your local auto parts store. Spray down all areas with excess oil, let it sit for 10-15 minutes then rinse off with a hard hose stream. If you have lots of oil you may have to do it several times to clean up the mess. Don't forget to hit any tire surfaces that got oiled since oil will damage your tires.... The next item will be new inner seals on any hub that's leaked and you'll be back in business. If it's a brand new trailer I'd expect your dealer to step up.... Hope this helps.

By the way, I'm still running the original bearings on mine and have nothing but good things to say about the system down here in paradise.

MacCTD
03-23-2011, 05:56 AM
I run the Reliable system as well (and have about 120,000 on this trailer, 20k a year for almost six years now)... My hubs are on a single axle EZ Loader. The setup I'm running is supposed to have the oil level (50wt) right up to the top of the oval logo on the surface of the clear lexan caps. Sounds to me like whoever set your trailer up put too much oil in the hubs, blowing out the inner seal.... or some other screw up. The hubs I'm running are supposed to be about 2/3 full, allowing room for expansion as they heat up when you're on the road. That system doesn't have any other pressure relief. If the hubs are overfilled with oil you'll get the exact results you're seeing. You'll be able to buy heavy duty degreaser from your local auto parts store. Spray down all areas with excess oil, let it sit for 10-15 minutes then rinse off with a hard hose stream. If you have lots of oil you may have to do it several times to clean up the mess. Don't forget to hit any tire surfaces that got oiled since oil will damage your tires.... The next item will be new inner seals on any hub that's leaked and you'll be back in business. If it's a brand new trailer I'd expect your dealer to step up.... Hope this helps.

By the way, I'm still running the original bearings on mine and have nothing but good things to say about the system down here in paradise.


Wow, I am thinking of converting my current hubs to oil bath but cannot find Reliable on the internet, do you know if they use another name for the brand?
What type of boating do you do that causes you to put so many miles on your trailer?

lemaymiami
03-23-2011, 09:00 AM
I'm a typical guide down in south Florida and tow a 17' skiff to one ramp or another year 'round. Most of us are gypsies working right off of our trailers as opposed to working out of a marina somewhere. As a result my usual day includes a round trip tow of just under 200 miles every day I'm on the water since I'm primarily fishing out of Flamingo or Everlades City. As much as I love what I do, I like living in suburbia (just west of Ft. Lauderdale) as opposed places that would be much closer to the various ramps (but might include the occasional sound of automatic weapons....). I long ago moved out of Dade county (the Miami area) in search of quieter neighborhoods...

At any rate, I've never seen Reliable hubs on other trailers so they may be some kind of proprietary brand for EZ Loader. Give them a call and they may be able to point you in the right direction. There's some additional stuff about these hubs that should be in archives on this site if anyone's interested (just look up threads on oil bath hubs - a year or two back I listed the various tools and things that make working on them easier...).

ndb8fxe
04-02-2011, 02:27 PM
Reliable (or whatever the name is) came out with a new cap that is metal instead of plastic. They still have have a translucent sight gauge, but the body of the cap is now metal. If you have the plastic caps, I'd call them and get replacement hubs. Mine were great for four years and two developes a leak. I replaced all four caps and now am struggling with a leak on one. The weird thing is that I'm getting water in, but don't have anything leaking out.

ndb8fxe
04-04-2011, 09:19 AM
So I traveled home ~800 miles with a new boat and trailer. 2 of the 4 hubs are leaking oil. Driver side oil level on the glass shows ~ 3/4 full. Passenger side oil level is 1/2 full and I have 1/8" thick slick of muddy grease on the inside of these wheels. Not very confidence inspiring. Should I convert back to grease now? Brand on the hub is reliable.

Worked on my trailer some today so it brought me back to this thread. I can't imagine why you would have "muddy grease" on the wheels. All that would leak would be dirty oil. Were the wheels ever on a trailer that used normal grease?

Yours are leaking and it must be from the inner. It is fairly easy to replace them. I got parts from EZ loader in Port St. Lucie FL. Give them a call and I'm sure they can help you.

Eyehooker
04-11-2011, 08:38 PM
what the socket size to remove the hub

NoFearEyes
04-11-2011, 10:18 PM
Check out this post on Mastercraft site--looks like there is a free upgrade available--

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=26796

Here's corporate link--not much info but a start

http://www.reliablepmw.com/body.cfm?lvl1=produc&lvl2=rvmari

Eyehooker
05-11-2011, 11:24 AM
Big pair of Channel Locks worked great after spraying with blaster-- I marked the location before removal Refilled with 90 weight syn

lemaymiami
05-11-2011, 12:29 PM
IF you check your manual you might find they recommend 50wt oil..... The heavier stuff might work but I've had such great results following factory specs that I'd be reluctant to go with anything else. I really am running the original bearings and seals on my EZ Loader and it's well over 120,000 at this point, and almost six years old.

beenie
05-12-2011, 07:42 AM
As an aside for those using oil bath hubs, I recommend keeping a can or two(small) of STP on board. If your seals go out while out on the road, put the STP in and get back on the road. I did this on a semi trailer with 40k load on it. It went 225 miles to the next shop with no overheat at all. That STP is great stuff for bearings in a pinch.
Mike

dward51
05-12-2011, 03:02 PM
Info on the Reliable oil filled hubs is on page 5 of this manual (from the factory website)

http://www.reliablepmw.com/downloads/running_gear_manual.pdf

Eyehooker
05-13-2011, 09:23 AM
Thanks for info on manual and oil weight

lemaymiami
05-13-2011, 12:55 PM
Was surprised to learn that according to the manual posted the oil weight is now set at 90.... my manual only specifies 50 wt (I do have a fairly lightweight single axle trailer which might account for the difference).

Nothing like finding out your info is out of date/possibly wrong... thanks for the info dward.

Eyehooker
05-13-2011, 07:02 PM
I purchased trailer w/o manual -- I used a meat injector to fill the hubs what is proper method?

lemaymiami
05-14-2011, 04:56 PM
I like old honey (or catsup) bottles or transmission additive squeeze bottles (after each are thoroughly cleaned). That small threaded oil port just isn't suited for anything else. The meat injector is probably a good idea as well. Whatever you do try not to overfill those hubs - bad things will happen...

Eyehooker
05-15-2011, 04:47 PM
As an aside for those using oil bath hubs, I recommend keeping a can or two(small) of STP on board. If your seals go out while out on the road, put the STP in and get back on the road. I did this on a semi trailer with 40k load on it. It went 225 miles to the next shop with no overheat at all. That STP is great stuff for bearings in a pinch.
Mike Great Advise when I saw post remenbered back in Mill Days use STP in gear boxes and it worked great!!! Another good tip from THT:)

sailcal
07-31-2012, 11:53 AM
I just towed a single axle trailer from Ohio to Alaska (5000+ miles) with the eliable oil bath hubs. My question is, do you need to change the oil in the hubs, it's looking pretty thin? Can tou drain the oil through the hole in the hub? Also, when can I purchase the plastic hub caps should I fracture one of the ones installed?

sailcal

lemaymiami
07-31-2012, 02:07 PM
Howdy Sail.... you can change the oil periodically but I've gone well over 20,000 without changing the oil (and I'm still using original bearings at 120,000+ miles).

To change the oil you'll need some particular tools, the first is a strap wrench to remove the cap (any other wrench may chew up the cap...),then you'll need a hex key for the oil fill hole, lastly a squeeze bottle of some kind (cleaned up so you're not adding any contaminants) to load your oil in for filling the hubs after you've drained the oil and re-mounted the cap. Be careful not to tighten those caps too much or you might crack one (ask me how I know...). By the way if you want spare caps just hook up with the nearest EZ Loader dealer (or go to them direct on the 'net).

Here's my routine... Remove the cap with a plastic cup to catch the old oil, check for bearing play and tighten gently if needed, replace clear cap, fill oil through fill port - but only to halfway.... Let things settle a bit and you'll note that you're actually at the 2/3 level and that's exactly where it should be then replace the oil hex screw. If you fill the hubs too full you'll end up with leaks (either through the inside seal or where the oil cap threads into place). That's all there is to it ( but I just wouldn't be comfortable on the road without spare bearings, a complete spare hub with bearings mounted, and the necessary tools and oil if you have a hub related breakdown.)

Hope this helps, call me any time if you have questions - Alaska is a long way from Florida but boat trailers are always a pain....

Thalasso
07-31-2012, 04:41 PM
You guys do realize this thread is a year old??

lemaymiami
08-01-2012, 03:32 AM
If you'll look you'll notice that the question I just answered was posted yesterday....

Thalasso
08-01-2012, 06:05 AM
If you'll look you'll notice that the question I just answered was posted yesterday....

Yep your right but on a thread that started on 3/22/2011

kone
08-04-2012, 04:07 AM
Yep your right but on a thread that started on 3/22/2011

Proof that sailcal used the search before creating another thread? ;?:grin:

(and he got his question answered :thumbsup:)



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