Trucks & Trailers - Anybody ever reinforce a rusted trailer axle??

THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.

03-04-2011, 05:03 PM

03-04-2011, 08:09 PM
Welding on Galvanized metal can be dangerous due to the fumes put out by the zinc as it is heated. Do a search and look this up first.

03-04-2011, 08:25 PM

03-04-2011, 08:39 PM
Honestly, I wouldn't do it. And those axles can take alot of rust before they are compromised, I cut my old one in half after I had taken it off, 7 years of service and HEAVILY rusted, large flakes of rust were comming off, etc. The axle was still 1/4'' thick clean metal when cut in half.

03-04-2011, 08:40 PM

03-05-2011, 03:41 AM
Replace 'em... Don't be "that" guy who half-asses their stuff to save a buck and ends up sitting on middle of the road backing up traffic for miles (or the pieces that break off, hit somebody else) - Just sayin'.

03-05-2011, 03:57 AM
replace the axel . Less work than welding . Just picture all the boats on trailers ditched on the side of the road ? Don't be that guy . Remember its chaeper to pay ! ? No one screws you like yourself ? !;?

03-05-2011, 05:29 AM

03-05-2011, 06:03 AM
I got mine replaced for a little under $200.00 A good trailer shop will cut the spindles off and weld them on the new tube. In my experience when you see the rust on the outside the tube is shot. Mine always broke at the spring, never in the middle. Good luck. Oh yea, I've been the guy on the side of the road and it's not so bad.

03-05-2011, 08:27 AM
Ummmm, $400 per axle $800 total.....

I think I will grind and paint.


Yeah, I suppose paying $800 (which is a complete rip off by the way) to ensure the safety of boat it's supporting as well as the vehicle towing it is a bit steep.

By the way, how much was your boat??

And where do you live, would like to ensure I'm no where near you when you're running down the road.

I too have been that guy on the side of the road (several times as a matter of fact) and fixing a hub or having to support one side off the road (without a tire) is a helluva lot different than having the entire Axle fail/break in the middle... Learned the hard way that you can't fix stupid and that boating and saving money don't mix.

To each his own..

Edit - oh yeah, you remove that zinc coating and you're really opening the door for rust!

03-05-2011, 09:52 AM

03-05-2011, 11:17 AM
You can add metal if you want. Welding on it will not weaken the metal. You will want to make the welds were you know there is full thickness metal.
Not where the metal is flaking off on the inside.
Just grind away the galvanizing for and inch on the centerline of where the weld will be.
Just make sure there is enough mother metal left to bother doing all of the work.
What you see on the outside might be minor compared to the inside.
Smack it with a hammer and try to guess how badly it might be on the inside due to super flaky rust.
And the welded area will want to rust really bad when your done, so you will want to protect that with paint, ect.

03-05-2011, 11:22 AM
Champion Trailers in Slidell, La will make a nice axle to your specs with spindle lube hubs for a decent price, but still going to be in the range of 350 or so per axle...I had them make me one for my old Load Rite about 7 years ago and it's held up well, love the spindle lube hubs...I would for sure have them build me another if I needed one for a different trailer. They'll make it straight, drop, on top of springs, under springs, whatever you need....

Is the rust just flaking on the surface, or are big chunks coming off? Have you tried sticking an awl into it to see how far the rust goes? if it was just on the surface, I might try cleaning it up and spraying with cold galvanizing spray...but if big chunks, I don't think I"d take a chance....the idea of having your spindles welded onto a new tube is interesting, I'd price out that option too....

03-05-2011, 12:38 PM
Save the lecture for someone who cares. My travel distance is 300 yards to my private ramp.

Since axles are so cheap why dont you send me a check in the mail?

I didnt get to be where I am today by being loose with money.

If your only suggestion is "buy new axles" you have said your piece, now move on.

LECTURE, Sir you have no idea what you are doing OR your just trying to get a rise out of people here and if it's the latter, most of us don't think your very funny .
SAFETY is nothing to ignore, My Dads buddy was KILLED test riding his bike to the end of the DRIVEWAY AND BACK he didn't need his helmet because he wasn't going on the street.
How much do you think the hole in your hull will cost to repair ? It amazes us that some will spend a buttload of money on a boat , a buttload of money on a truck and ungodly amounts of money on tackle but will squeak when they have to spend money on a legit repair.

As far as welding the axle , if you don't know how to weld and what filler metal to use [ and taking a High School welding class don't count] you need to have it done by a Pro.

Welcome to the world of Salt Water and Boating.

03-05-2011, 02:03 PM

03-05-2011, 02:21 PM
How about sistering some other stock metal to the axles and attaching them with U bolts?

ps. I donīt fish with a life jacket or kill switch tether.

03-05-2011, 02:44 PM
Chances are that the axles have rusted from the inside out, making it impossible to assuming that to be the case, let's move on to Plan B.

As gnel suggested, you can get some angle iron to cover the axles and weld angle to angle. It doesn't have to be pretty, but you can make a lot of learning mistakes spot welding the solid iron angles. Cheap, easy and...well, that was the intent, right?

03-05-2011, 07:39 PM
If you had mentioned it was only 300 yards to the ramp from the get go your responses would have been more to your liking. I recant my recommendation, leave it alone and fix it when it breaks.

By the way - you're welcome, A-Hole.

03-05-2011, 11:08 PM
I don't recant Sh!t , Buddy if your so phoucing smart what the heck did you ask here for ?
I gave you a Professional answer and you spit in my face ,you have only had every one in this thread tell you to replace them, I hope your Sh!t breaks, A-Hole.

03-05-2011, 11:22 PM
Chris, now I know why I don't come here much any more .

Anything can be "Fixed" but at what point does one go new ?

And to the above A-Hole , I was killed doing 5 MPH [ March 17th 1980 ] and was lucky enough to be brought back to put up with A-Holes like you . I Have now given you two death experiences at slow speeds to show you that Sh!t happens BUT NOOOOOO you are one of those people that will do what you do until bad sh!t happens then don't know why it did and blame others.
I'm outta here....

03-06-2011, 04:01 AM
Yep, grind and paint, I would remove the axles to do it too, will make it much faster and easier, removal isn't difficult. At that point you will be able to tell if the axle is shot or not.

03-06-2011, 07:36 AM
I can see an axle costing $400.00 if it bent or contoured to lower the boat on the frame. But if not you might want to shop around. I sell a 3500lb axle with hubs for $119.95 plus a u-bolt kit for $10.95. If your frame is not standard width you can have the axles sleeved and lengthened or shorten for about $40.00 a piece.

As far as only 300 yds. to the ramp, how about trips to have the boat serviced or maybe you might need go to the gas station to fill up.;?

03-06-2011, 11:46 AM
HTV - That arrogant ass doesn't care what you have to say... Just sayin'

03-06-2011, 01:33 PM

03-06-2011, 04:56 PM
Wow what a troll you are!

What is your problem?

If you wanna trash me start another thread but stop annoying everyone on this one.


(Troll, that's a good one.. You learn that on the Interwebs? :rofl:)

03-06-2011, 05:24 PM
Tunny, you have some hear up in arms from the way you asked the question, see you say you have a welder, but it proves to a real welder that you don't no what you are doing otherwise you wouldn't have to ask the question.

Now I wonder why you aren't going down and buying a couple thick wall pieces of pipe and welding your spindles on that, it would be less welding and you would have new axles.

What you should do is take those couple pieces of heavy wall pipe (that you buy) and your spindles (cut off your old axles) down to a local welding shop, for probably $50-$100 they will weld it up right for you.

PS... Any area welded correctly will be stronger then area's around it;?

I also highly doubt the welding machine you have is capable of full penetration welds, so your repair would only be sacrificial, not structural, which is what is needed.

Good luck with the project, I would think about pm-ing HTV if that could work.

03-06-2011, 05:43 PM

03-06-2011, 06:41 PM
Good to here it's not much of a project as there isn't much that area is doing as opposed to where the leafs are.

Food for thought, about the best that welder could handle is sheet metal;)

03-10-2011, 08:31 PM
If you weld it, it will probably warp and thus the tires will not run true and wear will be greater if you ever have to use it on the highway. Depending on the amount of warp it develops will determine the tire life. However, for what you're doing (300 feet of towing) I'd leave it alone or do what you're doing....clean it and paint it.

03-10-2011, 09:38 PM
Thanks Blackfin. I have a 135 AMP MIG -it will do up to 3/16".

I did some more grinding on it today and there seems to be more "meat" than I orginally thought. I will probably just grind it a paint it. The rust always looks worse than it is. Plus with it being in the middle, the moment is maximum and the shear is minimum so I am not terribly worried. The bottom is worse than the top (in tension).

Sounds like you are on the right track. Knock the rusty flakes off and grab a caliper to compare the minimum and maximum thickness. If no significant difference then paint. A 15mph axle breach (or 45mph for that matter if you run the rig down the street to the gas station) is more than likely going to buckle and stay in one piece, not separate into flying shrapnel. BTW, I'm not sure of your rigs weight (single axle?) but that 15mph trip is going to require an F350 or better. Also, you have obviously demonstrated how dumb you are. Make sure the boat is secured properly with redundant straps/chains, keep enough life jackets on board for everyone, make sure you have enough fuel for the days outing, and don't forget the plug before launching.:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q :Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q:Q

tunny- these :Q aren't for you.

the entertainment value here goes up every winter:thumbsup:

03-11-2011, 05:33 AM
Dont patronize me. My max towing speed is 15 MPH!!!! OK! Get it!

No one is going to die. So it CAN be welded. Thats what I thought.

Its like pullin teeth here.

I dont attach the kill switch to my wrist either!!:o

Wow is THT turning into the nanny state?:banghead::banghead:

People are just trying to give you good advice. I happen to agree with them, you should replace the axles.

If you don't want advice, or are not able to accept suggestions that you don't agree with, DON'T POST! :banghead:

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0