Boat Shows and Photos - Miami Boat Show - Guess The Manufacture - 2

Here is another one. Anyone know the manufacture? The bildge looks good to me.

SeaVee

SeaVee

That was quick!!

The rigging is neat and clean, but the through hulls lack the ABYC required flanges on them. Each through hull should have a flange with at least three screws to support it, instead of just a nut. It is especially critical when the fittings are horizontal and can be stepped on.

IMO SeaVee makes the nicest bilge

Kerno, SeaVee are NMMA certified and according to the NMMA website

Manufacturers of NMMA Certified boats benefit from:

Assurance their boats meet the industry standards for the United States (ABYC Standards)

Well, if the through-hull threads are straight and the ball valve's are tapered, then it doesn't meet the standard (H-27.6.1.2). I can't tell by looking but that's a common mistake. I don't know if ABYC requires a flange, but it is the preferred method. Here is a little "primer" on seacocks

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer

From my understanding NMMA sends representative to SeaVee to do boat certifications. I know of 1 new change to get the boat NMMA certified and that is you need a grab handle in the seat in front of the console. If you were at the Miami Boat show you would have noticed that there were two new boats the 32 and 34 and they both had the handles.

Don't know nuthin' 'bout no grab handles. I was just addressing the through-hulls.

TG, I know you were addressing the through hulls and my point is that these boats get inspected by representatives fron NMMA and I am sure they have looked at the through-hulls. I do know that if you order a sea chest the through hull is much bigger and they do have a flange. The reason I know about the handles is because I am looking into ordering a 34 and inquired about not putting the handles and I was told NO, sorry but for the boat to be NMMA certified they need to put them on.

Ok. As I wrote, I don't believe the flange is required. Kerno may disagree. But you should make sure the threads match. There just seems to be alot of space between the valve and the locking nut. It makes me think the flanged through-hull (the shiney part) is NPS, or straight thread. The Groco valves, I believe, are NPT...or tapered. This is a no-no. Now, the shiney (stainless steel?) through-hull might have a "combination thread," and that would be ok. But I can't tell from the picture. Here is a link from Groco. http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec4/PDF/IBV-FBV-TB.pdf They clearly do not recommend their valves be used in the way Sea Vee uses them. And as I wrote above, ABYC says: 27.6.1.2 “Threads used in seacock installations shall be compatible (e.g., NPT to NPT, NPS to NPS). Will they fall apart? Probably not. But it's not the preferred method. I have no idea who or what inspects SeaVee boats. I'd still like to have one!

First off, let me say that I like SeaVees and think their rigging is well above average. I don't feel there is much of an issue with the valves that are perpendicular to the waterline, but the ones laying flat do present a potential problem. Here's the reason the flanges are either preferred or required. As you know, the shank of the mushroom fitting is threaded almost down to the head to allow for different hull thicknesses. In order to get adequate flow without having to drill too big a hole, the wall thickness of the fittings are typically about 3/16". When you cut "V" shaped threads into a tube, you weaken it to where the threads are usually the fracture point.

When a fitting is installed with just a nut, the threads can be under a fair amount of tension. If there is more load added to the threads, such as a person stepping on the fitting or valve, the threaded portion can break. If it does break with only a nut retaining it, the seacock will separate from the hull and water will pour in. ABYC specs call for the fittings to withstand a side load of 500 pounds at the seacock. If there is a flange attaching the seacock the hull, the mounting is much stronger.

So, you have to decide for yourself if the mounting that SeaVee did is adequate. As long as no one ever steps on them, I doubt there will ever be a problem. Here's a shot of a seacock that is designed not to fail and will stay on the hull even if the mushroom falls off:

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n114/kern-o/Groco-Seacock.jpg

When a fitting is installed with just a nut, the threads can be under a fair amount of tension. If there is more load added to the threads, such as a person stepping on the fitting or valve, the threaded portion can break.

The reason the threads need to match. Otherwise you will have minimal thread engagement and a weak "joint."

looks really good. i still prefer my tab pumps not be in the bilge.

Thats some Prime Real Estate compared to my Everglades Bilge Access.

I remember Kerno's posts on this issue when he was building. I evaluated SeaVee in that context and found that while the flanged fitting was not used, I did not see a problem for me personally since I'm the only one going in there and I'll know not to step on any of the horizontal valves.

That aside I recognized the bilge immediately. Pretty much a work of art.

Since I will be down there Monday, I'll present this to Ariel for comments.

Oh my god, a bilge that doesn't have smooth, beautiful gel coat that needs periodic waxing!!?? What is the world coming to. Sarcasm dripping of course, that bilge looks fine. I would be curious to know what each thru hull goes to.

Which model SeaVee is that bilge?

Thanks
Bryan

Jags, the thru hull in the middle is for the saltwater washdown & baitwell pump, the next two are for the two forward boxes (they are also on a diaphram pump), the next two are your scuppers and the one on the left is for your transom livewell.

Going, it looks like the bilge on a 32

Thanks BamBozzle

have a SV...has no hook...does have a very soft ride though - not the fastest out there. Just wish they made a 36-37' with 10' beam and at least 450 gallon capacity that I could trailer the 3-5x a year I do so I could quit looking at other brands. Really like the way they do things. do NOT like the sliding door though on the 34' - limits access on one side and if left open, fear someone would sit on it in the open position - fear it woud bend the tracks...

Touche, I believe one of the benefits on the redesigned 34 is the sliding door. On the old 34 that door has very heavy,there really has no way to close the door and open it from the inside to use the head by yourself. With the new door sliding sideways there is a button inside the closes and opens the door makes it easy to use the head. The 39 has had this same type of door since the first 39 back in 2007. The console is also nicer and not as tall as the old one and now the cooler is on the pneumatics so no more bending over and pulling the pin, just hit a buttom.

Didn't consider the weight of the larger door. makes sense and have better visibility - what if someone sits on it tho if left open? That was my only concern. Bamboozle I know you're buds with them, do you know if they have anythingn in between the 34' & 39' in the works?

I just got back from the factory and must say I am EXTREMELY impressed with the build on my boat and will post pics when I get back to Marietta. The thru hull plumbing that is horizontal is not directly accessible from the bilge opening and is much further aft so it is not possible to step on. The thru hull on my 34' is at least 3.5" in diameter. :) No other in-between boat sizes that I was made aware of.

Touche, I weigh 240lbs and have sat on the 39 and the 34 with the door in the open position and during the boat show we had people sit on the door while in the open position. I have not heard of any plans for a boat in between the 34 & 39. I did hear someone ask that they wanted more fuel on the 34 and I believe I heard they can put more fuel in the back hatch and I heard someone else say that if you got rid of the step down in the console you could get more fuel. This information did not come from Ariel so I would not say its 100% correct.

Geez, at $4.50 a gallon more fuel? :o 350 gallons is enough for me.

whats the black and yellow ring tubing on the left?

whats the black and yellow ring tubing on the left?

looks like a macerator pump from the fish box. I think?

whats the black and yellow ring tubing on the left?

Looks like head discharge

whats the black and yellow ring tubing on the left?

It's the diaphram pump for the two forward fishboxes (they put a y valve to choose which box you want to drain) both fishboxes also have a thru hull that if the boat is out of the water or moving if you open the valve will drain

it's works very nice if you are in a dry stack, trailer or lift or moving in the water you can open the valves and drain the fishboxes. If you are tied up at a dock or in the water you can pump the fishboxes using the diaphram pump

I have 2 of those black & yellow things since I have the aft fishbox pumpout. :)

Jags, the thru hull in the middle is for the saltwater washdown & baitwell pump, the next two are for the two forward boxes (they are also on a diaphram pump), the next two are your scuppers and the one on the left is for your transom livewell.

Do I understand there are ball valves on the scuppers? Curious why.

my guess would be for emergency purposes should you have an issue with the hose.