The Boating Forum - Boat Left for 3 Weeks -- Battery Dead... Reverse Polarity... Nightmare.

Hey Guys,

I had to be out of town for work for the past 3 weeks. When I got back, my boat wouldn't start... But, that was just the start of my problems.

Here's an overview of what happened.

-Background on boat: it has a 2008 F225 and is basically new (65 hours on it). Never had a problem starting before.

-When boat wouldn't start -- I hooked up a portable jumper cable (btw, the jumper was probably only half-charged). However, all electricals were able to turn on... But, the engine wouldn't turn over. The starter would make a brief attempt (a one second rev) and then everything would die...

-I waited for 15 minutes of charging, hoping that would help. Still nothing...

-Foolishly, I was frustrated and "tinkered" a bit... :mad: Long and short of it, I kept hooking the portable jumper up to the battery in different ways, hoping to get a better connection (thinking that could be the problem).

-After hooking it up several times, I made a cardinal mistake... :nono: I reverse hooked up the red/black cables. This time, the "reverse polarity" alarm went off on my portable charger and I quickly pulled the cables.

-Now, of course, nothing works...

I'm assuming the following...

-I should be prepared to change all of the fuses... assuming those are blown. (Any suggestions on where to get them? West Marine was spotty, at best...)

-I'm going to change the battery at this point, regardless -- it was actually an older battery on the boat (long story).

-I'm also aware their could be a bunch of other electrical damage as a result of my bone-headed maneuever. :trout::trout:

-If the battery/fuse thing doesn't work, I'm now debating having a mechanic just pull the boat for the season and scope out any other problems. :(

Addendum... The bilge pump stopped working right before I left. The bilge had excess water in it at the time of trying to start -- not sure if this contributed to the initial problems.

ANY advice greatly appreciated.

;) RSM

Ouch

Start with a fresh new battery installed properly

Start turning on each system and troubleshoot as you go.

You should have blown only the main fuse off the batt, if any.
Charge up the current batt on a land-based 120v charger.

And disconnect the previously failed bilge pump, it's probably the root of your problems.
I wouldn't expect problems beyond fuses.

When you hook a battery pack hook the neg to an engine bolt instead of the neg post of the battery. That way you isolate the battery when trying to start it.

You should have blown only the main fuse off the batt, if any.
Charge up the current batt on a land-based 120v charger.

I hope you're right, my friend. One thing, there were no sparks -- nothing. Both batteries (charging one and boat one) were pretty dead... So, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I still think I'm going to install a fresh battery and go over the fuses carefully, perhaps change them all...

Any advice on a new battery? Right now, I have a 650 12v starting battery that was fine. Should I get a bigger one? Is there a brand I should look for? Can I use an auto battery, or is there something special about the ones geared towards boats (corrosion resistance???)

Check your existing batt first, charge up and get a load test done.
But is you find it's bad, just get the same CCA if it worked for you.

Someones screwing around with a new rig and about to cause some more problems....

I wouldn't put a 650 cca battery on a motor that probably needs an 800. And if this is the start battery, I would make mine one of these...

http://www.cabelas.com/link-12/product/0023033016446a.shtml?cmCat=perf&rid=0987654321&cm_mmc=Performics-_-CSE-_-GoogleBaseUSA-_-0023033016446a&mr:trackingCode=A75784C8-958E-DF11-A0C8-002219318F67&mr:referralID=NA

If you have the room, a Sears Die-hard Platinum PM1 is a rebranded odyssey battery and is the shiznit.

I think you start with a fully charged battery (new or charge your own and test) and as previously mentioned, start with one system at a time. If it works, you're good. Be aware that some items might have barrely fuses banded in with the wiring and you might have to take some time looking.

How high was the water in the bilge?

Someone who could reverse polarity jumping a battery, probably should be one of the last people troubleshooting that electrical system.

Sorry.

Someone who could reverse polarity jumping a battery, probably should be one of the last people troubleshooting that electrical system.

Sorry.

No apology necessary... I don't disagree with you.

Just looking for a few simple things I can do now, to see if it's just battery charge and fuses. I won't monkey around with anything else at this point, as I stated...

As far as the reverse polarity, yeah it was stupid. I've jump-started boats and cars for years, and have never done this. Just wasn't thinking...

Just pull it at this point, the season is almost over, you bilge pump is shot and should probably not leave it in without one.

Just looking for a few simple things I can do now, to see if it's just battery charge and fuses.

Yeah I know it just $ucks.

The best scenario would be a blown main fuse or open breaker.

The cause of the dead batt is next.
Hopefully your bilge pump float switch stuck and the pump drained the batt. This is common when the marina is calm. It has happened to me on a previous boat.

I did an experiment and purchased an electronic pump switch a couple years ago and it has been flawless. You can test them too and they have a built in 3 second delay to prevent unnecessary pump cycling.

Hopefully that is your only problem.

Is there a possibility that the reverse polarity "alarm" is actually a safety device that won't allow the connection between batteries to be made? In other words, a relay built into the jumper box to keep you from blowing yourself up? If so, then the boat equipment would be safe and your dead battery is the only real problem (along with whatever made it die).

Is there a possibility that the reverse polarity "alarm" is actually a safety device that won't allow the connection between batteries to be made? In other words, a relay built into the jumper box to keep you from blowing yourself up? If so, then the boat equipment would be safe and your dead battery is the only real problem (along with whatever made it die).

I thought of that... It appears it's just a warning alarm, nothing more. Also, clearly something happened, since after the alarm, the boat wouldn't get any power from the jump. (Good idea for the manufacturer, though: they should indeed have a cut-off once the alarm is activated...)

Going out today, with a bunch of fuses and a new battery...

most motors don't care about polarity and no incandescent lights do, only LED and some flrourescents.. DC's just run backward if the load allows. If pumps don't run and lights don't light then the reason is around the source somewhere.
I sure wouldn't trust that battery and it could be polarity reversed too at this point.

Yamaha recommends a 750 amp, 182 reserve capacity battery for the big 4 strokes. Penn Deka makes them (also sold under the West Marine name.) Get the right battery and replace the fuse(s) and you should be fine.

Someone who could reverse polarity jumping a battery, probably should be one of the last people troubleshooting that electrical system.


It happens to the best of us. It's not stupidity, it's just a matter of being in a hurry and trying to deal with too many things at once.

I'm surprised though that anything happened at all if the charger had a reverse polarity alarm on it. What's the point of that alarm if it's still going to fry your setup? LOL

I also think you'll be ok, main engine fuse is the first place to start. AFAIK yamahas take this situation pretty well. (I know my old waverunner did)

Someone who could reverse polarity jumping a battery, probably should be one of the last people troubleshooting that electrical system.

Sorry.

it sounds cruel, but i agree. i think for some not hiring someone might be penny wise and pound foolish.

And disconnect the previously failed bilge pump, it's probably the root of your problems.
I wouldn't expect problems beyond fuses.

Agree!

RSM, While you did (admitting so) make a bone-head move, you owned up to it. We've all been in a heated moment and shit the bed because we were in a rush.

I can offer some really good advice. When it comes to boats... as much of a hurry as you may be in to get it done and get on the water, you ALWAYS want to allow double the amount of time to work on anything and keep your area and tools VERY organized. TAKE YOUR TIME. Boats do something to the best of us. The sea calls us and we rush to get things done.

With that being said, pay no mind to the "you're too stupid to work on your boat" lines... you don't think the "pros" screw up once in a while when they were up late drinking cheap-junk beer and watching their NFL? Ha! I can promise it.

Just TAKE YOUR TIME and read-up on what you don't know, and trouble shoot it. I would suspect that the bilge pump is the problem (like others have said) -- I would get the battery)(ies) fully charged on a nice slow trickle and see how they hold up (or buy new ones if they aren't good, whatever).

Good Luck,

Pete

Fuses, low voltage. Should be ok.

Let us know.

Hey Guys,

I had to be out of town for work for the past 3 weeks. When I got back, my boat wouldn't start... But, that was just the start of my problems.

Here's an overview of what happened.

-Background on boat: it has a 2008 F225 and is basically new (65 hours on it). Never had a problem starting before.

-When boat wouldn't start -- I hooked up a portable jumper cable (btw, the jumper was probably only half-charged). However, all electricals were able to turn on... But, the engine wouldn't turn over. The starter would make a brief attempt (a one second rev) and then everything would die...

-I waited for 15 minutes of charging, hoping that would help. Still nothing...

-Foolishly, I was frustrated and "tinkered" a bit... :mad: Long and short of it, I kept hooking the portable jumper up to the battery in different ways, hoping to get a better connection (thinking that could be the problem).

-After hooking it up several times, I made a cardinal mistake... :nono: I reverse hooked up the red/black cables. This time, the "reverse polarity" alarm went off on my portable charger and I quickly pulled the cables.

-Now, of course, nothing works...

I'm assuming the following...

-I should be prepared to change all of the fuses... assuming those are blown. (Any suggestions on where to get them? West Marine was spotty, at best...)

-I'm going to change the battery at this point, regardless -- it was actually an older battery on the boat (long story).

-I'm also aware their could be a bunch of other electrical damage as a result of my bone-headed maneuever. :trout::trout:

-If the battery/fuse thing doesn't work, I'm now debating having a mechanic just pull the boat for the season and scope out any other problems. :(

Addendum... The bilge pump stopped working right before I left. The bilge had excess water in it at the time of trying to start -- not sure if this contributed to the initial problems.

ANY advice greatly appreciated.

;) RSM
If I read you right you were using a portable jumper that consisted of a battery and jumpers in a unit that was half charged. After failing to start your engine, you left it on to "charge" your batts. A jumper like that won't charge your batts to any appreciable degree on a good day, and particularly when it was half charged and you connected it to two stone dead batts, all you did was drain the jumper unit further. When you reversed the polarity the most likely outcome is that you blew a fuse in the portable jumper unit that protects it from reverse polarity. Remove your batts from the boat and get them charged either with a 120v ac charger or run your tow vehicle with jumper cables to the batts (one at a time). Spend 5 bucks at an auto parts and get a battery hydrometer so you know if they're good or not. When reinstalling the batts hook up the negative leads then (with everything in the boat switched off) read the voltage between the positive batt terminal and the positive batt cable end. IF its reading any voltage something is drawing current. A more primitve test is just touching the pos cable to the pos bat term to look for sparks but it's risky if there's gas fumes or hydrogen fumes present. Don't use this method unless the cables are long enougn to get out of the bilge and into the fresh air. If you're drawing current start disconnecting stuff in the boat till you clear it, obviously starting with the bilge pump. The fuse panel is usually the most convenient place to do this. Keep track of what fuses go where. Hooking up the positive cables to the batteries before you clear the souce of the drain will just kill them again.

With that being said, pay no mind to the "you're too stupid to work on your boat" lines... you don't think the "pros" screw up once in a while when they were up late drinking cheap-junk beer and watching their NFL? Ha! I can promise it.


Seconding this. Talk to any electrician over a beer. I especially like the story about what happened when someone connected the hospital's new low voltage DC alarm system to 120v AC.

Also seconding/n'thing the advice to charge your battery and test it with a hydrometer or get it load tested before you replace it or start ripping out fuses.

The hydrometer might not work though. I have one "maintenance-free" battery I can't get into no matter where I fiddle and pry. Must the child-proof version.

RSM, update??

RSM, update??

I went ahead and bought a new battery at BJ's -- Marine Dual Purpose 12v with 750 amps/5 year warranty. It was relatively inexpensive ($89) so I figured I'd start fresh...

I've got a package of fuses coming today...

I'm going to head out to boat in the next couple days...

Update...

Okay, I went out to my boat today, armed with a new battery, fuses, and a re-charged portable charger -- and a little bit of hope.

Here's what I did and what the results where.

1) Checked all Fuses -- all appeared fine. Decided to leave them alone initially.

2) Ensured Main Breaker was "re-set"

3) Hooked up the portable jumper to the existing battery (correctly). Nothing -- no electricals turned on, including things like lights and horn.

4) Replaced the battery with the new one. BTW, the existing one was a 750 -- and the new one is a 730... not sure if that matters at this point. BTW, I was careful to follow the exact procedure -- removed the positive reds first, then the negative blacks; when I replaced, I started with the negative blacks and finished with the positive reds. Tightened everything carefully.

5) Tried to turn the power one -- again, nothing. Not even a light or horn...

6) Replaced ALL of the fuses with brand new ones. Repeated step 4) -- again, nothing.

Since none of the fuses blew -- and nothing is turning on (even with a brand new battery) I'm assuming I blew something close to the battery... Perhaps the pair of main breakers need to be replaced?

Am I missing something? I have a friend whose also a boat mechanic coming out with me to look in the next couple of days...

Here are some pics:

Battery -- pair of "Hi-Amp" Breakers rear of battery...

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd360/BoSoxMan/IMG_1360-1.jpg

Circuit Panel...

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd360/BoSoxMan/IMG_1362.jpg

The Bilge -- a few inches of water (I scooped most of it out, but still a few inches left); this wasn't working and was likely the source of the drain...

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd360/BoSoxMan/IMG_1366.jpg







http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd360/BoSoxMan/IMG_1360-1.jpg

Did you push the button on those breakers to reset them?

ding ding ding, we may have a winner.

Last picture, toward the bottom, forefront of the picture -- there I would guess that fuse inside of there...

Also, set and reset those breakers on the "back wall"... I don't think you did any damage... you're just missing a breaker/fuse. Follow the line from the battery post and onward. You'll find it.

Pete

Here

Did you push the button on those breakers to reset them?

Yes, I did -- as I stated.

Here

I did push the red buttons on the main breakers.

But, FASTFJR -- yes, it could be a blown fuse in that connector... What type of fuse goes in there? Do I need to replace the entire piece...

Dumb question...do you have a battery switch?

i would take a multi meter and test everything. Start at the battery and work your way back until you find the problem. Start at battery, then before the first fuse or breaker then after it...etc then just keep going until you find where there is 12 volts going in and nothing coming out.

Do you have a multi meter?

Dumb question...do you have a battery switch?

No.

Again, I'm guessing it's that fuse in the foreground. Since those two breakers (in the background) didn't need to be re-set... Does the small one in the foreground reset? Do I replace that entire thing... or does it come apart -- and if so, what type of fuse typically goes in?

Do you have a multi meter?

The fuse in the fore ground looks like it's just for the bilge or one electronic, not your whole house system.

Looks like a radio memory fuse.

I might be mistaken, but you don't reset those breakers (if they are what I think they are) by pushing the red button. The red button is the trip switch to open the breaker. You reset those breakers by swinging the arm that the red button is in through 90 degrees. You might have done this, but if all you have done is push the button and nothing happened, then those breakers are possibly still open. Give the 'lever' a twist through 90 degrees downwards and see what happens.

clean all your connections, install a known good battary and it should be fine, what was the voltage of your battarys when you hooked the other battery wrong? You should of seen sparks if your ground was good. You sayed your bilge pump stoped working, are you sure it's not putting a draw on your battery cuseing it to drain the battery?

Those red buttons open the breakers, they don't reset them. There is a little black bar that swings out from a ridge built into the surface of the breaker. Push that reset bar back in.

The fuse holder should have an ATC or ATO fuse in it. ATC and ATO fuses are flat styled fuses like the ones in your main fuse block. I couldn't guess at the fuse value or what it goes to other than it might be for the bilge pump.

Those wires going through the bulkhead should really have some chafe protection. The raw fiberglass edges of that hole are very abrasive.

Those red buttons open the breakers, they don't reset them. There is a little black bar that swings out from a ridge built into the surface of the breaker. Push that reset bar back in.

The fuse holder should have an ATC or ATO fuse in it. ATC and ATO fuses are flat styled fuses like the ones in your main fuse block. I couldn't guess at the fuse value or what it goes to other than it might be for the bilge pump.

Those wires going through the bulkhead should really have some chafe protection. The raw fiberglass edges of that hole are very abrasive.

I did do that -- I pushed the bars back (didn't just push the buttons;) :)

I have a bunch of standard ATC fuses... So, you're saying one (or more) of those could go into the little connector in the foreground?

Stop guessing, get a multi meter at Radio shack for $10 and see where the problem is.

It is unlikely, but give each of the main power leads a good pull behind the battery connector to make sure that they are not corroded/burnt out where the cable enters the metal sleeve. Corrosion in the connectors is not unusual, but normally in an older/messier environment than yours seems to be.

I did do that -- I pushed the bars back (didn't just push the buttons;) :)

I have a bunch of standard ATC fuses... So, you're saying one (or more) of those could go into the little connector in the foreground?


Yes, ATC and ATO fuses are all the same dimensions. The amperage value is the only thing that changes.

Stop guessing, get a multi meter at Radio shack for $10 and see where the problem is.

X2

how bout this as a solution? hire an electrician and have him trouble shoot and while he is in there, have him clean up that birds nest (although not the worst I have seen) and move some of those wires connected to the battery to another fuse block where they should be....not bilge pump obviously....
have him install a battery switch while he is there and have him fix your bilge pump

you have a $20,000 motor that is barely 3 years old...why are you intially worried about spending $75 on a new battery....quit trying to revive the old one, it is toast, recycle it, hire some help...pay for 3 hours labor...move on and have a better wired boat in the end

You did check your engine fuse(s,) right? I know you said "all" fuses, but want to be sure.

a multi meter will save you time and eliminate this guess work. If you dont want to buy one (i would they are a handy thing to have) ask a friend. Im sure youve got a friend whos got one.

You did check your engine fuse(s,) right? I know you said "all" fuses, but want to be sure.

X2 the picture of the fuses you posted aren't for your engine. Pull the cover off the motor and check.

Are your electronics turning on? Radio, GPS, VHF, etc...

Did you check your battery switch?

Did you check your battery voltage? I know you bought a fresh battery, but who knows how long it was sitting. It could be dead.

You did check your engine fuse(s,) right? I know you said "all" fuses, but want to be sure.


But why would an engine fuse have any impact on something like the horn or radio working?

But why would an engine fuse have any impact on something like the horn or radio working?

Thats why I asked if your electronics were working.

Have you tried tripping the breakers and resetting them? Check for a voltage on both sides of that CB.

Ugh...we are stillplaying the guessing game.

Get a multimeter and see where the juice stops! How hard can that be? ;?:trout:

...why are you intially worried about spending $75 on a new battery....quit trying to revive the old one, it is toast, recycle it, hire some help...pay for 3 hours labor...move on and have a better wired boat in the end

If you read the thread, I already replaced the battery with a new one.

But why would an engine fuse have any impact on something like the horn or radio working?

Exactly.

Thats why I asked if your electronics were working.

Have you tried tripping the breakers and resetting them? Check for a voltage on both sides of that CB.

Nothing is turning on -- not even the horn or lights, as I stated earlier.

Ugh...we are stillplaying the guessing game.

Get a multimeter and see where the juice stops! How hard can that be? ;?:trout:

I'm not playing this game...

I'm taking your advice. I haven't responded since you wrote that last night... I'm getting a multi-mater -- and a friend who's a boat mechanic, and I'm going to try and diagnose exactly where electricity is not longer having continuity. I suspect it's close to the battery. It may be those H-Buss's even though I did re-set them...

Thanks for everyone's input. I'll post again when I source the problem

;) RSM

They have fuses there to protect engine from doing that. Example: optimax has a 100 amp fusable link from the solinoid to the altenator there specificlly for that reason. that blows nothing works.

I'm not playing this game...

I'm taking your advice. I haven't responded since you wrote that last night... I'm getting a multi-mater -- and a friend who's a boat mechanic, and I'm going to try and diagnose exactly where electricity is not longer having continuity. I suspect it's close to the battery. It may be those H-Buss's even though I did re-set them...

Thanks for everyone's input. I'll post again when I source the problem

;) RSM

:thumbsup: What ever you find, I hope it's a simple fix. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Okay, here's the update...

The good news is the engine is fine and now working. After using the multi-meter, I confirmed the flow of power and confirmed that engine was getting power -- but, after removing the cowling, I found that there were indeed two blown mini-fuses that needed replacing.

Most of the electricity is working now on the boat -- GPS, lights, horn...

However, the Stereo and VHF are not working. Nor is the Bilge Pump (which could have a separate problem)... The fuses to all three are fine, both the ones in the panel and the ones directly relating to each unit. I'm wondering if there is another breaker along the way I'm not finding...

I guess t's also possible that these units were fried by the reverse polarity.

Any other thoughts appreciated.

Thanks for all the advice.

RSM

And disconnect the previously failed bilge pump, it's probably the root of your problems.
I wouldn't expect problems beyond fuses.

When you hook a battery pack hook the neg to an engine bolt instead of the neg post of the battery. That way you isolate the battery when trying to start it.

Anyone: again, the only things not working right now...

-Stereo -- Did I fry this?
-VHF -- Did I fry this?
-Bilge Pump (Stopped working before my "mis-hap"...

I've check all fuses I can find (master panel and fuses directly located with each unit)...

Both VHF and Stereo were "off" -- is it even possible to "blow" these with reverse polarty if they are off? Also, wouldn't the reverse current have tripped a fuse along the way... I wonder if there's a fuse I'm missing -- mid-stream -- that's blocking continuity...

Anyone: again, the only things not working right now...

-Stereo -- Did I fry this?
-VHF -- Did I fry this?
-Bilge Pump (Stopped working before my "mis-hap"...

I've check all fuses I can find (master panel and fuses directly located with each unit)...

Both VHF and Stereo were "off" -- is it even possible to "blow" these with reverse polarty if they are off? Also, wouldn't the reverse current have tripped a fuse along the way... I wonder if there's a fuse I'm missing -- mid-stream -- that's blocking continuity...

Off is only a state in modern circuits. They don't physically open circuits any more (for the most part). If power comes in on the ground, it can have a lot of unexpected effects.

In any case, what I would do is hook the vhf up to the battery directly. Remove it from the dash and wire it directly. If it doesn't work, replace it. Boat stereo's are toys anyway. you can try to directly power it but you might as well just replace it without the added effort of fixing it. If the vhf is bad, replace them both.

Anyone: again, the only things not working right now...

-Stereo -- Did I fry this?
-VHF -- Did I fry this?
-Bilge Pump (Stopped working before my "mis-hap"...

I've check all fuses I can find (master panel and fuses directly located with each unit)...

Both VHF and Stereo were "off" -- is it even possible to "blow" these with reverse polarty if they are off? Also, wouldn't the reverse current have tripped a fuse along the way... I wonder if there's a fuse I'm missing -- mid-stream -- that's blocking continuity...

Stereo, VHF... sounds like you need to go and see if the unit is getting any power. Strip a little of the wire by the head unit and see if you have juice. If yes , it's possibly the head unit, if not you need to trace the wirtes back to see where the power stops flowing. Could be a blown in line fuse or even burnt wires some where.

Same thing with the Bilgepump.

Bring a can of liquid wire tape. Poke the multimeter by the pump/radios and see if you have power. Seal the holes with liquid tape afterwards.

Stereo, VHF... sounds like you need to go and see if the unit is getting any power. Strip a little of the wire by the head unit and see if you have juice. If yes , it's possibly the head unit, if not you need to trace the wirtes back to see where the power stops flowing. Could be a blown in line fuse or even burnt wires some where.

Same thing with the Bilgepump.

Bring a can of liquid wire tape. Poke the multimeter by the pump/radios and see if you have power. Seal the holes with liquid tape afterwards.

Okay, this is probably a dumb question, but if I strip away some of the wire by the head unit -- how do I know where to put the positive (red) and negative (black) testing wires from the Multimeter?

If it's a digital multimeter it will show negative voltage if you have them reversed. If it's analog, the needle will just move backwards until it hits the stop pin.

I'm starting to agree with a few of the other posters. You may want to get some help on this. Just having a multi meter isn't going to help much if you don't at least have a basic understanding of the subject. Or maybe you could read up on 12vdc electric. There are some pretty good books out there that will give you the basics. Charlie Wing's The 12 Volt Bible is decent. Nigel Calder's book, Boat Owner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual is good also.

If you get a little knowledge under your belt, troubleshooting can be fairly straightforward. It might take some time to track a problem down but it's better than throwing darts, which is what you are doing right now.

Just use a test light and check to see if you have power coming to the fuse that is with each unit. Just about all VHF and Radio have their own fuse coming out of the back of the unit. Open up the fuse and see if your getting power to there and if you are then replace the fuse and try cutting them on. If you still get nothing then its a good chance the unit is fried.

Anyone: again, the only things not working right now...

-Stereo -- Did I fry this?
-VHF -- Did I fry this?
-Bilge Pump (Stopped working before my "mis-hap"...

I've check all fuses I can find (master panel and fuses directly located with each unit)...

Both VHF and Stereo were "off" -- is it even possible to "blow" these with reverse polarty if they are off? Also, wouldn't the reverse current have tripped a fuse along the way... I wonder if there's a fuse I'm missing -- mid-stream -- that's blocking continuity...

Are you sure you reconnected all your wires to the battery? Sounds like your stereo and VHF are connected on the same circuit.

I don't think you fried your vhf and stereo. If you checked all your fuses and they are good then you have a wire not connected or a broken connector or wire.

I had the whole family down to go fishing one Saturday. I knew we had a couple of nights of heavy rain, but didn't think anything of it. Sure enough, the outboard wouldn't even turn over....just that click...click...click. My wife was furious, her sister was in town visiting for the day and really wanted to go for a ride. A few weeks later, she found this device on the Internet that will send you a text message if your battery is running low, best investment yet. It also can be set up to send you a daily message with the current battery condition, so you know to go down to the marina and run the engine for a while.

No apology necessary... I don't disagree with you.

Just looking for a few simple things I can do now, to see if it's just battery charge and fuses. I won't monkey around with anything else at this point, as I stated...

As far as the reverse polarity, yeah it was stupid. I've jump-started boats and cars for years, and have never done this. Just wasn't thinking...

Chit happens, at this point maybe get a new battery, change fuses, if still dead call professional! Seabob is a great resource

The stereo's wiring harness has its own fuse. Take that fuse out and put your multimeter probe in it and check for power with your stereo accessory switch on. There could be two fuses in the harness check both.

Throw that jump pack away. That crap has no business on a boat. If your battery dies, you need to charge it all the way up. A boat is not like a car where you jump it and drive home. If your jump pack starts your boat and you drive into the middle of the harbor and your motor shuts down it may not start it again.

Buy a real battery charger.

Guys,

Yer resurrecting a thread from 18 months ago. I suspect RSM has sorted it out by now.:grin:

Must be winter.:grin:


Big Al

Guys,

Yer resurrecting a thread from 18 months ago. I suspect RSM has sorted it out by now.:grin:

Must be winter.:grin:


Big Al

Yeah, all fixed -- new battery, master shut-off switch installed, and a few fuses too... :thumbsup: