The Boating Forum - Buying 1st saltwater boat. Anyone have time to help the new guy?

I apologize in advance for the greenhorn question, but I am at a loss for info.

My dad and I are buying a boat for our home in coastal NC (Southport). This is something we have talked about for years, but we are finally able to afford it. We are wanting a boat for fishing the intercoastal waterway and near shore areas in our area. We had a few freshwater boats when I was growing up, but have never been in the salt before. Our plan now is to buy a 18-20' CC with a 115-150 hp motor. The few names we have on our short list are Triumph and Parker, both made locally in NC. However, I am wide open to suggestions as we admittingly don't know jack. I have a few questions below for anyone patient enough to help out. Being that neither of us know anyone with a saltwater boat, I am most appreciative of any insights you may share.


Generally speaking, how far out do folks safely go out from shore in 18-20' center console boats?

What brand motor would you recommend?

What type of electronics do you outfit this size fishing boat with and roughly what do they cost?

The local marina has a dry dock and will put our boat in when we call for under $200/month. Is this a routine thing to do or do most folks trailer their boats. We live 2 miles from the marina and will use the boat 8 months out of the year perhaps.

There are tons of "optional equipment" when ordering and we are clueless. For a fishing boat and occasional family cruiser on the waterway, what optional items would you suggest. The only thing I know I want is the T-top. Don't really know what else is important to have.

What type of classes or books would you recommend to a village idiot:)


Eager to learn more and appreciate any suggestions. Hoping to do this right the first time and get a boat our family will be happy with for years to come. I thank you in advance for any insights you may choose to share.


-Dan

Just bought my 1st saltwater boat a few weeks ago. Main thing is take the amount you plan to spend and add 20 percent to it. You will want all the extras/ammenities you can have. Better to spend the money once and get it done the right way. I would definitly want freshwater sink, livewell, saltwater washdown, ttop with rod holders. I have a garmin gps/ff. It's ok but would like to step up to a raymarine setup down the line. Buddy has one with radar and auto pilot and it's really sweet. Good luck and have fun.

I won't be the best advice out there, as most of my fishing has been fresh water as well, but I have owned several saltwater type boats.

I owned a Triumph 170CC and it was a fun little boat with a 50hp on it, handled well for it's size (narrow) and actually fished pretty good. On the other hand, I have seen some of their 18-19ft boats that looked like crap after a few years in the sun. They used to be a cheaper alternative to fiberglass boats but are at least as expensive now, so they would not be my top choice.

Parker has a great reputation. You can get similar boats made by Judge Yachts and Jones brothers of equivalent quality, or Maycraft and C-Hawk with a bit more wood in them for less money. All are good boats for inshore/bay, more a question of construction materials, finish, and price between them.

Tons of other brands out there that would also work, check the dealers around you and come back with questions on any brands you like. Same for the engines, pretty much all are good in the 115 to 150 hp range, but for your boat size you might want to step up to 150 on the 18' and at least 175 on the 20', and maybe consider up to 225 hp. Lots of the 200 hp engines are not really a big improvement on the 175s, that's why I jump to recommending 225 hp.

Being only 2 miles from the marina, if you have a spot to store it on it's trailer, do that. If you don't and the marina offers trailer storage, do that. Keeping a boat that size in the water seems silly to me if you are that close, but a lot could depend on how busy the local ramp is the days you like to boat.

You need a fishfinder/depth finder for sure. You should at least have a compass and handheld GPS, and you may spring for a chartplotter. Definitely need a VHF radio, at least handheld but console mounted with an 8' antenna is a lot better. Raw water washdown is good to have for cleaning off fish blood or slime. A good baitwell/livewell is always useful, as well as a well insulated fish box. If you wanted to fish a longer season, you'd want a curtain package for the t-top. Trim tabs are a good investment for the boat too. Aluminum trailer with stainless disk brakes.

That should do it. New you are looking at mid $20's to mid $30's depending on size, brand and construction, unless you get one of the high dollar boats (Grady, Whaler, custom types)

I have seen people out as far as 30 miles offshore ( weather pending) with a 18 to 20 foot boat. If the sea are about 3 foot I would stay inshore.

I perfer Yamaha 4 strokes. We have twins on our Century 2400CC

The marina is a great idea. We had ours in a marina for a year or so and loved it. Make sure you flush your motors and wash the boat after every use.

It would be great to have a GPS/Fish Finder on the boat ( These can run from $500.00 on up to several thousands of dollars, VHF Radio, fresh water tanks, outriggers, good storage for tackle, safety gear, port a potty for those who don't like showing of their brithday suits, coolers, etc. I'll let someone add the rest. Total cost of all our gear was around $6000.00 not including the Raymarine E80 and Sirus Weather.

The Coast Guard has a great program on line. But if you have been boating before the rule are about the same.

We learn must of our offshore/inshore stuff by watching other people and talking to them at the ramp. Some will take a few minutes and answer your questions.

The only thing I can tell you is that offshore fishing is the best. But it is expensive. Bait, fuel, lunch food, drinks, ice and the wife wanting dinner before she goes home adds up.

Good luck and safe boating.

I'm just chimming in so that I can watch this thread. I'm interested in this also.

I'm planning on buying a Sea Hunt Ultra which i will mainly use for freshwater but may like to hit the ocean once our twice throughout the summer...

I too have never fished in the ocean and am also on the east cost. Closest ocean water is about 2 hours away though :/

I don't know where i would put in or anything. I'd probably be somewhere around the Myrtle Beach or Savannah area though.. (i'm in Augusta Ga)

Thanks for the insights guys. I greatly appreciate it. Hoping to hear from anyone that has time to share.

well, there's plenty of advice to be given here. It seems you need to know everything from soup to nuts, and thats a LOT of info. Best bet is to research plenty of info here.

A few basic questions, what kind of fishing(will determine range) will you be doing? How many people will you "normally" have on board? How many people do you want to be able to fish? What is your budget? All of these questions will give you better responses.

I know a guy who has a 21' CC, and heads out 80+ miles to the canyon up here in NJ. He has to strap 2 55 gallon steel drums to the side of the console, but he does it, and he is happy. Me.....Never. Also, how far you can go out has a lot to do with where you live. In Florida, where it is notoriously calmer than the norther east coast, you can go maybe 60-80 miles in a 20' boat depending on weather and seas, where you could never do that in the northeast comfortably. In NC, you deal with a lot of the same as NJ, your best will be 1 footers, probably 6 days a year, probably 50% of the time it will be 2 footers or better, and the other 50% of the time you don't boat.

I would expect the average 18 to go up to maybe 6-8 miles out, and the most capable 20 footer to about 20 miles. The big thing for me in that size range is that you could get "stuck" out in a bad storm. Once you get above 24 or so, your capabilities to handle storms gets incredibly higher, where below that, you will have a ROUGH go of it. Some of the big things on a boat if you try and go offshore a bit(up to 20 miles) is GPS. I have heard Garming is about the best GPS out there, which is not surprising, but they are by FAR not the best FF. I know a lot of people who have 2 units, one FF, and one GPS, both with the dual capabilities, which gives them a back-up of each function. I researched a LOT of combo units, and I liked the raymarine the best. Hummingbird and Garmin are the most user friendly, I found raymarine to be highest quality picture, and the only one with a digital FF out of the ~$1000 options.

Outboards, pretty much anyone makes a good one anymore. Suzuki's are the lightest, and touted as great motors, merc's are the heaviest, and noisy from my experience. Yamaha seems to get the best rep for quiet and low gas consumption. Along with those 3, the e-tecs get great reviews as well. If going newer(since 2005 or so) they are all about equal.

Stay away from Triumph boats. I have a friend that got a 19' CC Triumph and has had nothing but problems with it. It's basically a plastic boat. If it cracks (which theirs did, several times) they just heat it up and melt it back together. Not lying. There are a lot of great salty boats made here in SC. I obviously highly recommend a Key West. Scout and Sea Pro are also great boats. Avoid Sea Fox. Have another friend that put a 115 on a 17' sea fox and the transom separated from the hull, twice.

Yamaha and Suzuki are great motors. Not much experience with Mercury, Evinrude, or Johnson.

Things I would like to have on my next saltwater boat (having owned mine since 2003) are :
- under-the-gunwale rod holders
- color gps/fish finder combo with map data showing marinas, ramps, channel markers, etc.
- dealer installed trolling motor (get the biggest one you can afford, 24v minimum, 36v is best)
- raw water wash down (freshwater on-board tank is unnecessary)
- all pads for decking and seats (bow cushion, transom seat cushions if optional, etc.)
- power-pole (dealer installed)
- hydraulic trim tabs (dealer installed)
- you'll also want plenty of livewell/baitwell space
- water tight, locking storage compartments

$200/month to store/launch your boat is expensive. If you have a proper towing vehicle, trailer it. However, if you have HOA rules, or your only vehicle is a Prius, then do the dry stack option.

There's probably more, but I can't think of anymore. You also need to decide if you want a deep-V or bay boat. Your answer depends on how much off shore you want to do. Anything more than 20% and I'd say deep-V. But if you want to chase redfish in the shallows, I'd go bay boat (Key West 196 Bay Reef with a T-top is a sweet boat. My buddy has that exact boat with a Yamaha 150).

Chiefsurfer,

Very informative post and I thank you.


As for the question your raised, we are willing to spend about $30-35k total and we will be buying a new boat.

We would like to cruise the intercoastal waterway with 5 people. Just the relaxing evening ride out with the family. 80% of the time, the boat will be for 2-3 fisherman and near shore is where we should be I suspect. It would be nice to get out a bit further, but I imagine our skill level and budget would be exceeded in doing so safely.

This boat is a long time dream for my dad and I. He is 60 and I am 37. We figured, what the hell are we waiting on. So we are going to pull the trigger on the boat. Slitting the cost, but I need to do all the research and do it well. That is what brings me here and I appreciate any insights or suggestions that may come my way.

Things I would like to have on my next saltwater boat (having owned mine since 2003) are :
- under-the-gunwale rod holders
- color gps/fish finder combo with map data showing marinas, ramps, channel markers, etc.
- dealer installed trolling motor (get the biggest one you can afford, 24v minimum, 36v is best)
- raw water wash down (freshwater on-board tank is unnecessary)
- all pads for decking and seats (bow cushion, transom seat cushions if optional, etc.)
- power-pole (dealer installed)
- hydraulic trim tabs (dealer installed)
- you'll also want plenty of livewell/baitwell space
- water tight, locking storage compartments





Thanks Hi-C, that is very helpful info indeed and I appreciate it.

-Dan

don't forget Scout Boats made outside of Charleston. Definitely get a Yamaha..it'll get you there and back

Well honestly, in 99% of 18' CC boats 3 people will be VERY crowded. Possible, but very crowded.

Sea Pro is a slightly less rough-water capable boat, but might be a good compromise for you. If you are only expecting to stay within a few miles, you should not have a real long ride, nor would you likely be weathering the roughest weather possible. They make a 21' CC(actually 20'6") which likely has a 18-20 degree deadrise. It is a core-construction hull to my knowledge, which means the boat is lighter. Both the shallower deadrise, and the lighter weight will mean better gas mileage. That will also translate into a more stabile fishing platform, and the ability to find skinnier water in the intercoastal. It is a big enough boat, that although a bit lighter, will still do ok in most conditions. Also, because of a lower power requirement and the slightly cheaper method of construction, you can probably get a 21 fully optioned out for that price range, where a parker or comparable would probably be bare bones at that price range.

For what it is, the seapro is a good boat.

GL, and if you find any particular boats and models you are considering let us know here, and maybe others will be able to help with the ins and outs of that boat.

All good info, for what your describing check out Sailfish boats built in GA. They make some beefy high freeboard CCs in the 20' range that are good quality vs. value.

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I will be sure to check them out. Any other thoughts on Parker or Triumph?

Depending on the weather a well equipped, well built 20' can go many miles off-shore. One of my friends regularly takes his 20' Albury from Jupiter to the Bahamas.

http://alburybrothers.com/tomsTravels.html

Most of today's engines are all well built and carry good warranties so it is really a matter of buying the one, that at the time of purchase, offers the best warranty and price. My preference in order is Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, Johnson and Mercury..

You can go nuts spending on electronics; however the essentials, IMO are a good radio/VHF and chart-plotter/depth sounder/fish finder combo like a Garmin 500 series or so. Sooner or later everything electric on a saltwater boat will corrode, so get the basics to begin with then decide after using the boat for a season or so what other toys you think you need...

Trailering is not as convenient as having the boat on the water or at the marina...period!

Optional equipment - T-top or Bimini a must, trim tabs and a live well, if live bait fishing is your type..the other 'stuff' like trolling motors, power poles, raw water wash down etc..are all are expensive and will require maintenance and sooner or later will break and IMO not necessary. Guys have been fishing from boats for eons and did not have all of these latest toys..... Same with bolsters against the rails. A neighbor of mine has a 20 year old Mako that has a radio and fish-finder on board and that is it..it looks like a battle wagon yet he out-fishes anyone i know.

You will find two types of boat owners...those who think they need the latest and greatest new toy or item on their boat and those who simply want a good boat that is easy to clean, maintain and own....not a lot of bells and whistles. the two boats you mention, Triumph and Parker lead me to believe you are on a budget and not interested in having a pimp mobile but rather a easy to maintain boat that you can jump on, go fish and then at the end of the day hose it down and be gone...

and by all means take any boat you consider for a rough water test ride....don't be fooled by going out on a calm day and thinking "wow, this boat runs really nice"...almost all boats perform well on calm water...however you will curse the day you bought the boat if she loosens your fillings in a moderate chop or worse

http://www.thehulltruth.com/members/oceanluvr30-albums-albury-20-picture39711-albury-20-indigoblu.bmp

Albury Brothers 20' w/175hp Suzuki

Look at Nautic Star boats. The 1910 and 2110 look good for your stated purpose especially with the rear fold down seats for cruising.

The two boats you mention, Triumph and Parker lead me to believe you are on a budget and not interested in having a pimp mobile but rather a easy to maintain boat that you can jump on, go fish and then at the end of the day hose it down and be gone...


That is exactly what I am looking for. I want the basics I need, but mostly desire a durable boat that is well made as I need it to last a long time. Thanks for sharing some thoughts with me here today. I appreciate your time and thoughts.

-Dan

on specifically triumph and parker. Parkers are TANKS. They are heavy, have a 21 degree deadrise if I remember correctly, plow through the waves and when properly maintained will last a LONG time. I have never even been on a triumph, but from the first time I found out they were plastic(maybe 4 years ago or so) I have been VERY leary.

http://www.pioneerboats.com/html/sport_fish.html

Make sure to buy from a good dealer that's fairly close. After the sale service is huge, regardless of what brand you get. Good luck!

Here's Yachtworld.com results, $30-$35K, CC, 22-24 feet, limited to The Southeast . Good luck on your quest. Does it have to be "new" or just new to you?

http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/cache/searchResults.jsp?cit=true&slim=quick&ybw=&sm=3&searchtype=advancedsearch&Ntk=boatsEN&Ntt=&is=&type=%28Power%29+Center+Console&man=&hmid=0&ftid=0&enid=0&fromLength=22&toLength=24&luom=126&fromYear=&toYear=&fromPrice=30000&toPrice=35000&currencyid=100&city=&rid=104&cint=100&pbsint=&boatsAddedSelected=-1&fracts=

Parkers are TANKS. They are heavy, have a 21 degree deadrise if I remember correctly, plow through the waves and when properly maintained will last a LONG time.

That is good to hear. I was at their website (among many others) and see they let you take a tour of the factory in NC. Pretty cool, I might take them up on that.


Dan

Check out the 21' Tidewater boat.It is a good entry level boat and in the price range you mentioned.Look at Blackberry Marine a few miles from Soutport. They sell Tidewater brand.I have the 195CC Triumph.It is my second one.I had the 170 and moved up a notch.Mine has been excellent with no problems.I'm older and the minimal maintenance aspect appealed to me. Good luck. Its a blast looking for a new boat.Enjoy the trip.

Thanks man, good to hear from you. The Triumph has been on my radar for years. Just don't know much about boats. Kind of sucks to buy one with that in mind. Ha ha..

Dan

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I will be sure to check them out. Any other thoughts on Parker or Triumph?

I used to fish a 19ft Parker back in the late 80's. We would go 20 - 30 miles offshore from McClellanville, SC. They were and still are built like tanks. I would never own a Triumph over a Parker. You should also check out Cape Horn Boats.

I would buy a Garmin GPS - easy to use and a Furuno or Raymarine bottom machine. They are MUCH better than Garmin's offerings.

Since you are new to this, I would keep my boat at a marina - sounds like you have enough to learn already. Trailering is a different animal.

I have owned Mercury engines for 20+ years and have never been stranded, but I fish with people that own Suzys and Yamaha engines. They are all pretty much equal these days. I would buy the brand based on where you can find the best service - just ask around.

Good Luck and have fun!:thumbsup:

Another vote for Parker. Thanks for chiming in man. Sounds like there are lots of quality boats out there. More than I might have first guessed to be honest. I have spent most the afternoon online looking over various websites from boats suggested here. One thing that would be helpful, although not possible I guess. Can anyone tell me what size boat would generally be fished within 5 miles from shore, 15-20 miles, 20-30 miles, etc.. For example, would a Parker 21' boat with a single 150 hp be considered "safe" 30 miles out. Sorry for revealing how helplessly stupid I am, but having realistic expectations is more than important for folks like me. It will likely determine the size boat I decide on. From reading here, there seems to be a big variance in where folks generally use 18' CC and 22' CC. More so than I would have thought. Thanks for any ideas guys.


-Dan

dan, that is a VERY tough question. The biggest reason why that is so difficult to answer is based on differences in construction that can vary by as little as a single degree of deadrise, to something hald the weight. For instance, a 21' seapro weighs basically 2000 lbs dry, where a 21' parker might weigh 3500 lbs dry. Also, a parker 21 might carry 150 gallons of fuel, where a seapro might carry 70 gallons. These are all references, and not necessarily true. Given those 2 examples, the parker would by far make it the "more seaworthy" boat. Basically, the heavier and deeper the v, the more seaworthy the boat, but there are obviously exceptions. It would be easier to give "classifications" to boats, and cite examples, rather than try and explain specific manufacturers.

So the first would be the DEEP-V. Some examples are Contender, Regulator, Fountain, Scarab, etc. These are usually your high-priced boats. They also usually have a very high HP motor for the size of the boat, as the deeper the V, the "slower" the hull wants to go, so you need more power. These boats are designed to go farther offshore, in nastier weather, and provide good rides in that nastier weather. Most are out of your price range.

Regular V- These boats can have anywhere between an 18 degree and 22 degree transom. Many boats fall into this category, and some put 21/22 deadrises in the deep v category. This category would include Parker, Boston Whaler, Key West, Cape Horn, Sea Pro, etc. Inside this category, you have solid fiberglass construction, and cored construction, where balsa wood is sandwiched between 2 "skins" of fiberglass. It can also be foam instead of balsa wood. The only one I can think of off the top of my head is sea pro. This is a way to cut weight, as to get the same strength with fiberglass you would have to use much more in solid fiberglas construction, over cored construction. Also the fiberglas and resin are more expensive than the core, so it cuts costs a bit. Some, like the parker, Key West, and Cape Horn are solid fiberglass.

Lastly you have semi-V boats. I am grouping a LOT of genre's in here, because most generally none of these boats are capable of going offshore at all. These generally run from a 9 degree deadrise to 14 degree deadrise. This category encompases a lot of boats, tons of manufacturers, some of the most recently common styles in the south(florida really) is flats/bay boats. These are good calm-water bay boats, generally can get into VERY shallow water, and are the most stabile fishing platforms for their size. They are generally lighter, just because there is not a lot of substance on the boat. some examples can be kenner, maverick, pathfinder, skeeter, aluminum shallow v boats, etc.

In terms of offshore capable, pretty much anything over 21' can be capable of going up to 20 miles under the right hands. In the hands of a beginner, we will rate them.

40+ miles wouldn't do it in anything but a Deep V boat. Occasional regular V can make the trip in calm weather, in good hands, keeping an eye on the weather.

10-40 miles, a regular v is just fine for this. It can handle most anything you would want to be out in once you go over 21'. Some of the shallower boats in this category can get in kinda shallow water considering the boat.

10- intercoastal, regular v and semi-v are good. something like a bay boat should be taken out VERY carefully once out of the intercoastal, but can be done in the right conditions. semi-v's can probably get into water under a foot deep, and if this is where a lot of your fishing takes place, great boat. Semi-v's will have the most stable(rock from side to side) of the 3 "types" of boats out there. Deep v's will have the worst(all for the same size boat).

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I will be sure to check them out. Any other thoughts on Parker or Triumph?

Not a fan of Triumph, but had a Parker 18' CC with a 115 2 stroke. I wish I still had it.

ChiefSurfer, thanks again man. I value the insights greatly. The more I read, the more I am liking the Parker. Looks like a 21 footer may be in my budget, or a 2-3 year old 23 footer perhaps. Lots to think about, but if I am picking up what you guys are putting down, the Parker is a very solid boat that should last for years to come. I am just a bit hung up on the used motor part, more so than the actual boat being used. Then again, I may not be giving enough credit to the durability of the newer outboards.

Which reminds me, roughly what do the motors cost?

Yamaha 150 hp 4 stroke

Yamaha 225 hp 4 stroke


Thanks guys,

Dan

If you can afford the 23 Parker, then go for it. You will never regret having a bigger boat when offshore.
Don't worry about the replacement price of motors when looking at a 2-3 yr old boat. Have the current motors checked out, and if healthy, they will last you many years. My 2004 Mercury 225 has 1500 hours on it and will probably give me another 1500 hours.

Wow. That does make me feel stupid. I been turning my nose up at motors with 300-400 hours:)


The more I read, the more I am thinking a 2-3 year old Parker 23' would make a better investment than a brand new 21 foot Triumph or Parker. Looks like the 2-3 year old 23' Parkers sell for around $30-35k and that is pretty much what nice 21 footer will run me with options and such. Anyone got any reasons why I shouldn't be looking into a 2-3 year old Parker? Again, sorry for being such a tard. I appreciate the help.


Dan

Let someone else take the hit on buying a new boat that will lose 20-30 percent in value as soon as it is titled as a used boat.
There should still be a warranty on the boat and the motors if it is 2-3 years old, so you should be covered. Buy the bigger used boat over the smaller new one. You will never regret that decision.
Outboards are like wimmin, they need to be run regularly with good quality lubricants and they will last you a long time.

I would definitely recommend a used boat since you are not sure how you will use it. If it doesn't fit your needs it will cost less to get out from under it. I bought a new triumph and love the no maintenance part of it. I also have a larger fiberglass boat thats much more upkeep. any boat that gets you on the water is a good one!;)

Generally speaking, what kind of upkeep is required on a fiberglass boat such as the Parker? I have no idea how much time will be required to keep it ship shape. ha ha. ship shape.

-Dan

There are tons of "optional equipment" when ordering and we are clueless. For a fishing boat and occasional family cruiser on the waterway, what optional items would you suggest. The only thing I know I want is the T-top. Don't really know what else is important to have.




If anyone feels like sharing, I would greatly benefit from some additional input on this subject. Right now, most the options I see on boat makers website's are pretty much foreign terms. I know I want a T-top, but there are all kinds of pad options, raw water sink/wash down options, etc... Just hoping someone might tell me the 3-4 "must haves". Either way, thanks for all the wonderful help I have gotten so far. I am slowly but surely developing a clear picture of the boat we need. Want. Whatever. Ha ha...


Dan

I have to throw Sea Hunt in your "check it out" list. South Carolina company, well built, great customer service and reputation. I live on the coast as well and 10-12 miles was my comfort level with the 21' Sea Hunt we had. Have a 24' foot now and combined with a few years of experience feel like 20 or 25 miles would be OK now. Aside from the obvious safety stuff (fire extingusher, life preservers, flares, etc.) I would say a good VHF radio with with DSC and an 8' antenna, a chartplotter/fish finder combo and a compass should do it. DSC by the way is a function on your radio that allows it to be connected directly to your GPS and after registering (which is free), in case of an emergency, you can press one button for 3 seconds and the Coast Guard will be instantly notified of your exact location as well as info on you, your boat, contact people, etc. Kind of a poor man's epirb. But you'll probably have to have an electronics guy do the hook up-- or at least I would. (Maybe part of a deal?)

If you're fishing, a live well and raw water (salt water) wash down are both pretty handy. If possible you want a pump for each, rather than the two functions sharing a single pump. Full curtains, or at least a 3 sided enclosure, will extend your season and comfort level tremendously. The boat we now have has tabs, which are great, but the other boat didn't and we seemed to survive OK. The cushions and bolsters make the boat much more comfortable for family and cruising guests.

Trailering is OK, but nothing beats being able to just jump in the boat and go. Although $2400 is a lot of fuel/electronics...

The Coast Guard Auxiliary in your area I'm sure has basic seamanship classes that youi and your Dad can sign up for and take together. And make sure to add "Chapman's Book of Seamanship and Small Boat Handling" to your library. Any West Marine type place will have it. And when I say it has everything in there you could possibly want to know, I mean everything. Pick one up and take a look and you'll see what I mean.

So bottom line, take a peek at Sea Hunt, watch out for the dreaded "2 foot itis" and you and your Dad get on the water.

Good luck

I will bite:)

What is "2 foot itis"?'


As for the Sea Hunt, I will check them out now, thanks for the suggestion. The Chapman book will be bought as you are the 2nd person to suggest it. I am starving for info. Thanks man.

-Dan

I cant believe nobody has shared this advice yet......


Dont buy one! Bum rides with friends, much cheaper, less hassle, less upkeep, less having to fix stuff after every trip........ plus once you buy one you wont stop!


I am on my 9th or 10th boat and everytime I sell one I am relieved, then I am sad that its gone so I go buy another one.

Probably cheaper to have a bad heroin and strip club habit.

2' itis...

List of my boats
18'
18
21'
23'
25
25
27'
32'
35'

I guess I have owned 9 boats. You can see the trend or itch to go bigger.

Dont buy one! Bum rides with friends, much cheaper, less hassle, less upkeep, less having to fix stuff after every trip........ plus once you buy one you wont stop!


.


Ha ha... If I had any friends with a saltwater boat, I would take your advice. Don't know a soul man.


The only reason I can even think about buying a boat is due to my dad's desire to own one with me. That is largely why I am doing so much research rather than just going out and buying a boat locally. It is his money and I need to respect his commitment (and trust in me) as we buy this boat. Lots of great info here sure has helped. Narrowing things down faster than I would have imagined. Keep it coming guys if you have the patience. The info shared here is extremely valuable to someone like me with no boating influences/friends/etc... Thanks!


-Dan

2' itis...

List of my boats
18'
18
21'
23'
25
25
27'
32'
35'

I guess I have owned 9 boats. You can see the trend or itch to go bigger.

Too late for me I guess. I had more or less decided on a new 21 footer, and already have decided to pursue a 2-3 year old 23 footer. Ha ha... 2 foot itis even gets us new guys...

Dan

If anyone feels like sharing, I would greatly benefit from some additional input on this subject. Right now, most the options I see on boat makers website's are pretty much foreign terms. I know I want a T-top, but there are all kinds of pad options, raw water sink/wash down options, etc... Just hoping someone might tell me the 3-4 "must haves". Either way, thanks for all the wonderful help I have gotten so far. I am slowly but surely developing a clear picture of the boat we need. Want. Whatever. Ha ha...


Dan

My top 5 in no particular order:


T-top
depth sounder/fish-finder combo
VHF radio
trim-tabs
live well IF you fish with live bait

a bucket works a heck of a lot better and is much cheaper then raw water wash down....

Thats great man, just the kind of basic insights I lack. Can anyone tell me exactly what a trim tab does? Seems desirable, plane, ride quality I assume. But don't know.

Imagine that, me not knowing:)

I will bite:)

What is "2 foot itis"?'


As for the Sea Hunt, I will check them out now, thanks for the suggestion. The Chapman book will be bought as you are the 2nd person to suggest it. I am starving for info. Thanks man.

-Dan

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_qlCAUZtia6Q/SIjMUU3WHJI/AAAAAAAAAYE/e3iEcDPdGsQ/s400/johnny5-need-input.png

Great info here. I agree buy an older 23' with newer power. The used market is hot now for buyers. Do a Craig's list search in your area for your criteria and see what you come up with.

Another boat to look at is Pro-Line.

Here is a boat in your price range that does it all and will last you a life time...now it has a lot of the options that i would not buy for my first boat but this is a heck of a deal on a boat that is head and shoulders above the brands you are considering.....and i am sure the asking price is negotiable

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2004/Albury-Brothers-23-2208327/Jupiter/United-States-Minor-Outlying-Islands

I will check them out David, thanks for the suggestion.

Well, you have opened up an entire new genre of boats, saying 2-3 yrs used is ok. Don't get me wrong, Parker is a great boat, BUT the one thing I don't like is that they are still made with wood. Not something necessarily bad, but concerns me a bit, considering wood's worst enemy is water. If you do go the 2-3 yrs used route, a few things to watch for. Make sure there has not been a lot of stuff installed, then un-installed. Those tiny screw-holes are death to wood on a boat. Also, just look around at the electronics. See if they were all installed by the dealer, or by the owner. If the owner, look around, look for every wire he installed and how he did it. If it "looks" sloppy, chances are the entire wire-job is sloppy, and incorrect wiring goes downhill VERY fast. If you see wire-nuts on any wiring, figure your "offer" price into replacing the entire wiring for that circuit. Always check the transom, look around the motor mounting, and at any hard turns, as these will generally show the first signs of undue stress. A lot(not sure if all) of the newer motors can be hooked to a computer in the shop, and print out a whole display on how the motor was run. It will show total hours, then it will have a breakdown going something like this:0-1000rpm=13 hrs, 1000-2000 rpm=25hrs, 2000-3000rpm=11 hours, 3000-4000rpm=50hrs, 4000-5000rpm=75hrs, 5000+rpm=10hrs. That will show you where the motor has been run. BASICALLY, you will see the lowest hours at WOT(Wide Open Throttle) and at idle. You might see a fair amount of hours at the 1000-2000 rpm, when trolling, or driving no-wakes out to the bay/ocean, but BY FAR you want to see the most hours between 3000 and 5000 rpm(if it has a 6000rpm WOT) or between 3000 and 4000 if you have a 5000WOT limit. Anything with a LOT of idle time, OR a LOT of WOT time, the engine has taken more abuse than most motors suggest, and could have a shortened life.

The only 2 downsides to parker that I see, and they can vary, is comfort for cruising, as most parkers I see are bare bones, like no cushioned seats, etc. AND a deep draft. A 21 probably has a draft of near 18", and that will limit you SOME when you get in skinny water on the intercoastal. I am not sure what your intercoastal is like. Up where I live, we have a bay, which is much like your intercoastal, and 99% of the bay is 4ft deep or less. I would not be happy with an 18" draft boat in those conditions, because there would be a lot I could not get to. My last boat drew 9" and new draws 12", could not go much deeper than that unless I were to own a 2nd bay style boat.

I also think sea hunt is a good boat, along with Mako, Seaswirl Striper, etc. While I think the 23 would be nice for going offshore, it would probably be too large for intercoastal travel. I think either a 21 or 22 would be perfect. Most companies build by 2' increments once reaching the 20' mark, and in my experience odd numbers are more common, so you will probably see more 21/23's than 22's, but they are out there.

5 things must have:
1-good wiring, can't stress enough how much this means to the boat when looking used.
2-t-top
3-GPS/FF combo, don't skimp
4-SW Washdown, HOWEVER, a lot of companies use centrifigul bilge pumps, THAT is about as good as spitting on the deck. Get a good vein, or diaphragm pump, with little 4 gallon tank to hold pressurized water, and it is worth it's weight in gold(IMO)
5-Trim tabs

I do not fish live bait, so livewell is not really my forte'.

Trim tabs are small stainless pads on the rear of the boat. They can be adjusted down or up. Whatever direction they go, your bow goes the opposite. So when they are down, it pushes the bow down and cuts through the waves. If adjusted UP, they will allow your motor trim to raise the bow. Also, by pushing one tab down and one tab up, it will trim the boat from port to starboard(side to side), and can help balance an overweight crew-member, or a cooler full of ice to one side.

Here is a boat in your price range that does it all and will last you a life time...now it has a lot of the options that i would not buy for my first boat but this is a heck of a deal on a boat that is head and shoulders above the brands you are considering.....and i am sure the asking price is negotiable

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2004/Albury-Brothers-23-2208327/Jupiter/United-States-Minor-Outlying-Islands


Looks nice, but I have never heard of them. Any thoughts on how Albury Brothers compares with Parker? What would make it a better boat? Thanks for any thoughts.

Thanks once again ChiefSurfer. The bit on RPMs and motors was most helpful. Stuff I never would have known otherwise. Thanks man.

-Dan

oh, and another you might want to look at, but almost impossible to find used, is a Jones Brothers. VERY clean, straightforward boat. It is most definitely bare bones, but good, quality construction.

It is my opinion, the more "compartments" generally the cheaper the construction of the boat. The "cheaper" boats use lots of cushions and hatches as selling points. Highly regarded QUALITY boats sell solely on their name. Just my $.02

Glad I have been able to help.

Looks nice, but I have never heard of them. Any thoughts on how Albury Brothers compares with Parker? What would make it a better boat? Thanks for any thoughts.

Just do a search on THT about Albury Brother boats...they are legendary Bahamian boat that have been built more or less the same with upgraded materials [wood now glass] for over 50 years. They are hand built and the fit and finish is superior, the ride is one of the best and they are built like tanks... very few used on the market for two reasons...they are not mass produced and more importantly owners very seldom part with them. I own one and it is the best boat i have ever owned......extremely dry ride, very soft ride etc....check out their website ....

http://www.alburybrothers.com/

also check out this page as well - http://www.alburybrothers.com/testimonials.html


http://www.thehulltruth.com/members/oceanluvr30-albums-albury-20-picture39723-img-0247-small.jpg

Buying 1st saltwater boat..........

What is the difference between a "saltwater boat" and a "boat"? ;?

Thanks once again ChiefSurfer. The bit on RPMs and motors was most helpful. Stuff I never would have known otherwise. Thanks man.

-Dan

Gotta agree with Dan on this one. I didn't know that either. Pretty cool stuff. Other question would be - How do you talk a guy into letting you drag his boat to a shop to get it tested?

Also, I posted a topic similar to this one a few days ago and after researching all of the boats suggested, I found I could get a better bang (or boat) for my buck by going with Sea Hunt. Though, i've not actually looked at one yet... no dealers in my area.. will have to plan a trip!

Just wanted to add my $.02 to take a look at the Keywest CC's. They are local to you and area really well made boat paired with Yamaha power. I've been pretty impressed by the ones that I've been on as far as fit and finish.

flash and dan, this is available on newer motors. I don't know how far back it goes that you can get this, but I know the newer ones can do this. Also, I think it is like a $15 thing for the mechanic to do, and takes 3 minutes. If there is a certified mechanic nearby, I don't know any seller that would not allow you to do this. If it is a very long trip to the mechanic, you can buy the boat with a condition in the contract/bill of sale, that the entire sale is void if the report comes back a certain way. As a seller, I would agree to this, so long as there were a time-limit to this. Like you couldn't buy the boat from me, then like 3 weeks later come back and say "hey, you ran it WOT all the time". Oh well, that was 3 weeks ago, should have made time. I would think 7 days would be acceptable for a time-limit on this type of clause. Maybe somebody here can tell you what motors, and what years have this capacity, so you don't go around chasing your tail on it.

....fit and finish.

I'm hijacking this thread...

I've heard "Fit and Finish" used quite a bit browsing around the forum.. I have a geuss as to what it means, but can anyone clarify? Is fit and finish a matter of opinion or is it something tangible?

Thanks!

I will bite:)

What is "2 foot itis"?'


As for the Sea Hunt, I will check them out now, thanks for the suggestion. The Chapman book will be bought as you are the 2nd person to suggest it. I am starving for info. Thanks man.

-Dan



"2 foot itis" is the dreaded disease that almost all boaters get. As soon as you get used to a boat, you want one 2 feet longer. If you're starving for info, "Chapman's" will cure your hunger for awhile.

I'm hijacking this thread...

I've heard "Fit and Finish" used quite a bit browsing around the forum.. I have a geuss as to what it means, but can anyone clarify? Is fit and finish a matter of opinion or is it something tangible?

Thanks!

Generally refers to the level of quality to which a boat is made. I am not sure if there is a standard by which a boat is judged to have a high quality of 'FNF' but certainly a well made boat that meets this test stands out from others by the quality of the components, smoothness of the fiberglass, wiring, all doors and drawers are made to close tolerances, areas that are not visible to the eye are still finished off, etc, etc. I don't think it is necessarily a matter of how much the boat costs, because we have all seen expensive boats that shake, rattle and roll and things fall off of them or fail much sooner then they should.

Generally refers to the level of quality to which a boat is made. I am not sure if there is a standard by which a boat is judged to have a high quality of 'FNF' but certainly a well made boat that meets this test stands out from others by the quality of the components, smoothness of the fiberglass, wiring, all doors and drawers are made to close tolerances, areas that are not visible to the eye are still finished off, etc, etc. I don't think it is necessarily a matter of how much the boat costs, because we have all seen expensive boats that shake, rattle and roll and things fall off of them or fail much sooner then they should.

Cool - Thanks..

Okay, you guys can have the tread back ;)

fit and finish means how well "designed" the boat is. Like my old wellcraft has horrible fit and finish because in the front stepped area, there are 2 hatches, but you can only open one at a time. Using a simple twist-locking device to hold a door shut, rather than using something more secure. Having a hatch ONLY accessable with a seat moved out of the way is bad fit and finish. Fit and finish can ALSO refer to the quality of hardware used. It can be chrome-plated, which is bad. If it is solid 316 stainless, that is good. Those types of things.

http://www.dusky.com/boats/dus203.html

Family owned, custom built boat made the way YOU want it, well within your budget.

Dan,
It sounds like you might prefer a NC made boat, and several fine ones have been mentioned including Parker and Maycraft. Parker has great resale, and Maycraft is a great value. But I would like to recommend you seriously look at the Kencraft Sea king 210 CC, made in Wilson, NC. One of the nicest 20 footers. I agree with looking at Sea Hunt, it is a fine entry level choice that is really better than entry level. Pioneer is another brand that ranks in the same league. If you want to go more upscale, and have a boat that will have a better ride in the rough stuff, consider a Bluewater 20 footer, made in FL.

Buy used. Rarely do first-time buyers pick a boat that serves their purposes once they gain experience. With a used boat you can more easily change boats later on if you want.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the input. As of now, I am pretty interested in a 21-23' Parker, but I am hearing of lots of good boats and its good to have options. However, it does muddy the water a bit. Lots of choices. A double edged sword of sorts.


-Dan

Yes dan, the especially hard thing you did is say 2-3 yrs old is acceptable. That opened a HUGE can of worms, as there are a LOT of nice boats 2-3 yrs old within your price range.

Grady white could be an option for you. Based in Greenville, NC - Used

Pioneer 197 best 20 footer out there ive been really happy with mine. Fish out of Hatteras when i can. very dry and a great ride