The Boating Forum - Hydraulic Steering Question...

I've run lots of boats with hydraulic steering, but the current one has me baffled.

It's a SeaStar system, single engine and all hardware seems correct.

The steering seems oddly stiff and may be from a smaller wheel used by the manufacturer since a "power ball" is standard on the tilt wheel.

I've "burped" the system properly using a jug of proper oil and gone hard over in each direction hard enough to actually release the pressure valve to force all air as the book says and I got one bubble about an inch long up the tube and some fine bubbles, but that's it.

In addition to being stiff there is a couple inches of play in the wheel and I don't remember that from prior hydraulic systems. I haven't bled the system at the stern but was hoping not too since it can be a mess and requires two people.

Wouldn't the "burping" gotten rid of all the air and make bleeding unnecessary?

The boat is new with about 35 hours on it and the steering is no better or worse than the first time I stepped aboard. It doesn't feel right to me nor has it felt right to other boat owners who have been with me and taken the helm.

The dealer will adjust it I'm sure, but its an hour and a half away and if its an easy fix I'd rather do it myself just for the convenience.

There is no sign of leaking fluid anywhere.

Thanks in advance!

The steering seems oddly stiff and may be from a smaller wheel used by the manufacturer since a "power ball" is standard on the tilt wheel.
Yes, a smaller diameter wheel will increase the force one needs to turn the wheel. However, maybe the OB steering tube needs greasing. Try this, remove the steering ram from the OB steering arm and try each one independently of each other. There are zirk fittings on the OB to lube the steering tube. I find heating the area first with a hair dryer or heatgun helps immensely on breaking down any old grease. Add new grease until you see it flow out somewhere ...

I've "burped" the system properly ... and gone hard over in each direction ... there is a couple inches of play ... haven't bled the system at the stern.
I'd do that, i.e., bleed it at the stern, though, yes, it can be a mess, a pain, and requires two people.

Wouldn't the "burping" gotten rid of all the air and make bleeding unnecessary?
Not in my experience. Yes, will get rid of air at front of run, but bubbles can stay trapped, adjacent to fittings, in the rear and when oil moves down the line it just "squeezes" by it. You have nothing to lose by bleeding it properly ... just my opine ...

Please let us know how you make out, as it helps keep the archives complete.

Buy a plastic funnel, attach a plastic tube to the bottom and attach a 1/4" plastic pipe fitting to the end of it. Attach the pipe fitting to the Seastar helm pump and hang the funnel above the helm pump. Run a hose from the ram fitting into the funnel. You can now recirculate your steering fluid and bleed your system by yourself. Keeps the mess to a minimum, too.

It's leaking! Even though you can't see it, it's leaking and you will never get the air bled out properly until you find and fix the leak. I have the same problem myself, right now and found a small leak by running my finger around the piston "caps" and never saw it. I'm no expert, but, it should steer very easily, with no play, if there isn't a problem. Whe I encountered the same problems on the Parker, the mechanic replaced one of the caps once and the seal under the wheel itself, bled the system and it worked perfectly from then on. I couldn't see the leaks then either. Just like in fuel systems, small pin hole sized leaks will drive you crazy!