Shipyard Isl. Marine Engine Parts - winterization & water in lower unit/hub area

Andy,

One slightly different question about winterization.

I know the Yamaha's will free drain when tilted downward, but I have a slight problem. My 2001 HPDI Z200TXRZ (6G6 X) 2 stroke is on a boat that is trailer stored when not in use. The trailer sits low to the ground and I cannot fully tilt down the motor when on the trailer. It's not even close to fully vertical.

My question is if I tilt it down as far as possible to drain the water out of the motor, there will still be some left or more may collect from rain over the winter in the prop hub and shaft exhaust area of the lower unit. Some of the local's say don't worry about it as it will not be a problem in freezing weather as it can push out through the hub as it freezes. They say to just leave it at the transport tilt level on the trailer (see photo below) and not worry about it.

Not finding anything in the manual on this, I wanted to run it by you.

Other than my water question here is what I was going to do this winter as this is the first year I have owned this particular boat (have used this method on other boat with smaller engine where tilting vertical on the trailer was not an issue).

I'm changing the lower unit oil to check for intrusion of water as I know this can be a huge problem. Fuel is alway's mixed with marine stabil and seafoam when put in tank. The last two fills were mixed at the stabil "storage" ratio as I knew times of low use were coming. Never have a trace of soot on the hub with this mix. I will likely use the boat at least once a month over the winter as we often have mild spells and I can sneak in a fishing trip. If not, I can attach flush "ears" and run it for 15-20 minutes just to keep things moving through the passages. I keep all 6 batteries fully charged with two 3 bank Dual Pro chargers and check water levels. Pull & clean washdown pump filter and run pump to purge lines & pump head of remaining water. Boat & engine head stay under a heavy acrylic cover between trips which keeps inside totally dry in rain, but has vents and open area over the enclosed transom for air flow. So other than my freezing concerns in the hub area I think everything else is covered.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd4/Lurkin_in_the_Shadows/IMG_2075smaller.jpg

dward,

If you are going to run the engine occasionally thru the winter, then stabilizing the fuel and changing the gear lube is all you really need to do.

As far as any residual water, take some -100 bio-degradable anti-freeze and dump a little bit down the prop hub. And take the flush attachment off the engine and drain the little remaining water from the low section of that hose.

Andy

dward,

If you are going to run the engine occasionally thru the winter, then stabilizing the fuel and changing the gear lube is all you really need to do.

As far as any residual water, take some -100 bio-degradable anti-freeze and dump a little bit down the prop hub. And take the flush attachment off the engine and drain the little remaining water from the low section of that hose.

Andy

Thanks

I had not thought of dumping some RV anti-freeze in there. I have some already that I use with the camper. I may see if I can find a tupperwear or other plastic container I can bungie over the prop hub after using anti-freeze. That should keep any new water out of the hub area and I could leave it tilted up then.

If the hub is covered there in no other way for rain water to sneak inside the housing is there?

I changed the gear lube last night, no signs of water intrusion.

Pull the trailer up onto blocks, planks or ramps to get clearance for the motor to be vertical. Another option is to dig a hole and let the skeg drop down into it.

If the hub and area where the prop sits up against the gearcase are covered, water can not get in.

Andy

Pull the trailer up onto blocks, planks or ramps to get clearance for the motor to be vertical. Another option is to dig a hole and let the skeg drop down into it.

Dug a hole last night as it was a chance of a freeze and I didn't want to gamble on damage. I think my ultimate answer is to get a hydraulic jack plate and solve the issue once and for all.

Looking at the Atlas model as it has a 12" lift range, but I hate to spend $1,200. I can recoup some of the money if I sell the manual 8" model I now have, but I would rather put the money into a side imaging finder.

Now what was it the old guy told me about a boat being a hole in the water into which you pour money?

Andy, does Shipyard Island Marine have the Atlas jack plates? If so can you send me a quote on the 8" setback model with white gauge shipped to zip 30252.

Thanks