The Boating Forum - trailer question

Hi guy's I have a Magic Tilt 1920ALS trailer under my flats boat, sometimes I need to launch and retrieve the boat in very shallow water where there is no incline to aid retrieval.

What has happened is the I-beam has started cracking on both sides of the trailer, I don't blame the trailer for this but myself for using it in such a fashion.

Question do you think that if I can undo the front bolts of the carpet bunks and replace it with a stainless steel pin (removable when launch and retrieve), I would then back off the rear bolt so that the bunk can lift changing the angle. Not sure if you are familiar with break back style trailers but do you think I can achieve the same result.

The desired result would be that when I retrieve the boat from a near flat surface the bunks would rise and allow the boat to glide onto the bunks, when the boat is winched past the center of gravity the bunk and boat would lower into the normal position I then would winch all the way to the winch post.

Not sure if I explained it properly but I can go into greater detail.

Anyway do you think it will work??

Baystalker - 11/2/2007 8:52 AM

Hi guy's I have a Magic Tilt 1920ALS trailer under my flats boat, sometimes I need to launch and retrieve the boat in very shallow water where there is no incline to aid retrieval.

What has happened is the I-beam has started cracking on both sides of the trailer, I don't blame the trailer for this but myself for using it in such a fashion.

Question do you think that if I can undo the front bolts of the carpet bunks and replace it with a stainless steel pin (removable when launch and retrieve), I would then back off the rear bolt so that the bunk can lift changing the angle. Not sure if you are familiar with break back style trailers but do you think I can achieve the same result.

The desired result would be that when I retrieve the boat from a near flat surface the bunks would rise and allow the boat to glide onto the bunks, when the boat is winched past the center of gravity the bunk and boat would lower into the normal position I then would winch all the way to the winch post.

Not sure if I explained it properly but I can go into greater detail.

Anyway do you think it will work??

If the I beams are cracking, you need to have the trailer repaired or replace it. If the trailer is properly sized for the boat, there is no way you could crack the I beams by loading the boat.

I don't believe you can modify it to avoid replacing the I beams (or having them welded by a pro), and I don't believe you should have to modify the design to load your boat.

Perhaps a roller trailer would be better suited for your conditions.

I'd have to agree that your loading technique has nothing to do with your cracked I beam problems. I would call the manufacturer and get their take on that problem.

As for your other problem, kinda funny you have a Magic Tilt trailer that doesn't tilt! Seems to me you could cut a wedge shape into the bunks to give you a better starting point to load your boat.

Thanks for that, yes I did think about the roller trailer, but then I looked at the the way the boat sits on the trailer and the keel does not come in contact with the trailer or skid pads(by design I would imagine). The reason why the I-beams are cracking is because the trailer is flexing (all the weight is on the first keel skid) when retrieving so the I beams try and flex in wards. I do intend on having the the crack professionally welded or even plated, but I was just trying to think up a way of "bettering" the system. The rest of the trailer is perfect and I love it.

Sorry forgot to mention that its an alloy trailer, if it were steel I-beam I defiantly would not expect it to flex.

Long Trailer Manufacturing in NC still makes excellent tilting trailers. I use one under my 18' Lowe and my 21' Whaler. With one of these trailers, you can pick your boat up off of the ground. Unfortunately, they are galvanized trailers. I was unsuccessful finding an all aluminum in a tilt style.

Thanks petrel, as a tilt trailer user do you think my idea would work utilizing the tilting bunk idea?

I'm not sure. I'm no engineer (but I am sure a dozen will read this) but I think your pivot point will be so far aft that it would take a great deal of muscle to begin the tilting process. You'd basically have to lift the entire boat (bow first) to begin the tilt, then once the boat began to move past the pivot point, it would start to take some load off of you. The tilt trailers I have and have used all pivot behind where the tongue meets the "cradle", and well forward of the trailer axles. Also, remember if you do get it tilted and sliding, you will need a good way to stop it. Depending on how slick your bunks are or how good your rollers are, she can build up a lot of speed coming off of there.

petrel - 11/2/2007 11:07 AM

Long Trailer Manufacturing in NC still makes excellent tilting trailers. I use one under my 18' Lowe and my 21' Whaler. With one of these trailers, you can pick your boat up off of the ground. Unfortunately, they are galvanized trailers. I was unsuccessful finding an all aluminum in a tilt style.

Why would that make a difference? The weight?

The bunks are slick because I sprayed the carpet with silicon spray, and when its fresh she really takes off. I had imagined that when the boat was on the downward pivot and the bunks were coming into the trailering position, I had envisaged some heavy duty rubber stops similar to that used on auto engine mounts or the bump stops like used in the rear end of cars or trucks. If it does work it would be a very simple solution and very little required by way of parts etc.