SportFishing and Charters Forum - Which knot for heavy mono?

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View Full Version : Which knot for heavy mono?

09-16-2007, 10:47 PM
Which knot should I use to attach 200+ lb. mono leader to a 300# snap swivel?


2005 SeaCraft
09-16-2007, 10:59 PM

09-16-2007, 11:01 PM
crimps. If it were to a hook I've had great success with a "nail knot" but no higher than 200 lb., But honestly at that lb test or higher an aluminum crimp (Hi Seas, Jinkai, etc.) with a nico-press crimper has had the best success rate for me. I use a small piece of clear wire insulation as chafe gear and pull tight, the right mm crimp - the key is in a high quality press.

09-16-2007, 11:05 PM
Thanks guys. A crimp completely slipped my mind. Thanks.

09-17-2007, 04:10 AM
200? What brand. I've palomared softer 200 that would slip a crimp. Stiff ones work well with flemish and crimp. Use what you think works best for you.

09-18-2007, 06:32 PM
I have used a Uni-Knot on heavy mono to 250# for a long time. Can't remember one breaking or slipping. I use this on barrel swivels or trolling leads for AJs and Grouper.

If you are using a snap swivel, a surgeon's loop should work with 200# mono.

A crimped loop is usually better, but knots still work with 200# line.

09-18-2007, 06:39 PM
Australian Plait, offshore swivel knot to the snap swivel...if you want to knot it instead of crimp.

Captain Fred Archer
09-18-2007, 08:11 PM
In my book (literally), over 50#, swage it.

There is a huge difference between crimps and crimping and swages and swaging. Crimps are for cable, swages are for mono.

Some might say, "big deal", but it is. Crimping pinches and weakens mono. Swaging with the right size swage merely compresses the swage "tube" 360 degrees around the mono, using friction and pressure to hold.

Many use the word "crimp" in place of "swage". No problem for them because no matter what they call it, they are doing it right, but potentially a big problem for an inexperienced rigger who could wind up crimping mono and breaking connections because of it.

Second picture, drawing of a swaged hook, should have a ball of mono melted on the tag end. You pull about 6" out of the swage, melt it, cool it with saliva on a finger, then pull it into the swage and swage it. The books have very explicit instructions and pictures of this, but I can't find them at the moment.

09-18-2007, 08:25 PM
I've never had a palomar fail in 100-500 lb, but have had a handfull of swaged/crimped fail. All in all, though, you can swage/cimp in a fraction of the time you can run a proper palomar. It's a good knot to know, however, should you lose yer crimp/swage tool or be short of the right sized sleeves...


09-18-2007, 08:57 PM
Have you tried the palomar with 200#+? I haven't even attempted it but I would think that it would be difficult to accomplish...What's your take?

Greg Manning
09-18-2007, 09:02 PM
Grouper knot....but I have never used it past 130# test. I would probably crimp that big.

09-18-2007, 09:20 PM
Guys, I appreciate all your input. I crimped it last night. Crimping was the orignal plan, but I had a senior moment (although I'm in my early 20s).

2005 SeaCraft
09-18-2007, 09:33 PM
Capt. Fred is correct with the terminology...Swage / Crimp. The difference I pay attention to is making sure the ends of the "Swag" sleeve is flaired at both ends, swaged/crimped in the middle. With cable, I crimp the ends of the sleeve and leave a slight hump in the middle. How ' bout Capt., you agree?

I use the Palomar knot quite a bit...never been able to get it to tie correctly with heavy mono/floro. Just might try a Bowline in that case...????

Captain Fred Archer
09-19-2007, 03:01 AM
No middle hump for me. All of my swaging, or at least the vast majority of it, is done on a bench swager where the swaging "chips" are the right length for one swage stroke that covers the entire length of the swage, but leaves both ends flared, so that they can't cut mono. It might have happened long ago, but I do not remember a single case of a swage failing, either on my boat, or among the very large number of swaged lures that we sell.

Again, so that it is clear for those unfamiliar with pro rigging, there is crimping and there is swaging, but there is no such thing as "crimping/swaging". I would make a strong guess that anyone who has had a swage fail was either crimping and not swaging, or was using the wrong swage or tool hole size. Use the right size swage and tool setting and a swaged connection is incredibly strong. If they are failing on you, you are doing something wrong.

Don't forget to melt the ball on the tag end before pulling the tag up, with the ball resting on lure/bait end of the swage, then swage it.

sea draggin
09-22-2007, 11:31 PM
Captain Fred Archer - 9/18/2007 8:11 PM

In my book (literally), over 50#, swage it.

Wow, I would have never thought you would get tired of plugging the stuff you have for sale. :spammer:

09-22-2007, 11:56 PM
I crimp everything over 150#

09-23-2007, 12:41 AM
Oops, I meant to say swage. I also use a bench mounted "swager" when time allows, But I also have a portable one made by Nico-Press (big $)

09-23-2007, 01:23 AM
Please boys lets expand our horizons. In Al. its a spapper knot, in Tx. it's a triple barrel, or to an afficiaknoto(sorry) it is a 3 turn uni. SORRY THERE ARE MORE, San Diego is great, olbviously the above mentioned uni, Texas's own double barrel for 200+ only, and yes a braaid works well on any line as well as the line is at a 90. The plait or braid is not what he was inquiring about, unless I was mistaken he was grouper or aj fishing for which I suggest a knot. It really does not matter to me, but Knot Knowing Knots(sorry) is forgivable, but not caring is not Knot....

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