1987 Johnson 225 problem - The Hull Truth

Ray Zor · 06-03-2009, 06:33 AM

After a long day out today, got back to boat ramp. Tied off boat, backed trailer down. Got in boat, fired up fine. Backed away from ramp dock in reverse, put in forward and gunned it to square up to trailer, engine coughed, died. Hit key, sputterered. Squeezed fuel bulb a few times. Engine fired, idled in gear fine. As soon as I hit the throttle, bogged out and died. Would not start. Engine spinning fast, no start. Fellow boater at ramp pushed me over to dock and I loaded boat manually.
I'll tear into it tomorrow.
If all the normal stuff checks out, Spark, fuel (no water in fuel), ect.. I am considering checking flywheel woodruf for possible shearing.
This engine has basically been totally gone through over the past 5 years and has been absolutely flawless. Don't ask me about fuel burn. This puppy really sucks down the juice!
Any ideas before I pull flywheel off?

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1987 Biddison 2200

A1 Outboard · 06-04-2009, 07:16 AM

These engines normally do not have problems with flywheel keys shearing. A quick check is to put a timing light on #1 cylinder, crank the engine, snd see if the timing marks are at TDC or close. This check will also tell you if you have spark. If the engine has the original VRO pump that could be the problem. Check the fuel pressure, it should be 3-5 psi, and will climb and then drop back as the engine runs.

Ray Zor · 06-04-2009, 09:06 AM

Thanks. #1 cyl is top right facing stern of boat, correct?
Since I pre-mix, would a non-VRO electric fuel pump suffice?
If so, I wouldn't need primer bulb?
A replacement VRO is $300-$400.

A1 Outboard · 06-05-2009, 07:12 AM

Number 1 is always the top cylinder. An electric pump will work if it is a marine sealed unit. DO NOT use a pump designed for automotive use. The USCG does not like pressurized lines in the hull because of the danger of fuel leaks into the bilge. Remember if you make this modification YOU are assuming liability. If you have a problem the manufacturer of the engine and maybe you insurance company will not be there for you. Gasoline in the bilge is a bomb waiting to explode. I would not make this modification if I owned the boat. Bombardier offers a fuel pump for commercial engines that does not have the oil section attached. A good parts person should be able to order one for you.

Ray Zor · 06-05-2009, 07:26 AM

Thanks A1.
Great point on the elect pump.If I went that route I would mount it under engine cowling, not bilge. Anyhow, I think I'll steer away from that one. Just seems more like a rig.
I think there is a check valve inside VRO pump that seals fuel inlet, thus allowing a vacuum to be pulled on bulb when priming. Once system is primed, works fine.
Do you know if there is a check valve and do you offer rebuild kits?

A1 Outboard · 06-06-2009, 07:36 AM

I think the check valve you speak of is in the primer bulb. There used to be rebuild kits for VRO pumops but when the pumps began to be updated they were discontinued. The new pump you buy today is very differant from the original pump.