Evinrude DI Initial setup - The Hull Truth

MarkV_Deep6 · 09-16-2008, 07:24 PM

Hi,

I am riggng up a 250 Evinrude DI. No problems with the engine, it was running when removed from the sellers boat. I just want to be sure I use thecorrect, or suggested process for initial start up. Is there anything to besure of like on a VRO engine...oil supply etc. I also haveabout 25 gallons of premix leftover. Should I be sure to drain the fuel and start over, orjust dilute it down.It's a 200 gal tank.

Thanks for any info.

A1 Outboard · 09-16-2008, 08:53 PM

I hope you have either the factory rigging manual or at least the factory service manual.

If you have your own oil tank from a previous motor, it should be drained and flushed and a new filter installed. Make sure it has the rubber oil line and not the smooth vinyl line that gets brittle. You know it needs an oil return line also, right?

What engine was on their previously and why is it being replaced. If it "blew up" then you have to find out why or the DI motor may have the same fate if it was an oil tank related issue or a boat fuel plumbing issue. Those problems are more common than you think.

The oil system has to be bled completely and primed as soon as the motor starts.

Has the motor been checked over by a trained tech and did you get the engine's EMM printout so you can check it's history or any problems.

The Evinrude (you don't say what year) is a high tech motor and has to be set up correctly, plus the shift and throttle cable adjustments are super critical, especially certain years.

It is best to have a trained tech check over your rigging, bleed the oil system, and perform the initial start up and monitor the engine with a laptop. He should also run a bubble and vacuum test on the fuel system and check the motor for the correct WOT rpm.

You can fill your gas tank to dilute the pre-mixed fuel as long as it is fresh and not varnish smelling or laced with dirt or water.

Good luck but do things right the first time or you will have an expensive nightmare on your hands.

MarkV_Deep6 · 09-17-2008, 07:11 AM

The old engine was just tired, and I wanted better fuel economy, This was a very resonable deal for a 2002 DI. The engine was checked out just prior to removal, I have all the print outs. Just under 500 hours. There were no problems stored on the print out and compression is very close on all six. (Of course a good mech can clear the codes.)
I feel comfortable performing any required setup. I would think the oil system needs to be bleed prior to startup. That's the type of info I need. I'm a big believer in OEM manuals but locating them for the newer DI's is a little hard.
I'm gathering all the info I can get while waiting on the Jack Plate. The transom of my boat was cut specifically for the V8 27" shaft and the 30" shaft of the DI need to be raised about 2" higher than is possible without it.

Putting another 25 gallons will take it to about 100 to 1 mix: think that's enough? I never fill up. 400.00 for half a tank is about as much as I want to put in at any given time. The existing gas is fresh, and if need be can be used in the truck and yard equipment.

MarkV_Deep6 · 09-18-2008, 06:13 AM

Thanks for that FUD answer and all the help!

Cheers

A1 Outboard · 09-18-2008, 06:42 AM

>

Go to www.shop.evinrude.com, click on literature and type in the complete model number of your motor. You will then see the service manual, owners manual, etc. that you can order direct.

A1 Outboard · 09-18-2008, 04:39 PM

[quote]MarkV_Deep6 - 9/18/2008 8:13 AM

Thanks for that FUD answer... [

/QUOTE]

The answer was not meant for Fear, Uncertainty, or Doubt.

When you see ruined engines and have to listen to "heart-broken" customers day after day because they or their neighbor/brother-in-law/friend thought they knew how to adjust, rig a FICHT, 4-stroke, Optimax,or E-TEC outboard, but ended up having expensive repairs instead, you try to help the best you can. Today's high tech motors are not exactly plug and play, procedures and setup adjustments are critical. That is why more and more outboard companies will not allow in-the-box motorsales, but require a signed pre-delivery setup checklist from the dealer to register the warranty.

You wouldn't believe the number of 4-strokes that get started up without oil in them, scored pistons on DFI motors because the oil lines were not primed or bled, and damaged clutch dogs and worn gears from improper shift cable adjustments. Of course, we see "blown" regulators and sometimesburned wiring from electrical screwups or reverse polarity, and melted water pump impellers are a very common occurance. Some do-it-yourselfers are very ingenious when it comes to making adapters to fit return oil lines onto oilinlet fittingsand making the oil feed lines fit the larger return fittings. Then they come in after running the motor time after time trying to find out why the NO OIL alarm keeps coming on.

Anyway, I'll step down from my soap box and wish you the best, just don't try to second guess the engineers, follow the instructions to the letter, and you'll be enjoying your rig for a long time to come.